CLEARCUT meets the 500i

[CLEARCUT]

This was after the first day.
91 octane non-ethanol
Red Armor 40:1
Air filter working well.

 

[AlfA01]

About ten tanks. In the video, I have the original faceplate back on. That was almost one tank in that video. It is burning a lot of fuel.
I will assume the saw is normal for now. I won’t go to the saw shop. It is so weird that it burns so much fuel. But, I will see if it improves. Thanks for the help.

Mine was really thirsty at first too. IIRC the tank isn't very big for an 80cc saw.

 

[Chainsaw-57]

Good Morning,

I have always been an advocate of more oil being a good thing. 32:1 427/Ultra.

Lately I have seen 462/661 low compression, with black pistons and rings stuck in piston, 40:1. Replaced pistons or cleaned pistons and used new rings and all was good for awhile. Always ran 40:1 in older models no problem.

In communicating with people much smarter than me, they say 50:1, with modern synthetic oil by major manufacturers is the only way to go. These modern engines are much tighter and run hotter. This is causing problems for people running richer ratios. Older engines may be fine at higher ratio's.

I do not want to start an oil war, this is the information that has been presented to me.

By the way, the people running 40:1 have switched to Ultra 50:1 and no more problems. Even commented saws never ran better.

Recently a member tested "canned fuel" 50:1, and found residual oil in engine. How much is too much or too little?

Larry. HOS

 

[Funky sawman]

View attachment 216731 View attachment 216732 This was after the first day.
91 octane non-ethanol
Red Armor 40:1
Air filter working well.

You got any piston picts?. Thats crazy dirty for red armor oil!

 

[Skeans1]

You got any piston picts?. Thats crazy dirty for red armor oil!

Mine was really thirsty at first too. IIRC the tank isn't very big for an 80cc saw.

View attachment 216731 View attachment 216732 This was after the first day.
91 octane non-ethanol
Red Armor 40:1
Air filter working well.

Just a thought but are these injection systems ok with the standard oils, some of the injected bikes and sleds don’t play too nice with what we’ve all used for years.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Funky sawman]

Just to change stuff up a bit, why not try a few gallons of 10 percent ethanol 91 fuel with red armor at 50 to 1.
Idea here is to return saw to stock configuration and typical customer consumables, as thats what the designers at stihl had in mind when programming the tune. I know that FI is supposed to compensate but i have also seen instances were set bounderies in tune software was not able to handle every possible circumstance of variables that might arise

 

[AlfA01]

Just to change stuff up a bit, why not try a few gallons of 10 percent ethanol 91 fuel with red armor at 50 to 1.
Idea here is to return saw to stock comfiguration and typical customer consumables, as thats what the designers at stihl had in mind when programming the tune. I know that FI is supposed to compensate but i have also seen instances were set bounderies in tune software was not able to handle every possible circumstance of variables that might arise

These are EU variations of the saw and aren't normally subjected to ethanol fuels....chitty fuel, now that's a different story, but not much ethanol that I've heard of.

I had really good success with the 500i at 40:1 synthetic oil and regular pump gas. I run the same in all my AT saws with no issues.

 

[Funky sawman]

A few local gas stations around me that have non ethanol 91 use a strange additive package that leave major deposits on 2 stroke spark plugs. Were talking same oil, same ratio, used in different equipment, such as trimmers, blowers, drills, pole pruners, chainsaws of different brands. This fuel was used under multiple branding in other stations also. Had customer switch to different non ethanol fuel from another town and source, and they no longer had running issues and plug deposits.

 

[AlfA01]

A few local gas stations around me that have non ethanol 91 use a strange additive package that leave major deposits on 2 stroke spark plugs. Were talking same oil, same ratio, used in different equipment, such as trimmers, blowers, drills, pole pruners, chainsaws of different brands. This fuel was used under multiple branding in other stations also. Had customer switch to different non ethanol fuel from another town and source, and they no longer had running issues and plug deposits.

Easy enough for Colton to test a hypothesis like that. A couple of tanks from another station couldn't hurt.

 

[Funky sawman]

That whole fuel ordeal was a big issue, actually had husqvarna tech from Charlotte NC and Japanese tech from Kawasaki Fuji heavy industries actually fly over from japan! We had 15 new kawi trimmers that would not idle right, could not get our other products to run right no matter how we adjusted them.
The dealer I worked at was using same fuel as that customer was having issues with. That fuel was sent to a lab by husqvarna for testing and they came back and told me to switch fuels lol. No real answer except it has a strange additive package that is wreaking havoc with running systems of the engine.
That was a fun week at work, the Japanese tech even came with an interpreter!

 

[Redfin]

Just to change stuff up a bit, why not try a few gallons of 10 percent ethanol 91 fuel with red armor at 50 to 1.
Idea here is to return saw to stock configuration and typical customer consumables, as thats what the designers at stihl had in mind when programming the tune. I know that FI is supposed to compensate but i have also seen instances were set bounderies in tune software was not able to handle every possible circumstance of variables that might arise

I will not say it wont make a difference but I highly doubt it. I ran three tanks through a 500 a couple weeks ago @32:1 and 40:1 strapped to a mill. Saw never missed a beat. And that was after a decent elevation/temp change since the last it was run months ago.

 

[Manofstihl661]

I will not say it wont make a difference but I highly doubt it. I ran three tanks through a 500 a couple weeks ago @32:1 strapped to a mill. Saw never missed a beat. And that was after a decent elevation/temp change since the last it was run months ago.View attachment 216768

I was just searching last night to see if anyone had started milling with one yet but hadn’t found a thing

 

[~WBF]

That whole fuel ordeal was a big issue, actually had husqvarna tech from Charlotte NC and Japanese tech from Kawasaki fugi actually fly over from japan! We had 15 new kawi trimmers that would not idle right, could not get our other products to run right no matter how we adjusted them.
The dealer I worked at was using same fuel as that customer was having issues with. That fuel was sent to a lab by husqvarna for testing and they came back and told me to switch fuels lol. No real answer except it has a strange additive package that is wreaking havoc with running systems of the engine.
That was a fun week at work, the Japanese tech even came with an interpreter!

Yeah...Usually it's a low Reid Vapour Pressure psi (RVP) in the fuel that will cause that. The fuel volitility should be jacked up in the colder/cooler months to flash on time or it won't run probably. There is something like 28 difference blends that come out of the refineries for the US. ( "Winter fuel" ) It real should be referred to as Summer fuel by season as the Summer fuel is only in affect from June till September there in abouts. Can't remember the actual federal law dates? A few exceptions with the likes of Arizona and California and such. Basically, higher volatility (high RVP)..is a butane base generally) that causes 'smog' in the heat and Low RVP fuel (summer) is very expensive to make in comparison.
Plus they shut down refineries for two weeks to switch over. Generally a price drive. It's said you will get 1.7% more energy out off summer fuel. Maybe a good race trick in the winter if you bring your summer fuel saw 'out of the hot' and into the log?
Well that's how that works.
---------
Anyway, @CLEARCUT
You can do the same if chance you are low on RVP psi in the fuel.
Light a fire and stick it by the fire or warm a fuelled up saw in the truck and fire it up immediately as you go outside. Well it's easier than jacking it up with butane. You can pump it up to almost 50 psi with butane I believe (if needed in really cold weather.) California has a 6.9 fed standard by state law. I think about 9psi is more standards in summer in most of NA.

The formula is tested at 4:1 ratio.
20% fuel to air in a small cylinder with a pressure valve and dunked in 100 f water.
----
Ps
Don't you guys find that chain brake way too tight..as they have no glide?

 

[AlfA01]

I did some milling with mine. Running a 36" bar and 3/8 LP.

 

[lehman live edge slab]

How many hours are on it? I’ve heard from a few different sources that it takes some time to get through the break-in period and then supposedly they start running a little better. I can’t confirm that though

The one I got for the tree service smoked and ran rich also for a couple gallons of gas then seemed to lean out some. Only thing done to it was a muffler mod, imho it still ran and cut great out of the box just ran rich at first. The guys crew fights over who gets to use it just about every day.

 

[CR888]

View attachment 216731 View attachment 216732 This was after the first day.
91 octane non-ethanol
Red Armor 40:1
Air filter working well.

I'm no expert here by any means on the 500i and its running symptoms but... if the muffler looked like that after its first tank I imagine after 10 that spark screen 'might' be plugged up with carbon not preventing the saw winding out to max rpm. I'd get a butane torch, some pliers and burn the carbon off your spark screen. I think its easy with these higher tech saws to forget they are still 90% the same as saws were many years ago & we overlook the basic simple things. I'd also check the throttle body plate that its opening right up etc. Good lucky.

 

[CLEARCUT]

You got any piston picts?. Thats crazy dirty for red armor oil!

I don’t. That’s what I thought. None of my other saws are like that.

 

[CLEARCUT]

I'm no expert here by any means on the 500i and its running symptoms but... if the muffler looked like that after its first tank I imagine after 10 that spark screen 'might' be plugged up with carbon not preventing the saw winding out to max rpm. I'd get a butane torch, some pliers and burn the carbon off your spark screen. I think its easy with these higher tech saws to forget they are still 90% the same as saws were many years ago & we overlook the basic simple things. I'd also check the throttle body plate that its opening right up etc. Good lucky.

I have no screen in it. Throttle is good to go. Maybe this is just how fuel injection is in these things, IDK.

 

[CLEARCUT]

Easy enough for Colton to test a hypothesis like that. A couple of tanks from another station couldn't hurt.

It would never hurt to try that.

 

[CLEARCUT]

Yeah...Usually it's a low Reid Vapour Pressure psi (RVP) in the fuel that will cause that. The fuel volitility should be jacked up in the colder/cooler months to flash on time or it won't run probably. There is something like 28 difference blends that come out of the refineries for the US. ( "Winter fuel" ) It real should be referred to as Summer fuel by season as the Summer fuel is only in affect from June till September there in abouts. Can't remember the actual federal law dates? A few exceptions with the likes of Arizona and California and such. Basically, higher volatility (highRPV..is a butane base generally) that causes 'smog' in the heat and Low (summer) RPV is very expensive to make in comparison.
Plus they shut down refineries for two weeks to switch over. Generally a price drive. It's said you will get 1.7% more energy out off summer fuel. Maybe a good race trick in the winter if you bring your summer fuel saw 'out of the hot' and into the log?
Well that's how that works.
---------
Anyway, @CLEARCUT
You can do the same if chance you are low on RVP psi in the fuel.
Light a fire and stick it by the fire or warm a fuelled up saw in the truck and fire it up immediately as you go outside. Well it's easier than jacking it up with butane. You can pump it up to almost 50 psi with butane I believe (if needed in really cold weather.) California has a 6.9 fed standard by state law. I think about 9psi is more standards in summer in most of NA.

The formula is tested at 4:1 ratio.
20% fuel to air in a small cylinder with a pressure valve and dunked in 100 f water.
----
Ps
Don't you guys find that chain brake way too tight..as they have no glide?

Thanks for the info.
I’m not quite sure what you mean by the glide? Are you talking about how much the brake moves? For me, at least, I haven’t been bothered by any of the chainbrakes. My least favorite would be the 395 and 7900 I suppose, however.