Dogging in vs self feeding - Tooth length too! The truth of it.

[Wilhelm]

Husky X Cut , C-83 is very good quality

 

[Squareground3691]

View attachment 408741

Good chip clearance,

 

[Wilhelm]

Good chip clearance,

I have to upload a video of it to the Tube, it is a fast chain on my PS-550 in turkey oak.

One cutter bent up, most likely snagging a knot.
I just ground it off.
This chain is still going strong.
New X-Cut loop is ready to take over duty.

 

[Philbert]

I have a question in relation to hard wood as in this thread.......

Last summer I was finishing splitting about 8 +(IIRC) cords and got tired of splitting crotches and knots to a stringy mis-shapen blob of wood.

Went through several saw rotations fer the heck of it and ended staying with three Poulan 5020's that I changed to .325 NK 18" bars......

The point of this being,.....several times noodling crotchy rounds down,....The chain would stop dead, at full song, and stall engine....like I hit a block of steel. VIOLENT!

Seriously concerning, knowing the weak crank at clutch end.....

Nothing found in the wood and no damage to chain. Just super hard, dense oak knots that could be polished to look like a chunk of bowling ball.

Have you ever experienced this?

That’s how chaps work: they stall out momentum. No rotation; no spark generated; motor stops.

Higher torque saw, or less aggressive cutter profile, might have bounced, or kept going ?

Philbert

 

[IffykidMn]

That’s how chaps work: they stall out momentum. No rotation; no spark generated; motor stops.

Higher torque saw, or less aggressive cutter profile, might have bounced, or kept going ?

Philbert

Unless the chap material wound up in the clutch drum wouldn't the clutch just disengage and allow the saw to keep running?

 

[Wilhelm]

Unless the chap material wound up in the clutch drum wouldn't the clutch just disengage and allow the saw to keep running?

That is not how a centrifugal clutch works!
The engine can NOT keep turning max rpm if the clutch drum is stalled.
Or, it shouldn't be able to.

If it does Your clutch is fubared and You will overheat EVERYTHING on the engines clutch side in no time!

Hence the design of a chainsaws inertia brake, it stalls the drum and in doing so stalls the engine.

 

[Philbert]

Protective fibers (or string!) can also jam up bar grooves, nose sprockets, etc.

This was from a safety demo we did at a GTG, several years back. That’s all it took!



Philbert

 

[IffykidMn]

That is not how a centrifugal clutch works!
The engine can NOT keep turning max rpm if the clutch drum is stalled.
Or, it shouldn't be able to.

If it does Your clutch is fubared and You will overheat EVERYTHING on the engines clutch side in no time!

Hence the design of a chainsaws inertia brake, it stalls the drum and in doing so stalls the engine.

I think my confusion came from my own reading comprehension or lack thereof.

When it was stated stalling the motor and I was thinking killing the motor as in the motor died out like letting the clutch out too quickly in a manual transmission vehicle or not downshifting soon enough.

 

[Wilhelm]

I think my confusion came from my own reading comprehension or lack thereof.

When it was stated stalling the motor and I was thinking killing the motor as in the motor died out like letting the clutch out too quickly in a manual transmission vehicle or not downshifting soon enough.

Well, on a centrifugal clutch quite often the sudden decrease in engine rpm when the clutch drum gets stalled will flood the engine and stall it out too.
In my book still better than having the engine try keep turning and therefore frying things.

A manual transmission clutch has no "slip" properties when fully engaged unless the clutch is already defective, as such yes too high gear selected or insufficient throttle applied and You will stall the engine in a fraction of a second.

Hope You have a great weekend/Sunday!

 

[davidwyby]

The dead dry half is like 5 times harder to chop…same for the saw. 6lb Elwell

 

[Squish9]

There's some hate towards the Oregon stuff in here but thier 27X, 404 semi is a good compromise in dry hardwood. I did some testing with it late last year and it cuts about 8% slower than 46RS intially.

Half a tank a tank in and it's ahead by a lot. If you are testing cutting speed for this type of wood, don't judge it by how fast it cuts just after sharpening or out the box. Try timing it halfway through or after a tank of fuel and see how it holds up. It's no good being fast for 1 or 2 cuts when you have 6 hours of cutting ahead of you.

 

[Maintenance Chief]

There's some hate towards the Oregon stuff in here but thier 27X, 404 semi is a good compromise in dry hardwood. I did some testing with it late last year and it cuts about 8% slower than 46RS intially.

Half a tank a tank in and it's ahead by a lot. If you are testing cutting speed for this type of wood, don't judge it by how fast it cuts just after sharpening or out the box. Try timing it halfway through or after a tank of fuel and see how it holds up. It's no good being fast for 1 or 2 cuts when you have 6 hours of cutting ahead of you.

I use 27 for a lot of dirty stuff.

 

[Squish9]

I use 27 for a lot of dirty stuff.

This is some old Dolmar branded 27X and how I file it. 85 degree side plate, 60 degrees on the top plate cutting angle and 30 over the top.

Adding hook from here just adds more chatter when cutting and more filing off the damage on the corner when sharpening.

 

[Wilhelm]

24" 84DL 3/8" full comp full chisel round ground Windsor loop, self feeds well and cuts fast dogged in.
Used this loop yesterday, bucked up a larger OD cherry trunk and a turkey oak round.
No cutters damaged nor missing yet.
This is a work chain on my secondary Dolmar PS-7900, so there is a good pull on it.

 

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

Each time I take out my 660, I’m less and less impressed with the power, even with a 25” bar. I’m considering porting it. I know literally nothing about porting for more torque in hardwoods - I have lots of learning to do. But once it’s done I’ll report back with some more videos.

 

[ferris]

Each time I take out my 660, I’m less and less impressed with the power, even with a 25” bar. I’m considering porting it. I know literally nothing about porting for more torque in hardwoods - I have lots of learning to do. But once it’s done I’ll report back with some more videos.

Is it bone stock?
Try this
1.Open up the muffler even when it is a DP already
2. timing advance
3. some work on the carb

When it is still not enough, try porting

 

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

Is it bone stock?
Try this
1.Open up the muffler even when it is a DP already
2. timing advance
3. some work on the carb

When it is still not enough, try porting

Thanks mate, yes it’s stock. How much would you advance the timing?

 

[davidwyby]

Thanks mate, yes it’s stock. How much would you advance the timing?

Try a base gasket delete. Porting almost always increases RPM, you just want grunt.

 

[Gearshifter]

I had a chinesse 660 i built with a max flo , duel port muffler , and the baffle gutted . It was a beast . Would demolish bluegum with a 25" bar .

It smashs the stock 661 I have but once I put the max flo and bark box on its slightly better .

 

[davidwyby]

@Vintage Engine Repairs can you get your hands on another to run it against? I think maybe it’s sick.