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Philbert

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How do I get someone's worn down wheels with an inch hole to go on my old little hole grinder? Someone have a line on arbor bushings?

A member with a lathe made a 1" (Silvey) to 7/8" (Oregon) diameter arbor bushing adaptor for me. It fit some wheels and some grinders (I have a few). Not all. Thousandths matter.

If these we're commercially available, even if by a member, that would be great. I would definitely be interested!

Philbert
 

Philbert

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Philbert, got lathe , make all the time for my self , can be done Chris
I was thinking that if they were made from brass, aluminum, hard plastic, etc., they would be easy for an end user to 'adjust' with sand paper, if off by a few thousandths.

Philbert
 

blades

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As these are 3/16 or less in thickness they are a bit fiddley to make from plastics, simpler in brass and Alum., steel is nice cause I can toss on surface grinder makes cutting off less of chore. Plastic on lathe have watch closely when turning to od as plastic heats up and swells , cools down and shrinks undersize if not careful . brass and alum fiddly on the cut off as you need the finished thickness right there- pain to dress down thickness wise. Thin slice cut off are a bit tricky due to the arbor hole easy to catch cut off tool, poof bad part.
 

Philbert

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So, maybe the best option is a "set": with some bushings exact size, some undersized on the OD, and some oversized on the ID?

Thin tape to shim to exact size?

Philbert
 

blades

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Sizes of arbors I know about
Forester 7/8, Stilh 12mm, Oregon-windsor-Efco 22mm, Silvey 1", Bell/Neilson 3/8, Foley 307/308 1/2 ( 22mm =.8661- 7/8 = .875 dif. is .0089 or about 3 sheets of 20# bond paper or 1/128
 

Rob Stafari

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Looks similar to what I've been grinding when the middle arm adjustment is near center. I've also ground a few of each adjusted both fore and aft. I've not had much time to test them yet. By the end of this weekend I should know more. Logs ready to mill and a bunch of locust and cherry firewood I need to save from the tree service before they get a wild hair and send it down the road to the mulch producer.
 

Duane(Pa)

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Looks similar to what I've been grinding when the middle arm adjustment is near center. I've also ground a few of each adjusted both fore and aft. I've not had much time to test them yet. By the end of this weekend I should know more. Logs ready to mill and a bunch of locust and cherry firewood I need to save from the tree service before they get a wild hair and send it down the road to the mulch producer.
Or buy some brakeclean apparently... Sounds like the option for me as I have yet to clean a chain.View attachment 140459



Is this with the adjustment full forward? Looks like a razor blade :icon_domokun:
 
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Semotony

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Nope, in the middle with the dressers set as they came from the factory.
Pretty close on the settings, just down a little from center which allows the cutter back stop to be back a little; that's what made the" fangs" on that loop. Good for soft wood racing IIRC! If my understanding is correct bringing the arm up from center causes the cutter to be forward which rotates the edge down in relation to the grindstone which brings the angle to a higher number. For example from 25° to 38° the former soft wood more fragile edge, the latter a longer lasting edge that may not cut as fast but will do it for longer-term prior to needing to be touched up.
 

Semotony

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Just make em sharp..

They’ll cut.
The"word" lol from a gent who knows better what he's talking about. I'm still working on a chain to throw chips and leave a smooth sided slab, but I am dumb enough to think I can see three diminsionally the interaction of grinding wheel with the cutters.:BangHead: never got scents into the bucket before lol
 

Semotony

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1" to 7/8" ?

Philbert
Or a slice of 1" od tubing 1/16" wall. Course finding it wood be easier if any of my old bosses were still alive. Two of them I was older when they passed. Custom metal fab shop that had some of the oddest material cause the old man wood bid on stuff other businesses passed on.
 

Skeans1

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1" to 7/8" ?

Philbert
Correct
#M316
5547efa4af54f9579b5de9a0947f37c2.png


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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Philbert

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A member with a lathe made a 1" (Silvey) to 7/8" (Oregon) diameter arbor bushing adaptor for me. It fit some wheels and some grinders (I have a few). Not all. Thousandths matter.
Was out of town for a bit. Finally got down to measuring* the arbor O.D. on a number of what-should-be-identical grinders.

Surprise!

1) Arbors not all the same (see measurements* below).
2) Most arbors were not perfectly round! I may have to dress these with some emery cloth and a stick.
* I am not a machinist, and only had a a HF digital caliper, but I made several measurements of each, so they should be close, if not exact.

511A I.D.jpg

Oregon 511A_______ 0.868 - 0.8695"
Speed Sharp Star____0.8695- 0.870"
Tecomec Super Jolly_ 0.8715 - 0.872"
Oregon 520-120____ 0.871 0.8735"

six thouandths variation seems like a lot to me; might be a little less if I knock down a few high spots?

Philbert
 
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blades

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Considering that those arbors are supposed to be 22mm ( .866) . Dull tool, improper cutting speed. poor steel quality. That is terrible for cnc produced items, but what I have come to expect from chi-com sourced parts. pretty sure the 511 and the 520 are the same motor, can't even blame it on stacked tolerances. Out of balance wheel due to mismach of arbortolerances/wheel tolerances, recipe for disaster at 3600 rpm. Possible with finesse to turn down arbors to say 5/8 Dia. then bush back to correct . Then question is how uniform are the arbor holes of the wheels- Vitrified are likely going to have a fair range but the borazon alum core ones should be right on the money- +/- .0005. A while back on one of the forums caught H for suggesting tape to snug up a wheel on a chain grinder arbor .
 
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