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So what do you guys think about these CBN wheels.....to me it seems like it would be a good idea to get one since they stay the same shape and don't burn cutters as bad...

Please let me know what you guys think about these CBN wheels good or bad!!!

It seems to me a guy like me just starting out grinding, would be money ahead to just buy a CBN wheel right off the bat...

Any opinions appreciated!!!!
IMO they are money well spent.
I have both a 1/8" for .325 and smaller chain plus the 3/16" for 3/8" and larger chains. I've sharpened hundreds of chains with both wheels(probably more with the 1/8 wheel) and they still work just as good as the day I got them.
Not having to constantly dress the wheels is great. The wheels I got each came with a cleaning stone. I clean the wheels with the stone about once every 10 or so chains or whenever I notice that I'm starting to get a burr on the cutters. I should also mention again that I don't clean chains before I sharpen them.
 

Khntr85

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IMO they are money well spent.
I have both a 1/8" for .325 and smaller chain plus the 3/16" for 3/8" and larger chains. I've sharpened hundreds of chains with both wheels(probably more with the 1/8 wheel) and they still work just as good as the day I got them.
Not having to constantly dress the wheels is great. The wheels I got each came with a cleaning stone. I clean the wheels with the stone about once every 10 or so chains or whenever I notice that I'm starting to get a burr on the cutters. I should also mention again that I don't clean chains before I sharpen them.
Hey great post, thanks a lot.... you know you brought up an idea I have been wondering about, the 2-main wheel sizes..... I personally only have one saw right now with .325 chain(hopefully I will have an 026 with .325 soon too!!!)... however I would like to eventually start sharpening other people's chains too.......I always have a few people asking me if I sharpen their chain, now I will simply be saying absolutely!!!

Now for me personally it would seem like the average guy that is cutting wood, has .325 chain.... of course tree guys would have lots of 3/8....

Do you guys that sharpen the general public a chain seem to sharpen more 3/8 or .325 chain????
 

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I sharpen my chains, and friends' chains. I don't sharpen as a business. But by 'friends' I include some storm cleanup groups that I volunteer with.

So that includes everything from 3/8 low-pro/narrow-kerf (0.043 gauge) to full sized 3/8. Don't get a lot of requests for .404 chain, but that depends who your'friends'are!

3/8 low-pro ('Picco') chain is very common on consumer saws up to 45cc, but also on many pro limbing and pole saws.

Philbert
 

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I sharpen my chains, and friends' chains. I don't sharpen as a business. But by 'friends' I include some storm cleanup groups that I volunteer with.

So that includes everything from 3/8 low-pro/narrow-kerf (0.043 gauge) to full sized 3/8. Don't get a lot of requests for .404 chain, but that depends who your'friends'are!

3/8 low-pro ('Picco') chain is very common on consumer saws up to 45cc, but also on many pro limbing and pole saws.

Philbert
Phlilbert, do Lo Pro, Picco and .043 all use 1/8 ?

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I think top plate angles, wheel angles, and rakers depth is all personal preferences. Some chains may be too grabby in hard wood as where they will eat through soft wood with ease. . My climbing saw I have 2 types of chains depending on the job. a very aggressive chain for soft wood and 2 stihl chains that will be staying close to stock specs for hard woods or dry wood.
My oh34 has a chiz skip chain light on the rakers chain for big hard wood. And a full chiz set aggressive for pine, boxelder, silver maple and its like a hot knife through butter. It all works for me really well. where others may think it's not convenient.
So that's why I say it's a personal preference thing and trial n error.
 

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Hey great post, thanks a lot.... you know you brought up an idea I have been wondering about, the 2-main wheel sizes..... I personally only have one saw right now with .325 chain(hopefully I will have an 026 with .325 soon too!!!)... however I would like to eventually start sharpening other people's chains too.......I always have a few people asking me if I sharpen their chain, now I will simply be saying absolutely!!!

Now for me personally it would seem like the average guy that is cutting wood, has .325 chain.... of course tree guys would have lots of 3/8....

Do you guys that sharpen the general public a chain seem to sharpen more 3/8 or .325 chain????
3/8 its a few select saws that run 325 that I've come across I got rid of my pp4620 piped it was the only 325 saw I had. My 0h26 is a 3/8.
 

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Phlilbert, do Lo Pro, Picco and .043 all use 1/8 ?

Yes.

'Picco' is just STIHL's brand name for it's 3/8 low-profile chain. Husqvarna calls it 'MINI'. Oregon has a few variations of 3/8 low-profile, .050 gauge chain that fall under their Type 91 family, which are sold as 'S' chain in retail stores (e.g. 'S56' is a 56 drive link loop of 3/8 low-profile, .050 gauge chain). They all sharpen with a 1/8" thick grinding wheel.

BUT there is also a version of 3/8 low-profile chain that is also narrow kerf and .043 gauge: Oregon Type 90 and STIHL Picco Micro Mini (!). While these also sharpen with the 1/8" thick grinding wheel, they might take different diameter files if hand filed.

Philbert
 
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Yes.

'Picco' is just STIHL's brand name for 3/8 low-profile chain. Husqvarna calls it 'MINI'. Oregon has a few variations of 3/8 low-profile, .050 gauge chain that fall under their Type 91 family, which are sold as 'S' chain in retail stores (e.g. 'S56' is a 56 drive link loop of 3/8 low-profile, .050 gauge chain). They all sharpen with a 1/8" thick grinding wheel.

BUT there is also a version of 3/8 low-profile chain that is also narrow kerf and .043 gauge: Oregon Type 90 and STIHL Picco Micro Mini (!). While these also sharpen with the 1/8" thick grinding wheel, they might take different diameter files if hand filed.

Philbert
I only have 028 and 020T that use 1/8 although Lonewolf's 261 is begging me!

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3/8 its a few select saws that run 325 that I've come across I got rid of my pp4620 piped it was the only 325 saw I had. My 0h26 is a 3/8.
I hear ya about different angles for different wood.... I cut hardwood 99% of the time..... when I get into a silver maple or something soft like it is, it's amazing how easy it is to cut threw!!!

Ya most tree guys will have mostl 3/8 with some smaller pitch chain... but most homeowners (that don't want to sharpen their own chain), have the .325....

I would probably buy the 3/16 CBN wheel first as it what "I" use the most....

What kind of grinder you using bikemike, and do you use CBN wheels???
 

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I hear ya about different angles for different wood.... I cut hardwood 99% of the time..... when I get into a silver maple or something soft like it is, it's amazing how easy it is to cut threw!!!

Ya most tree guys will have mostl 3/8 with some smaller pitch chain... but most homeowners (that don't want to sharpen their own chain), have the .325....

I would probably buy the 3/16 CBN wheel first as it what "I" use the most....

What kind of grinder you using bikemike, and do you use CBN wheels???
I have a harbor freight and a oregon grinder no diamond wheels yet but one day hope to. consistency of not dressing a wheel and having to re adjust the depth is got to save time time is money
 

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I tell you guys I ground some .325 chain today with the 1/8 wheel for the first time...I did not get it were I want it yet... don't know what I am doing wrong yet, but I will figure it out... only fooled with one chain anyway...
 

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I tell you guys I ground some .325 chain today with the 1/8 wheel for the first time...I did not get it were I want it yet... don't know what I am doing wrong yet, but I will figure it out... only fooled with one chain anyway...
Youtube can help get you started what grinder are you using?
 

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Some guys will grind .325 with the larger wheel when new, then the smaller wheel when the cutter is ground back and lower. They may do the same thing with file sizes.

Remember that .325 is the pitch of the cutter, related to its length; not its height or profile. The height and profile may vary between manufacturers and even models / series of chains, so the results that one guy is getting on his .325 chain may be different that what you get on your chain.

Keep experimenting and see what works for you, or what you learn.

Philbert
 

bikemike

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Some guys will grind .325 with the larger wheel when new, then the smaller wheel when the cutter is ground back and lower. They may do the same thing with file sizes.

Remember that .325 is the pitch of the cutter, related to its length; not its height or profile. The height and profile may vary between manufacturers and even models / series of chains, so the results that one guy is getting on his .325 chain may be different that what you get on your chain.

Keep experimenting and see what works for you, or what you learn.

Philbert
I have had great luck using my thin grinder wheel on 325 pitch new or used chain.
 

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Youtube can help get you started what grinder are you using?
Hey I am using the Oregon 520.... i should have explained more....I only ground on one .325 stihl RM chain, then went and made a few cuts.... the chain cut "ok", and it had decent size chips, but not yet were I want it....I will get some pics tomorrow, my wife and 18-month old have been sick for a week(now luckily me), so I haven't had much time lately...

I should add that I had the same problem when I first got the grinder(my 1st ever grinder), and I ground some full size 3/8 chain....the first 2-chains were average at best..... however the last loop of Stihl RS I ground was GREAT....you see I have always hand filed and have always been on the hand-filing guys team....now since I have got the grinder I am honestly having a hard time finding a problem with it!!!!

Bikemike, if you don't mind me asking what angles do you grind your 3/8 and .325 chains at on your Oregon grinder..... i have mostly all stihl chain RS and RM both.... I did just get 4-loops of Oregon full chisel, $9.99 for 20" and $11.99 for 25"....

Sorry for long-winded post, as a lot of these guys know I am a chain sharpening nerd for sure!!!!!
 

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Some guys will grind .325 with the larger wheel when new, then the smaller wheel when the cutter is ground back and lower. They may do the same thing with file sizes.

Remember that .325 is the pitch of the cutter, related to its length; not its height or profile. The height and profile may vary between manufacturers and even models / series of chains, so the results that one guy is getting on his .325 chain may be different that what you get on your chain.

Keep experimenting and see what works for you, or what you learn.

Philbert
Thanks philbert.......as I am sure you can tell I WILL NOT give up until I have it "perfect" in my mind.....

To be honest with you philbert I think the reason I like the grinder more than I thought I would is the fact that you do have a lot of control over angles/depths....before I used a grinder I just thought you basically put the chain on and grind it.....well as we know there is ALOT more to it than that!!!!!:beer-toast1:
 

bikemike

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Hey I am using the Oregon 520.... i should have explained more....I only ground on one .325 stihl RM chain, then went and made a few cuts.... the chain cut "ok", and it had decent size chips, but not yet were I want it....I will get some pics tomorrow, my wife and 18-month old have been sick for a week(now luckily me), so I haven't had much time lately...

I should add that I had the same problem when I first got the grinder(my 1st ever grinder), and I ground some full size 3/8 chain....the first 2-chains were average at best..... however the last loop of Stihl RS I ground was GREAT....you see I have always hand filed and have always been on the hand-filing guys team....now since I have got the grinder I am honestly having a hard time finding a problem with it!!!!

Bikemike, if you don't mind me asking what angles do you grind your 3/8 and .325 chains at on your Oregon grinder..... i have mostly all stihl chain RS and RM both.... I did just get 4-loops of Oregon full chisel, $9.99 for 20" and $11.99 for 25"....

Sorry for long-winded post, as a lot of these guys know I am a chain sharpening nerd for sure!!!!!
50° on the grinder head. And 25 or 30 degree angle on the top plate. seams like the lesser degrees on the top plate seams more resistant against dirty wood. at work we have a stihl 661 with a 36 bar chain. it is wearing a skip chain and I did the top plate at 20° and the wheel sits at 55° been working great on all woods hard or soft. It's not a race chain but it runs very consistent for notches, back cuts, and big crotches
 

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Thanks philbert.......as I am sure you can tell I WILL NOT give up until I have it "perfect" in my mind.....

To be honest with you philbert I think the reason I like the grinder more than I thought I would is the fact that you do have a lot of control over angles/depths....before I used a grinder I just thought you basically put the chain on and grind it.....well as we know there is ALOT more to it than that!!!!!:beer-toast1:
It's all I use to do hand file. takes too much time if you own more than 1 saw with 2 or 3 chains. IL use a file if I'm on a job and need to finish up my day but the grinder is so much more consistent and quick
 

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50° on the grinder head. And 25 or 30 degree angle on the top plate. seams like the lesser degrees on the top plate seams more resistant against dirty wood. at work we have a stihl 661 with a 36 bar chain. it is wearing a skip chain and I did the top plate at 20° and the wheel sits at 55° been working great on all woods hard or soft. It's not a race chain but it runs very consistent for notches, back cuts, and big crotches
Hey thanks bilemike..... you know it's funny that you say you use the 50 angle.....when i first got the grinder I put a brand new stihl RS chain on the grinder, to try and match up the factory edge.... well for whatever reason I thought it would be around 60.... well as you said, to me the angle is a lot closer to 50 on the Oregon grinder!!!

I have talked to a lot of guys with the Oregon grinders that have also said the same thing about the angles.....
 
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