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Carb Guru? WJ-69 and Clone comparison

GoBigBlue1984

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I'd be interested to hear what the manufacturer has to say. Do you have any correspondence with them Dave?
 

Mastermind

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The metering spring pre-load, rate and size of the metering orifice are all elements of the idle and ramping in of the low speed circuit. If you start shimming up the metering spring, the idle will get a bit leaner and the ramp is slightly more delayed - in other words you change the tune of the carb. I'm thinking that working with the 'pulse chamber' may be the best way to approach the problem.

It is going to be a long time before I wear out another diaphragm, Hell I haven't cut wood in two months and probably won't be for another two months (medical operation and recuperation). I've wanted to see if the metering spring between the lid and the diaphragm in the pulse chamber would smooth out the idle, perhaps someone with a carb that is giving an erratic idle could try it.

In order to center the metering spring over the center of the diaphragm, you could drill a small indent inside the lid that the metering spring would sit in. Then holding the carb upside down, you move the lid 'up' into position so the metering spring stays in position. I don't know if the mod will work, and if it actually does, what kind of spring pre-load would be required - that's something a modder will have to work out.

If the mod did work to create a more consistent idle, I expect a lot of guys would like to know about it.

Terry and I might not agree on porting......but when it comes to carbs.......well, he's the man.

I remember someone saying they liked turtles -this one was a gluten free special order birthday cake my SIL made awhile back.
View attachment 28866

I like turtles.


Out of all the carbs Dave has sent me, the 272 clone is the only ones that were usable. But.....I'm picky as hell about tune.
 

CR888

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[QUOTE="Definitive Dave, post: 154199, member: 297]I thought I was home free and ordered 100 and now it seems like about 1/3 of the ones that are out there tune all funky :([/QUOTE]
At least you care about it Dave a do ya darndest to sell people the best AM parts you can.
 

Mastermind

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Me too,after I port one I'll go through a large bucket of carbs looking for the right one. I'm out of control looking for the perfect tune.
I tune every saw I see someone using whether I know them or not.
I can't listen to a fat saw

I've been all over the place on the tune debate. At one time I was all about keeping them as fat as you could to make them live longer. Then........I started leaning them out a little more, and a little more. Now I'm sorta in the middle. They can't be too lean, or they run so hot that they die too soon, but they can't be too fat, or they never perform like they should. I've said it before, and I'll say it again........tune is everything.
 

Cut4fun

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Dave folks on a carb thread on my site have been looking for a replacement check valve for a hda 164 for years. Needed nla new walbro 86 654 any ideas folks for a replacement or even a aftermarket that will work? Thought I would pick a few more brains. ;)

Thread started in 2013 http://chainsawrepair.createaforum.com/poulan/hda-164-nla/
 
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Chainsaw Jim

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I'm wondering if the check valve in the main discharge nozzle may not be seating correctly. At an idle there isn't enough low pressure at the venturi to draw fuel. Under those conditions, the nozzle then provides a passage for air into the wet side of the carb. What happens is that instead of pulling the metering diaphragm down, it is easier to suck air through the nozzle - thus we need the check valve in the nozzle for idling.

Maybe after a while idling the check valve shifts around and seals again and the result is a variable mixture ratio at idle. If you have a good carb, you could try swapping the discharge nozzles and see if that fixes the problem.
I was wondering the same thing. Main nozzles/check valves are only about $6 each to order them and easy enough to check and replace if needed.
 

Cut4fun

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Your guys idle issues. Sound just like the leaky check valves on the oem 164 I just seen.

It would actually flood the saw at idle after awhile. I like to leave a saw at to idle forever before putting it on the firewood market.

I was chasing the idle all over the place.
 

Chainsaw Jim

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There's no need to swap the plates, everything lines up just fine
I was referring to the picture shown where the "snorkel" is offset on the clone. If you've ever installed the filter base on the 066/660 you'll know it isn't adjustable and forcing it to fit is a hamfistable offence. Lol
 

jmssaws

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I've been all over the place on the tune debate. At one time I was all about keeping them as fat as you could to make them live longer. Then........I started leaning them out a little more, and a little more. Now I'm sorta in the middle. They can't be too lean, or they run so hot that they die too soon, but they can't be too fat, or they never perform like they should. I've said it before, and I'll say it again........tune is everything.
A very strong saw can be made a turd in a second with a screwdriver.
 

Keith Gandy

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I tried an aftermarket carb on my 064 and it had excellent throttle response but had the crazy idle issue on the l side . I found 2 oem wj69s and rebuilt them and presto ! Listen to that tune:ARMS1::applaudit::banana:
 

Chainsaw Jim

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I'd like to have a look at one of these things to compare it. Maybe there is a solution, maybe not. I'm no guru or expert but I've been into them with steady focus the entire time I've worked on saws.
One thought I have is that maybe it's a clone of the earliest models before the intelli-carb plate with the snorkel was used. Has anyone tried replacing the plate with an older metal one?
 
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