High Quality Chainsaw Bars Husqvarna Toys Hockfire Saws

cub cadet xt1LT42E E222 error code

eavinc

New OPE Member
Local time
11:50 AM
User ID
35573
Joined
Feb 21, 2026
Messages
2
Reaction score
0
Location
montreal
Hello. Sad to say i was six month outside my warranty. All this adventure started after hitting a root of my oak tree. the mower stopped. i powered it off, and it started to run normally. Finished my yard and the following week, mower would not start. I get a E222 error code, the mower can move around like a golf cart but i cannot cut my lawn. Brought my mower to a dealer and after 2 weeks and him saying he had spent hours diagnosting it, he told me that it was the left controller that was bad because no electricy was leaving it when you tried to start the mower. It was apparently a 1000$ repair. I contacted cub cadet, MTD for help and the left controller is retailed at 250$ and saw some used one's being sold for 150$ online. They told me that in their books, it would take the dealer less than an hour to do the swap. So i opened the the hood to see why i would be charged 700$+ for the repair. basically, it is 3 screws to undo the controller from mower and 4 connectors, 2 that come from the VCM and two others that got through a harness( big blue connector and smaller pine one) before heading to the mower motor. Since i wanted to make sure that this was the issue before i ordered the part because i had lost faith in this dealers honesty, i took out a multimeter. So i performed an ohm's test to the three pin connectors exiting the controllers that hook up to the motors, i get readings. For the right side, i get 20 on all combinations( i know the right side would be E3** but i wanted to compare readings), as for the left i get 20 for the top two and when i probe the lone pin (the one that does not has an empty slot at it's opposit, i get 23 for those 2 combinations. i do not know if this is still okay as the controller on the left side is smaller in size than the right controller and it goes through a wire harness before connecting to the left motor. The right controller exists directly to the right motor without going throug a harness

I put my mower back together and gave it a go and i could hear the left motor making an odd sound and it actually made the blade turn ever so slightly but error popped up again. i rince and repeated a few times with getting the motor to turn a bit but only if i unhooked everything.

So i am by no means an electronic/electric tech but i would sure appreciated for anyone's help. I've read on this site the cub cadet electronic chronicle and noticed some of you are very knowledgeable so if you can take a look at my situation, it would be awesome. i just don't want to replace this part if it's not faulty. i did flip the connectors between motors and still get the same E222 error. i downloaded the VCM module code and this error could be a faulty motor also as per my understanding. is there a way to test the motor? Thanks
 

Motorka

Pinnacle OPE Member
Local time
5:50 PM
User ID
12610
Joined
May 17, 2020
Messages
604
Reaction score
2,152
Location
EU
Country flag
Returning long post....



Error code E222 on the Cub Cadet XT1 LT42E lawn tractor indicates a communication error between the mowing motor controller (Vehicle Control Unit - VCU) and the left blade motor .

Root cause analysis and logical flaws

The system detects interruptions in the CAN-bus signal or loss of engine status feedback. Common causes are:
  1. Poor contact at the connectors: Due to vibration or dirt.
  2. Damaged wiring: Pinched or split wires between the controller and the motor.
  3. Motor controller failure: Internal electronic error.
  4. Blade Blockage: Mechanical resistance that causes electrical overload and consequent communication blackout.

Diagnostic procedure and solutions

StepDescription of the procedurePurpose
1. Visual inspectionCheck if there are any foreign objects (branches, accumulated grass) stuck under the cutting area, blocking the left blade.Elimination of mechanical blockage.
2. Checking connectionsDisconnect and reconnect the connector on the left blade motor. Check the pins for corrosion.Ensuring physical signal continuity.
3. Wiring inspectionTrace the cable from the motor to the main control unit. Look for signs of rubbing against the chassis.Short circuit or open circuit exclusion.
4. "Power Cycle"Disconnect the security key, wait 5 minutes, and then reconnect it.Software reset (VCU).

Critical note

If a visual inspection of the wiring and cleaning of the connectors does not resolve the error, the problem is likely in the blade motor's onboard electronics or main controller . As this is a high voltage system (56V), unauthorized opening of components voids the warranty and poses a safety risk.
Suggestion: If the device is still under warranty, request diagnostics with a service tool that accurately displays the communication protocol parameters.
Does the error occur immediately when you turn on the mower or only when you try to start the blades?
 

eavinc

New OPE Member
Local time
11:50 AM
User ID
35573
Joined
Feb 21, 2026
Messages
2
Reaction score
0
Location
montreal
error occurs when i try to start up the blades. Out of warranty. i removed blades to make sure nothing obstructed the spinning motion. the deck is clean. Is there a way to test the left motor or the left controller? Unpinned all wiring and harness looks in great shape.
 
Last edited:

Motorka

Pinnacle OPE Member
Local time
5:50 PM
User ID
12610
Joined
May 17, 2020
Messages
604
Reaction score
2,152
Location
EU
Country flag

Preliminary Safety and Setup Notes​


  • High-Voltage Risks: The LT42E runs on 56V DC from lithium-ion batteries, which can deliver significant current. Always disconnect the battery pack (or negative terminal) before any probing or disassembly. Wear insulated gloves and use a multimeter rated for at least 100V DC.
  • Tools Needed: Digital multimeter (for resistance, voltage, continuity), insulated screwdrivers, contact cleaner, and optionally a non-contact voltage tester.
  • Assumptions and Context: You've already confirmed no mechanical obstructions (blades removed, deck clean), wiring/harness visually intact (no chafing, corrosion), and partial motor function (slight spin/noise when disconnected). The slight ohm variance (20-23 Ω) is within tolerance for these motors—typically 15-30 Ω phase-to-phase—but doesn't rule out dynamic failures like sensor issues.
  • Implications if Tests Fail: A faulty motor might cost $200-400 (used/new), controller $150-250. If inconclusive, consider a second opinion from another dealer or sourcing parts from sites like eBay/PartsTree. Edge case: Low battery voltage (<50V total) can mimic controller faults by causing undervoltage protection shutdowns.
  • Power Cycle First: Before tests, disconnect batteries for 15+ minutes to drain capacitors and reset the VCM (Vehicle Control Module). Reconnect and test blade engage—sometimes clears transient errors post-impact.

Testing the Left Blade Motor​


The left blade motor is a brushless DC (BLDC) type, controlled via three-phase wires (your three-pin connector) and feedback sensors (Hall effect for position/speed). Your static ohm test is a good start but static-only; failures often show under load or dynamically. Here's how to test thoroughly without specialized tools like an oscilloscope.


  1. Mechanical Integrity Test (Already Partially Done):
    • With blades removed and key off/batteries disconnected, manually spin the motor shaft (via spindle if accessible). It should rotate smoothly with light magnetic resistance (cogging feel) but no grinding, binding, or excessive play.
    • Nuance: Post-root hit, bearings could be stressed—listen for unusual noise during free spin. Example: If it feels gritty, debris ingress might be the culprit, resolvable with cleaning/seal check.
    • Edge Case: If the motor spins freely but "locks" under slight resistance (e.g., hand pressure), it could indicate internal winding shorting, amplified by the harness length adding impedance.
    • Implication: If faulty, the motor might still ohm okay but fail to commutate properly, triggering E222 on engage (no feedback to VCM).
  2. Electrical Continuity and Insulation Test:
    • Disconnect the three-pin motor connector (from controller/harness).
    • Phase Resistance (Repeat/Expand Your Test): Set multimeter to ohms (200Ω scale). Probe all combinations of the three pins: Expect balanced readings ~20Ω (as you got). Variance >10% (e.g., one at 30Ω) suggests uneven windings—possible impact damage.
    • Insulation to Ground: Probe each pin to motor housing/ground (chassis). Should read infinite ohms (OL on meter)—any reading <1MΩ indicates shorting, common after shocks/vibration causing insulation breakdown.
    • Harness Continuity: With connector unplugged at both ends (controller and motor), test each wire end-to-end for continuity (0-1Ω) and no shorts between wires.
    • Nuance/Example: If ground short found, it could explain the odd noise/partial spin—current leaking causes erratic behavior. In user forums (e.g., Reddit r/lawnmowers), similar E222 cases traced to harness pinches near the deck.
    • Edge Case: Temperature affects readings—test cold vs. after attempted run. If motor gets hot quickly on partial spin, internal fault likely.
    • Implication: Passing these rules out gross wiring/motor issues, shifting suspicion to controller or VCM. Failing points to motor replacement; test right motor similarly for comparison.
  3. Dynamic/Live Test (Advanced, Risky):
    • Not recommended without experience, as it involves live 56V. If proceeding: Reconnect everything, key on (but don't engage blades). Use multimeter in DC voltage mode to probe the three-phase wires at the connector (backprobe if needed)—expect pulsed voltages ~0-56V when engaging PTO, but this requires safe access and could damage meter if not isolated.
    • Alternative Safe Method: Swap left/right motor connections (if plugs match, despite size difference). If error shifts to right side (e.g., E3xx), motor is faulty. You've tried connector flip—reconfirm if full swap possible.
    • Nuance: BLDC motors need proper phasing; incorrect wiring could cause reverse spin or no start, but for diag it's insightful.
    • Implication: If no voltage pulses, controller isn't outputting; if pulses but no spin, motor sensors failed. Safety note: Arcing risk high—disconnect batteries immediately after.

Testing the Left Controller​


The left deck motor controller (likely a MOSFET-based inverter) processes VCM commands, drives the motor, and sends feedback via CAN-bus. It's smaller than the right due to asymmetric design/harness. Testing is trickier without schematics, but focus on inputs/outputs.


  1. Power Input Check:
    • Batteries disconnected, trace the two connectors from VCM (your description: big blue and smaller pin) to controller.
    • Reconnect batteries, key on. Use multimeter (DC volts) to backprobe the power pins (typically red/black—consult wire colors from your visual). Expect ~56V steady.
    • Engage PTO briefly—voltage should hold without dropping >5V (undervoltage trip).
    • Nuance/Example: Intermittent drop could explain partial spin—vibration-loosened connection. In OPEForum threads, similar faults traced to corroded VCM plugs.
    • Edge Case: If voltage present but error persists, internal controller fault (e.g., blown driver IC from root shock).
    • Implication: No power = upstream issue (VCM, fuse—check inline fuses if present); power but no output = controller bad.
  2. Output to Motor Check:
    • As in motor dynamic test above: Probe three-phase outputs during PTO engage. Expect balanced AC-like pulses (multimeter may read erratic DC ~20-30V average).
    • If no output, controller isn't responding to VCM signal.
  3. Swap Test (If Feasible):
    • Despite size difference, if mounting/connectors allow, temporarily swap left/right controllers. If error follows to right, controller faulty. Note: Harness difference might prevent direct swap—adapt if needed.
    • Nuance: Controllers may be side-specific (firmware/calibration), so this is diagnostic only—revert after.
  4. CAN-Bus/Communication Check:
    • No easy DIY—requires scan tool. Forums note no accessible port; codes are "hard to read." If advanced, probe the smaller pin connector for signal (oscilloscope needed).

Entering Diagnostic Mode and Calibration (Key for System-Level Testing)​


Many LT42E issues (including blade engage) tie to VCM glitches or sensor calibration. From OPEForum and Cub Cadet docs:


  • Enter Diagnostic Mode(Tests Switches/Sensors Relevant to PTO):
    1. Insert key, turn to ON (don't start).
    2. Hold Reverse Caution Mode (RCM) button and the central Power/Start button simultaneously until screen shows "Diagnostic Mode" (about 5-7 seconds). Release.
    3. Screen displays binary codes (1=on, 0=off) for switches: Brake, seat, PTO, etc.
    4. Test each: Engage PTO lever/button—should toggle 1/0. If PTO doesn't change, safety interlock fault (e.g., bad switch preventing blade start).
    5. Nuance/Example: In one forum case, brake switch stuck at 1 caused no-start; similar could block PTO comm. For E222, check if left motor feedback shows (if mode displays it—not always).
    6. Exit: Turn key off.
    7. Implication: Faulty switch mimics controller error. Edge case: Dirt/vibration from root hit jams switches.
  • VCM/TPS Calibration(Resets Communication, Often Fixes Post-Impact Errors):This recalibrates pedals/sensors, potentially clearing E222 by re-syncing VCM-controller link. Use for GEN 1 VCM (buttons: Cruise, PTO, Headlight, Start, RCM); confirm your model via panel.
    1. Key OFF. Chock wheels for safety.
    2. Hold RCM and Headlight buttons while turning key ON until RCM LED lights.
    3. Release buttons.
    4. Press forward pedal fully (hard stop), press/release Cruise button, release pedal.
    5. Press reverse pedal fully, press/release PTO button, release pedal.
    6. Without touching pedals, press Start button.
    7. Save/exit: Press RCM and Headlight simultaneously (LEDs off), key OFF.
    8. Test drive (no blades first), then try blade engage.
    9. Nuance: If E107 appears (PTO held >7s), restart. For GEN 2 (screen-based), slightly different: Hold RCM/Headlight 7s until F/N/R icons, follow pedal sequence.
    10. Implication: Users on IHCubCadet report this fixes erratic behavior post-vibration. If it doesn't, deeper electronics issue.
 
Top