Chain self tightening

[J.w Younger]

Looks like lack of bar oil ?

These new fangled epa saws and bars are a little stingy wit bar oil.
we didn't have that problem with the ole clintions and stuff, just fill the tank with 30wt and fill the left over back up with gas
and you got yer mix.

 

[J.w Younger]

Holy Chit, yous bringin maths into this. Could you explain that in redneck? I'm not nearly that smart so I'll take your word for it.

Sure, (i don't do math actually the calculator does) but the .375 sprocket will move the chain 2.65 inches per revolution.
That chain may be mostly is toast i bet, them ain't worth a *s-word anyway thou.
Should pick you up an 8 pin when you run that 16", bet it would pull it, and if it don't i bet Randy can make it so it does.

 

[Agent Orange]

Sure, (i don't do math actually the calculator does) but the .375 sprocket will move the chain 2.65 inches per revolution.
That chain may be mostly is toast i bet, them ain't worth a *s-word anyway thou.
Should pick you up an 8 pin when you run that 16", bet it would pull it, and if it don't i bet Randy can make it so it does.

I've got an 8 pin I bought from Redbull, is that what I need to run with the 16" bar and chain? Won't over rev the saw it damage it? No porting for now, stock carries the warranty for whatever it's worth. I'm not rich and I could afford the MS250, boss bought me the MS362. ( and that's why I cut that dirty assed cottonwood against better judgement )

 

[J.w Younger]

I've got an 8 pin I bought from Redbull, is that what I need to run with the 16" bar and chain? Won't over rev the saw it damage it? No porting for now, stock carries the warranty for whatever it's worth. I'm not rich and I could afford the MS250, boss bought me the MS362. ( and that's why I cut that dirty assed cottonwood against better judgement )

I don't THINK it would void the warranty and it won't over rev it but it may make it bog.

 

[Agent Orange]

I don't THINK it would void the warranty and it won't over rev it but it may make it bog.

I'll have more torque with the 7 though, correct? I did a trial run with the 8 on my 20" bar, it was fast in the Pear I tackled but it bogged in the cottonwood when I tried it briefly. Went back to the 7 for that dirty pile of awesome.

Thank you for the help, I'm still new to most of this.

 

[J.w Younger]

I'll have more torque with the 7 though, correct? I did a trial run with the 8 on my 20" bar, it was fast in the Pear I tackled but it bogged in the cottonwood when I tried it briefly. Went back to the 7 for that dirty pile of awesome.

Thank you for the help, I'm still new to most of this.

I don't have any experience with the 362, sounds like you already figured it out thou.
Rims are easy to change with inboard clutches, only way to know is try em.

 

[junkman]

That probably is true to a degree. The dirt would clog up the bar, so I would stop mid cut and Rev the saw against clean wood, it would shoot chunks of dirt and bar oil out until it ran bar oil clean. Had to repeat that a million times so I'm sure it was run dry a percentage of the time.

The only times i have seen a chain worn down on the drive links like that ,was due to the oiler not working right ,or the chain was dull and they kept cutting with a dull chain ,even milling with no aux oiler i never wear a chain down like that through the life of the chain ,are you getting good sized chips cutting ? or smaller ones and sawdust looking stuff ?Something to look at anyways ,hard to tell for sure without the saw in my hands .
A .063 guage chain in 3/8 will help carry more oil also than a .050 3/8 ,or a smaller .325 chain .

 

[Agent Orange]

The only times i have seen a chain worn down on the drive links like that ,was due to the oiler not working right ,or the chain was dull and they kept cutting with a dull chain ,even milling with no aux oiler i never wear a chain down like that through the life of the chain ,are you getting good sized chips cutting ? or smaller ones and sawdust looking stuff ?Something to look at anyways ,hard to tell for sure without the saw in my hands .
A .063 guage chain in 3/8 will help carry more oil also than a .050 3/8 ,or a smaller .325 chain .

I won't lie and say I'm great at sharpening, but I can get decent chips. I had to sharpen 2-3 times per cut on that nasty cottonwood I posted a picture of. If it started throwing dust and quit cutting I would stop and sharpen. All my chain is .063"

 

[Dingeryote]

Thank you guys for the detailed information. I understand the chain and sprocket "mesh" with each other. I guess I was naive in thinking the sprocket was hard enough that itwouldn't wear like it did. I killed a chain that should've lasted me quite a bit longer than it has. That stings a little because I'm Dutch....

That chain isn't smoked. I'd even run it on a new rim after dressing the drivers. The rim wear will be accelerated slightly on an academic standpoint, but not enough to justify tossing a more expensive loop of chain.

If it bugs you that much, toss the chain in a Ziplock, and mark it as an ugly chain...for use on fencerows and rock infested shagbark.
One use wont wear the rim much, and you'll be saving a good loop from the horrors of wire.

On nasty, dirty, junky, or farm field windrow trees, snag a loop of RM semi Chiz.
Saves a LOT of file work and time.

 

[cdixon]

I would also replace the sprocket bearing . My Partner did the same thing getting tight after putting a new rim on. Tore it back down the rollers fell out the bearing. It got so hot it had damaged the oil pump. My wife let me get a new MS250 to replace it. I'll rebuild the Partner this Spring.