Chainsaw milling saws big and small, pros, cons, models...

[Lightning Performance]

Like this.
View attachment 113325

Perfect for beam cuts and cant racing with a bigger carb. Ill take two please.

 

[Marshy]

There's software for designing a pipe. It won't help you with welding it though lol.

 

[Lightning Performance]

Damn.

I dont want to build the whole pipe. Seems faster to chop cut reweld.

 

[srcarr52]

Yeah, I recall it will mill about 34" wide slabs. The bar is a 44" GB bar that was converted from .404 to 3/8 roller tip.
Better eat your wheaties.
View attachment 113314

I'm not exactly sure how the adjustable shoe works. Maybe @srcarr52 knows.

That is the Panther mill I customized for Dave. I slotted the cross frame to get rid of the clamps which took away some cut length and would snag on the wood. I also welded ramp on the clamps and drilled/tapped them for bolting through the bar to make for easier chain changes.

The shoe bolts on to the powerhead with the bar cover, then you can use it to follow along the log. It's really helpful for your first cut since you don't want to side load your rail system.

 

[Marshy]

That is the Panther mill I customized for Dave. I slotted the cross frame to get rid of the clamps which took away some cut length and would snag on the wood. I also welded ramp on the clamps and drilled/tapped them for bolting through the bar to make for easier chain changes.

The shoe bolts on to the powerhead with the bar cover, then you can use it to follow along the log. It's really helpful for your first cut since you don't want to side load your rail system.

Thanks!
So just mount the adjustable shoe using one bar nut/stud on the clutch cover. Got it.

I got the bar from him as well.

 

[Lightning Performance]

Show the bar please. I like easy

 

[srcarr52]

Thanks!
So just mount the adjustable shoe using one bar nut/stud on the clutch cover. Got it.

I got the bar from him as well.

Actually I think it bolts on with the bar like this one I made for my mill.

 

[Marshy]

Show the bar please. I like easy

It's the bar is the one above with my 394 on it. It just has holes drilled in it.

Here is the bar. Two near the tip, one to the right of the sharpener and one near the dogs.



The pads on the mill which the bolts go into.

 

[Marshy]

Actually I think it bolts on with the bar like this one I made for my mill.

View attachment 113354

Thanks, maybe there's another hole in the bar hidden behind my dog in thst pic. Ill look.

 

[srcarr52]

Thanks, maybe there's another hole in the bar hidden behind my dog in thst pic. Ill look.

No, it bolts up with the same bolt that attaches the bar to the mill.

 

[Marshy]

No, it bolts up with the same bolt that attaches the bar to the mill.

10-4!

 

[Lightning Performance]

I like the setup. I don't like the amount of bar it takes up with the shoe and factory locations for the bar mount.

Considered mounting the mill to the 1122 spike but no good there.

That leaves a shallow but wide shoe built on a narrow vertical post, three or four sided. It could be bolted or welded to the bar.

I have some U shaped galvanized with the oval holes down the backbone. About an inch or so square. This might work for the beam mill. Also found two foot long pieces of 1 1/2" x 6" 1/4" aluminum C-channel.

 

[Lightning Performance]

Where do you guys think I should keep blow down on these 1122 mill saws?
Ill adjust the numbers if needed.
I'm going to leave ignition timing alone for now.
Base gasket might go might not.
The saws are bone stock.
I have a spare jug also.
All jugs 660 decomp.
Saw are all OEM.

 

[srcarr52]

I like the setup. I don't like the amount of bar it takes up with the shoe and factory locations for the bar mount.

Considered mounting the mill to the 1122 spike but no good there.

That leaves a shallow but wide shoe built on a narrow vertical post, three or four sided. It could be bolted or welded to the bar.

I have some U shaped galvanized with the oval holes down the backbone. About an inch or so square. This might work for the beam mill. Also found two foot long pieces of 1 1/2" x 6" 1/4" aluminum C-channel.

The adjustable lower shoe is removable when you don't want it, you just slide it out of the bracket. And it's also made that in it's furthest back position it doesn't really take much if any of the cut width away.

There is no way to get around loosing some of the bar due to mounting the mill on it. Bolting through the tip center and as close to the powerhead as possible with still having room to change chains is the best you are going to get.

I wouldn't recommend welding to the bar, then you only get to use ones side and welding will cause the bar to warp slightly.

 

[Lightning Performance]

No welding, ok.

 

[lehman live edge slab]

I
You might not like the old saws but I’ve milled piles with my 075 and 090. Weight not much issue after mill is hanging on the rails and cutting. Ts 760/510 Parts still available at dealer. And I know lots of people like the 3/8” chain but I do lots of old trees from in town and yards .404 takes nails pretty well but nothing holds up to lag screws. Tried my 042 on a mill once for a smaller log and I guess I’m not patient enough for that don’t think I’ll use less than my 064 on a mill unless I’m vertical edging a slab or small beam. My thoughts bottom picture is a 38-40” wide willow tree cut 3” thick they were a pain to move with 3 guys.

 

[Lightning Performance]

If I need to cut stuff that big I want twin power heads. A 660 and something on the other end. Not going any bigger in saws for now. If the 1122 holds up I'm taking it to 105.

Who thinks drilling the 1122 clutch drum for air flow is a good idea?

Definitely cutting my clutch cover and adding a stainless steel discharge flange.

 

[Lightning Performance]

View attachment 113450 View attachment 113451 View attachment 113452 View attachment 113453 I View attachment 113454
You might not like the old saws but I’ve milled piles with my 075 and 090. Weight not much issue after mill is hanging on the rails and cutting. Ts 760/510 Parts still available at dealer. And I know lots of people like the 3/8” chain but I do lots of old trees from in town and yards .404 takes nails pretty well but nothing holds up to lag screws. Tried my 042 on a mill once for a smaller log and I guess I’m not patient enough for that don’t think I’ll use less than my 064 on a mill unless I’m vertical edging a slab or small beam. My thoughts bottom picture is a 38-40” wide willow tree cut 3” thick they were a pain to move with 3 guys.

Furniture wood?

 

[Rob Stafari]

http://opeforum.com/threads/what-are-you-building-with-your-milled-wood.3617/page-12#post-618201

@lehman live edge slab has posted a few things in there, if my memory serves me correctly. Very nice inspiring work!
I need to get my 394 spruced up and do some milling already!

 

[lehman live edge slab]

Furniture wood?

Yep, I build coffee tables and various other things for fun on the side. Some of the large wide slabs for bar tops ect. The 090 handles 38” pretty decent by itself but I’ll let you know how the 075 and 051 work on my double ended 72” mill when I get the next large hardwood from my friends tree service.