Chainsaw grinder questions, tips, tricks, and pics!!!!

[singinwoodwackr]

When my FIL passed, one of the things I inherited was a clone Oregon grinder. I have it mounted but the wheel was damaged somehow before I got it home.

I think I will just invest in a 3/16 CBN wheel and be done. All my chain is .325 and 3/8.

So I skimmed through a good amount of this thread and it seems that 55-60° and 30° seem to be pretty good for most chain.

What is the current thinking on 0° vs. 10° tilt?

I cut mostly oak, mostly Stihl RS chain.

—————

In my years of hand filing, I never noticed any practical difference between 0° and 10°.


** edited to add I ordered a 3/16 CBN wheel

Older chain may require the +/- 10°; newer stuff went to 0°.

 

[huskihl]

Older chain may require the +/- 10°; newer stuff went to 0°.

I think they just quit recommending the file tilt option because of the new jigs everyone is using now that don’t have the option. Easier to write a 0 in that column and not have to answer as many questions. The cutters are quite similar since the time they quit recommending it

 

[Philbert]

Oregon says that it absolutely makes a difference, with some chains, under controlled test condition conditions.

I never noticed a significant difference under my cutting, so I don’t use it.

Takes a couple of extra steps. The
10° is also not compatible with some file guides, so that can be an issue if you ‘grind at home, and file in the field’, like I do.

But one of the advantages of sharpening your own chains is the ability to experiment! So maybe try it on one of your chains, and compare it side by side with one at 0°. Then make your own decision.

Philbert

 

[singinwoodwackr]

I think they just quit recommending the file tilt option because of the new jigs everyone is using now that don’t have the option. Easier to write a 0 in that column and not have to answer as many questions. The cutters are quite similar since the time they quit recommending it

that sounds logical, lol

 

[Wilhelm]

...
So I skimmed through a good amount of this thread and it seems that 55-60° and 30° seem to be pretty good for most chain.

What is the current thinking on 0° vs. 10° tilt?

I cut mostly oak, mostly Stihl RS chain....

I cut Turkey oak almost exclusively and going to 25° from the somewhat standard 30° was a noticeable game changer for me.
Longer lasting cutter corner with next to no perceivable loss in cutting speed.
I have:
- chipper, semi chisel, full chisel
- .325", 3/8"LP, 3/8", .404"
- Husqvarna (old & new), Oregon/Dolmar, Carlton, Stihl, other off brands that I don't care much about
I lately prefer 3/8" Husqvarna X-Cut, their full chisel "C" stuff, followed by old stock Oregon LGX & Dolmar 099.

I do 55°/25°/0° on my AMA Maxx and it seems to work well enough as a universal setup across all chain pitches & types.

 

[Lawless]

I do all of my cutting here on the farm so I “could” go to grinding exclusively if I think it is a better way. I also would probably just want to touch the cutters with a file after a few tanks or when I adjust the chain. I really don’t have a plan yet regarding the grinding.

I believe it will be more consistent tooth to tooth and chain to chain for me. It would definitely be great when I hit a little barb wire or a rock in a stump.

Question. Does the CBN wheel have less issue with the barb some speak of when sharpening the off side teeth?

 

[Khntr85]

I do all of my cutting here on the farm so I “could” go to grinding exclusively if I think it is a better way. I also would probably just want to touch the cutters with a file after a few tanks or when I adjust the chain. I really don’t have a plan yet regarding the grinding.

I believe it will be more consistent tooth to tooth and chain to chain for me. It would definitely be great when I hit a little barb wire or a rock in a stump.

Question. Does the CBN wheel have less issue with the barb some speak of when sharpening the off side teeth?

You can get a burr if you take to much off, but truth is I have never seen a small burr effect anything it’s of as wood as it touched the wood…

 

[Philbert]

FWIW I was not impressed with the CBN wheeks I tried. Not magic. Still possible to overheat cutters. Left coarser profiles and burrs.

I prefer a well dressed vitrified wheel. Only issue is that they do create more dust.

But as with chains, there are cheaper wheels (CBN and standard), and there are better quality ones.


Philbert

 

[Khntr85]

FWIW I was not impressed with the CBN wheeks I tried. Not magic. Still possible to overheat cutters. Left coarser profiles and burrs.

I prefer a well dressed vitrified wheel. Only issue is that they do create more dust.

But as with chains, there are cheaper wheels (CBN and standard), and there are better quality ones.

View attachment 479729
Philbert

They are not magic for certain, but they work great and the wheel never having to be re-shaped helps create a “constant” in the equation….

And yes I had lung issues years ago and the minimal dust factor was also why I got/like them!!

 

[Khntr85]

And I also dont think those tiny burrs have any ill-effect on the chains cutting ability….i have (with my hands), ran a cutter over a 2x4 and within an 1-inch the burn was gone…

 

[Woodtroll]

I like my CBN wheel, but it did take a different head angle than the stone wheel I had hand-profiled to get the tooth hook shape I like. I got a cheaper one, because I didn't know if I'd even like it or not, and I didn't realize when I ordered that it was made of steel instead of aluminum. If I ever have to buy again I'll make sure to get an aluminum wheel - I can just imagine the start capacitor on my grinder groaning trying to get that thing up to speed. LOL. It does well once going though, and luckily my hinge spring is strong enough to keep it raised.

 

[Philbert]

And I also dont think those tiny burrs have any ill-effect on the chains cutting ability

Could be. But I don’t get them with ‘standard’ wheels.

P.S. I try to grind outside. Can be a challenge in Minnesota!

Philbert

 

[Lawless]

CBN Wheel came today.

Saturday I will work on an old chain to see how it goes.

 

[Khntr85]

CBN Wheel came today.

Saturday I will work on an old chain to see how it goes.

Let us know how it does…where did you get the wheel from??

 

[Lawless]

Let us know how it does…where did you get the wheel from??

Amazon

Reviews were great.

https://a.co/d/1dKeXJD

 

[Woodtroll]

Amazon

Reviews were great.

https://a.co/d/1dKeXJD

That's a steel one, very similar (or maybe the same, with different branding) to the one I bought. I've had good luck with it, except for the comments I've already posted about the slow spin-up and the weight on the pivot spring. Hope yours works out well for you too!

 

[Lawless]

That's a steel one, very similar (or maybe the same, with different branding) to the one I bought. I've had good luck with it, except for the comments I've already posted about the slow spin-up and the weight on the pivot spring. Hope yours works out well for you too!

All made by ling ling in chengshen

 

[Junk Meister]

CBN Wheel came today.

Saturday I will work on an old chain to see how it goes.

Same here I got the 1/8" and the 3/16" ones from "Ericweakland" Pennsylvania Last weak.
I have always hand filed so time will tell.

 

[Philbert]

I have always hand filed so time will tell.

What I share to all who are new to grinding (it’s not a chop saw!).

New to Grinding

Keep in mind that grinders don’t sharpen the chains: you sharpen the chains.

For guys new to grinding I recommend taking an old or ‘scrap’ chain, and experimenting with it, before you work on your ‘good’ chains:

- ‘play’ with every adjustment on the grinder separately, and see what each does to the cutter profile;

- intentionally try to overheat, or ‘burn’ a cutter, then work backwards to see how to avoid that (lots of small taps, no sustained contact );

- place a sharp chain that you like in the grinder, with the power ‘Off’, and try to ‘copy’ those angles and settings with the grinder adjustment (and write those settings down);

- * profile the rim of the grinding wheel, with the dressing brick, then lightly dress the wheel once per chain loop, to continuously expose fresh, sharp, abrasive. Grind with the rim of the wherl, not the side!;

- practice, and don’t worry about speed - that will come with experience.

(* does not apply to CBN wheels).

Philbert

 

[Junk Meister]

What I share to all who are new to grinding (it’s not a chop saw!).

New to Grinding

Keep in mind that grinders don’t sharpen the chains: you sharpen the chains.

For guys new to grinding I recommend taking an old or ‘scrap’ chain, and experimenting with it, before you work on your ‘good’ chains:

- ‘play’ with every adjustment on the grinder separately, and see what each does to the cutter profile;

- intentionally try to overheat, or ‘burn’ a cutter, then work backwards to see how to avoid that (lots of small taps, no sustained contact );

- place a sharp chain that you like in the grinder, with the power ‘Off’, and try to ‘copy’ those angles and settings with the grinder adjustment (and write those settings down);

- * profile the rim of the grinding wheel, with the dressing brick, then lightly dress the wheel once per chain loop, to continuously expose fresh, sharp, abrasive. Grind with the rim of the wherl, not the side!;

- practice, and don’t worry about speed - that will come with experience.

(* does not apply to CBN wheels).

Philbert

Thanks and for future readers this is very good advice. There are many tricks one learns through time. 36" planer knives set on a 5" circle keeps you on your toes and boo boos can get very expensive.
I like to read posts like yours by chance of learning something new.
Thanks Philbert