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If doing the 10 degree tilt ,the 25 will give you a stronger outer corner than 30 will .Oh and guys I just realized something....I sharpened that RS chain at 30 top plate and I just seen a chart and it said 25 top plate....
Can you guys tell me if the RS is a 30 top plate or 25... thanks a lot!!
Hey thanks for the tip.... I would love to see/run that chain, I bet it's hungry as hell!!!If doing the 10 degree tilt ,the 25 will give you a stronger outer corner than 30 will .
I use weird angles i found messing around ,i go 40-20-20 ,turns out real sharp ,not sure how would hold up to oak or such though ,i cut softwoods .
I have a stihl usg grinder ,it has a grey colored wheel ,not sure if my angles will work good on an oregon grinder or not .Hey thanks for the tip.... I would love to see/run that chain, I bet it's hungry as hell!!!
Yes sir, I only cut hardwood, softest would be walnut..... ya I can tell I am goin to love messing with this grinder already..... like you said I can see myself playing with different angles and what not.... obviously I will have to be cognizant of the fact I am cutting hardwood, so can't go to extreme, but can fiddle none the less....
What kind of grinder do you have.....also what wheels do you use, I only have pink ones now...
You are just making a more complex, compound angle. The engineers swear that it makes a significant difference in test fixtures, under controlled conditions. Whether the difference is noticeable/ significant to you, is a question only you can answer.I could never see the vise tilt making a difference. A file is round. When you drop your file handle 10°, you're effectively giving the near side of the tooth a sharper, but more fragile, angle.
Take a deep breath. The beauty of sharpening your own chains is that you can set them at whatever angles you want, and you can experiment.Oh and guys I just realized something....I sharpened that RS chain at 30 top plate and I just seen a chart and it said 25 top plate....
Oh and what kind of wheels are you guys using....
Ooooo hhhhhhaaaaaa oooooohhhhaaaaaa lol, I feel better now philbert lol!!!You are just making a more complex, compound angle. The engineers swear that it makes a significant difference in test fixtures, under controlled conditions. Whether the difference is noticeable/ significant to you, is a question only you can answer.
Again, if you plan to go back-and-forth between a grinder and a file guide, make sure that settings like this are compatible.
Take a deep breath. The beauty of sharpening your own chains is that you can set them at whatever angles you want, and you can experiment.
Some guys will have loops sharpened at different angles for different species of wood, for green vs seasoned wood, for different times of the year (think 'frozen wood'), or even different saws (HP).
Sometimes different versions of these charts will specify different angles!!!
Focus now on getting each cutter sharp, and making every cutter on a loop the same (even if different than the cutters on other loops).
I buy the Molemab wheels when on sale at Bailey's.
Philbert
I know this is a whole other subject in it's self, but do you clean your chains before you grind them.... I have read were some guys clean them before grinding with the CBM wheels and some don't....I have used the same 2 CBN wheels for over a year now. (1/8" and 3/16") Other then cleaning the wheels periodically they require zero maintenance. I've sharpened hundreds and hundreds of chains with then and they still work like they did when they were new
Personally I don't clean the chains before grinding.I know this is a whole other subject in it's self, but do you clean your chains before you grind them.... I have read were some guys clean them before grinding with the CBM wheels and some don't....
First off, the chips in your photo a few posts above look pretty good (but don't let any of the hand filers know that)!. . . I ground some more RM chain at 30/60/0.... I personally do not like the way it looks.... when I grind the RS at 30/60/0 it looks right, and cuts damn good....
Thank you philbert....I will be honest with ya philbert, I was shocked at how long the chips were and how well the chain self-fed and cut in general.....I am extremely happy with the grinder(as I know you can already tell lol)....First off, the chips in your photo a few posts above look pretty good (but don't let any of the hand filers know that)!
As far as RS (full-chisel) vs RM (semi-chisel) they will always look different, because semi-chisel does not have that pointy point leading edge that 'looks' sharp (whether filed or ground). Sharpen your semi-chisel chains and see if they cut damn good as well.
30° / 60° / 0° is the classic 'default' setting that most shops will use if you bring them a chain to sharpen. In recent years, Oregon has been recommending 30° / 55° / 10° for more of their chains. I don't like the extras steps of fussing with the 'down angle' setting, so I have been grinding most at 30° / 55° / 0° . It also makes a slightly deeper hook, which 'looks' sharper. But I do this on all chains.
Philbert