Chainsaw grinder questions, tips, tricks, and pics!!!!

[singinwoodwackr]

Have you cut with one of those chains yet? I find rakers on the grinder to be a tricky business and not that bad to just hit them each a stroke with the file.

Thats fine for an occasional chain that just needs touching up. Try doing 20 rocked chains at a time…
I finally broke down and ordered a course flat cbn raker wheel to replace the regular cbn wheel I’ve had for a couple years.

 

[president]

Thats fine for an occasional chain that just needs touching up. Try doing 20 rocked chains at a time…
I finally broke down and ordered a course flat cbn raker wheel to replace the regular cbn wheel I’ve had for a couple years.

I have a tappered cbn one for my usg. Wont the flat one cut a flat surface ,and make for a jumpy
chain?

 

[Junk Meister]

I do the far side cutters, & flip the chain around
so that the wheel approaches from the low side first
to avoid the chatter .

Do you put a relief/slant angle on the forward side of the rakers? Then you need to flip the head "X*" degree when you flip the chain.
I have the grinders but have yet to get them set up.so most likely overthinking things.

 

[singinwoodwackr]

I have a tappered cbn one for my usg. Wont the flat one cut a flat surface ,and make for a jumpy
chain?

Uh, tilt the head
70-75⁰ is what my progressive gauges produce so that's what I tilt the grinder to.

 

[EFSM]

Is the reason rip chain is around 10° because the finish is better? Or is there a durability or speed reason?

Cutting across vs with the grain are two completely different animals. I don’t have experience with using ripping chain, only in sharpening it, which is usually at 10*.

 

[huskihl]

Standard chain works fine for crosscutting, noodling, and milling.
Milling chain lasts a little longer (because of the 80° side plate cutting angle ) but cuts slower while leaving a better finish

 

[Lawless]

Standard chain works fine for crosscutting, noodling, and milling.
Milling chain lasts a little longer (because of the 80° side plate cutting angle ) but cuts slower while leaving a better finish

So the only reason to change a chain to 10° for milling would be better finish? Otherwise standard chain is just as good?

 

[Junk Meister]

So the only reason to change a chain to 10° for milling would be better finish? Otherwise standard chain is just as good?

Bob L has/had a many page thread over on AS
one comment was kind of an answer.
Don't waste a chain away by sharpening it all at once. Gradually change the angle each time you sharpen it. That was about using a standard chain and converting it to a RIPPING chain Cheaper and so many pointers in that thread.

 

[Wilhelm]

Bob L has/had a many page thread over on AS
one comment was kind of an answer.
Don't waste a chain away by sharpening it all at once. Gradually change the angle each time you sharpen it. That was about using a standard chain and converting it to a RIPPING chain Cheaper and so many pointers in that thread.

I did it that way with my 36" setup, 5 or so degrees every other grinding.
That loop is now dedicated for milling, and a new 115DL loop went into rotation as a bucking chain.

 

[president]

Bob L has/had a many page thread over on AS
one comment was kind of an answer.
Don't waste a chain away by sharpening it all at once. Gradually change the angle each time you sharpen it. That was about using a standard chain and converting it to a RIPPING chain Cheaper and so many pointers in that thread.

well said!

 

[Philbert]

I often set my depth gauges with the grinder, for height, then round them over to the factory profile using a ScotchBrite deburring wheel.

Eliminates possibility of a sharp corner digging in.



Looks OEM.

Others use a file, Dremel type tool, bench grinder, . . .

 

[Wilhelm]

I often set my depth gauges with the grinder, for height, then round them over to the factory profile using a ScotchBrite deburring wheel.

Eliminates possibility of a sharp corner digging in.

View attachment 480907

Looks OEM.

Others use a file, Dremel type tool, bench grinder, . . .

I use a small OD pink stone in my straight shaft/dremel type grinder on filed rakers.

Or recently, I grind them at a 70° angle and leave them as they are.

 

[Philbert]

I use a small OD pink stone in my straight shaft/dremel type grinder on filed rakers.

Or recently, I grind them at a 70° angle and leave them as they are.

Some guys mentioned, over the years, profiling their depth gauge grinding wheel concave, to adjust height, and shape them, at the same time.

Sounds like a good idea. Never got around to trying it.

Philbert

 

[Lawless]

I sharpened a very nice like new 91DL 3/8 chain I found in the “box o chains” I inherited from my FIL. It had a little rust in 2 places but otherwise is GTG.

So all of my 28” chains are done and perfect.

I believe all the 25” chains are done too.

20” I think I have one left.

All of the .325 chains for the 261 are done.

————

I figured out that there is a little play in the grinder at the pivot. I use this to my advantage. I can come straight down and do the main cutting and then flex it to the left slightly and just barely kiss the cutter and it removes the burr perfectly

 

[huskihl]

So the only reason to change a chain to 10° for milling would be better finish? Otherwise standard chain is just as good?

Other than the side plate staying sharp a little longer being at 80°, yes. Standard chain works fine for milling, noodling, or cross cutting

 

[Lawless]

Other than the side plate staying sharp a little longer being at 80°, yes. Standard chain works fine for milling, noodling, or cross cutting

I have a guide that rides on a 2x6 to try and I plan to buy an adjustable one that rides on rails or a ladder. I want to make a few things and give it a go.

I watched a video last night of guys in Russia building a cabin, they made a lot of lumber with no guide and a MS250. Was really interesting.

 

[huskihl]

I have a guide that rides on a 2x6 to try and I plan to buy an adjustable one that rides on rails or a ladder. I want to make a few things and give it a go.

I watched a video last night of guys in Russia building a cabin, they made a lot of lumber with no guide and a MS250. Was really interesting.

There are a lot of members that enjoy messing around with it. Good for the soul, creating something usable and watching your progress as you move forward. It requires a big saw typically, but anything is possible if you can keep it running cool and well lubricated. The general rule is 70 cc minimum, but I have found the torque to be quite a bit better on 90+ cc