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Chain changing tension as it rotates

Woodtroll

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The crank did not get bent and then unbend itself and then bent again. So don't worry about that.

And the crank is not changing position while you're advancing the chain by hand. The clutch drum should be spinning freely while the crank stays stationary. I don't believe the crank is bent, either, but I'm definitely curious to see what you figure out.
 

STOVE

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The crank did not get bent and then unbend itself and then bent again. So don't worry about that.
So it’s down to, Oregon versa lightweight bar or the tensioner.

The 28” added too many variables, so I’m wondering if I add the OEM 325 sprocket back and it’s gone. That lays it on Oregon bar alone?
 

Duane(Pa)

It's the chain...
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Observe the protrusion of the nose sprocket teeth as you rotate it. This is dragging on like it's winter or something! lol
 

Outback

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The tensioner isn't doing anything after you tighten the bar nuts. Forget about that.

You have a wierdly stretched chain, Which I believe you said you eliminated as a problem. I did not reread the thread.

Or a bad drum, rim, drum bearing or bar tip sprocket. Check all of them for play,
 

dangerousatom

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^^^ I’d have to agree if it’s not the chain it’s the gear on the bar tip.

Clamp the bar in a vice with a square along side and leave a gap between the edge of the square and gear up by the nose. Gap it only big enough for like a credit card to fit between the gear tooth at the 3oclock position. Turn the nose gear and check the gap on each tooth. If it changes ( and its a new bar ) it’s either an out of round gear or the gears center hole was punched off center. A few hundreds up there can cause a few 64ths along the bar.
 

legdelimber

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That 6 inch~ish travel per change, kinda tilts me towards the nose sprocket.
Figure a smidge more than three times (3.1416...) the diameter of a sprocket and that will get you the distance of one turn of the sprocket.
Might help a little with narrowing it down to which one to stare at.
 
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