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Bigger setup for CS milling

SawNut

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I've been using my MS661c and a Granberg 36" mill for over 10 years now. I've milled hundreds of boards with it, and have saved thousands of dollars in lumber costs. I mostly mill hardwoods like oak, ash, hickory, walnut. I usually run an RM chain, filed at 15*. I have found that setup to work pretty well for me. I get a few cuts before having to resharpen, which I only use a grinder on, so that means pulling the chain, and grinding it. The saw will cut anything under 24", but as you get over that, it starts to slow down quite a bit. I now have access to a ~48" white oak, that is just too nice to turn into firewood, but it's too big for my 661 setup. I've been looking at 881s and 3120s for many years now. Of course, I wish I bought them when they were hundreds of dollars cheaper. I wish I had just started with an 880/3120 from the get go, but you live and learn. While I am a "Stihl guy", I don't dislike Husky...there just aren't many dealers around here these days, and saws and parts have to be mail ordered. I've read the pros and cons of the two saws, and I'm probably leaning towards the 881, unless there is some reason I'm missing. I wouldn't use a 3120 without a high speed needle installed, unless I can be certain that it won't ever run too lean. I can get a small discount on the 881 from a local dealer, but its still close to a grand more than the Husky. It comes with a .404 41" bar. I feel like I need a 48" bar at the minimum, and I was thinking of staying with 3/8 chain, and maybe running full skip, or at least half skip. I feel like the .404 will sap more power and waste more lumber. Anyone have anything to add there? Also would have to change my grinding wheel to grind .404. Anyone ever run carbide chain for milling? I've considered trying a loop, but then need a diamond wheel to sharpen it.

Also, what setups are most running with saws like this? .404, 3/8 (.050 or .063?), what brand, length, etc? 47" appears to be the max in a Stihl bar in 3/8. I've looked at some of the GB and Cannon double ended bars, that can be used with a helper handle, but they don't all appear to be readily available. I've also considered getting a second 661 to run on a double ended bar, instead of one large saw. Not sure how that would work out.
 

SawAddictedFarmer

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I've been using my MS661c and a Granberg 36" mill for over 10 years now. I've milled hundreds of boards with it, and have saved thousands of dollars in lumber costs. I mostly mill hardwoods like oak, ash, hickory, walnut. I usually run an RM chain, filed at 15*. I have found that setup to work pretty well for me. I get a few cuts before having to resharpen, which I only use a grinder on, so that means pulling the chain, and grinding it. The saw will cut anything under 24", but as you get over that, it starts to slow down quite a bit. I now have access to a ~48" white oak, that is just too nice to turn into firewood, but it's too big for my 661 setup. I've been looking at 881s and 3120s for many years now. Of course, I wish I bought them when they were hundreds of dollars cheaper. I wish I had just started with an 880/3120 from the get go, but you live and learn. While I am a "Stihl guy", I don't dislike Husky...there just aren't many dealers around here these days, and saws and parts have to be mail ordered. I've read the pros and cons of the two saws, and I'm probably leaning towards the 881, unless there is some reason I'm missing. I wouldn't use a 3120 without a high speed needle installed, unless I can be certain that it won't ever run too lean. I can get a small discount on the 881 from a local dealer, but its still close to a grand more than the Husky. It comes with a .404 41" bar. I feel like I need a 48" bar at the minimum, and I was thinking of staying with 3/8 chain, and maybe running full skip, or at least half skip. I feel like the .404 will sap more power and waste more lumber. Anyone have anything to add there? Also would have to change my grinding wheel to grind .404. Anyone ever run carbide chain for milling? I've considered trying a loop, but then need a diamond wheel to sharpen it.

Also, what setups are most running with saws like this? .404, 3/8 (.050 or .063?), what brand, length, etc? 47" appears to be the max in a Stihl bar in 3/8. I've looked at some of the GB and Cannon double ended bars, that can be used with a helper handle, but they don't all appear to be readily available. I've also considered getting a second 661 to run on a double ended bar, instead of one large saw. Not sure how that would work out.
Believe me I'm a Stihl guy 100% but I wouldn't even have to think about it if I had to choose between the 3120 and 881. The 3120 wins. I believe Mastermind did a post on adding the high screw but I can't find it. @huskihl @Stump Shot?
 

Stump Shot

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Believe me I'm a Stihl guy 100% but I wouldn't even have to think about it if I had to choose between the 3120 and 881. The 3120 wins. I believe Mastermind did a post on adding the high screw but I can't find it. @huskihl @Stump Shot?
@huskihl can add a Hi adjustment screw to a 3120xp carburetor.
 

huskihl

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Believe me I'm a Stihl guy 100% but I wouldn't even have to think about it if I had to choose between the 3120 and 881. The 3120 wins. I believe Mastermind did a post on adding the high screw but I can't find it. @huskihl @Stump Shot?

I can add the h jet
 

jmester

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I have ran both saws not in milling applications. But in felling and bucking I would go with the 3120. Plus if it is a 1000 cheaper. That is money towards high speed adjustment screw and bar and chain. Grinding wheels and whatever else maybe needed. Plus the 3120 has the extra oil lever.
 

EFSM

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I've been using my MS661c and a Granberg 36" mill for over 10 years now. I've milled hundreds of boards with it, and have saved thousands of dollars in lumber costs. I mostly mill hardwoods like oak, ash, hickory, walnut. I usually run an RM chain, filed at 15*. I have found that setup to work pretty well for me. I get a few cuts before having to resharpen, which I only use a grinder on, so that means pulling the chain, and grinding it. The saw will cut anything under 24", but as you get over that, it starts to slow down quite a bit. I now have access to a ~48" white oak, that is just too nice to turn into firewood, but it's too big for my 661 setup. I've been looking at 881s and 3120s for many years now. Of course, I wish I bought them when they were hundreds of dollars cheaper. I wish I had just started with an 880/3120 from the get go, but you live and learn. While I am a "Stihl guy", I don't dislike Husky...there just aren't many dealers around here these days, and saws and parts have to be mail ordered. I've read the pros and cons of the two saws, and I'm probably leaning towards the 881, unless there is some reason I'm missing. I wouldn't use a 3120 without a high speed needle installed, unless I can be certain that it won't ever run too lean. I can get a small discount on the 881 from a local dealer, but its still close to a grand more than the Husky. It comes with a .404 41" bar. I feel like I need a 48" bar at the minimum, and I was thinking of staying with 3/8 chain, and maybe running full skip, or at least half skip. I feel like the .404 will sap more power and waste more lumber. Anyone have anything to add there? Also would have to change my grinding wheel to grind .404. Anyone ever run carbide chain for milling? I've considered trying a loop, but then need a diamond wheel to sharpen it.

Also, what setups are most running with saws like this? .404, 3/8 (.050 or .063?), what brand, length, etc? 47" appears to be the max in a Stihl bar in 3/8. I've looked at some of the GB and Cannon double ended bars, that can be used with a helper handle, but they don't all appear to be readily available. I've also considered getting a second 661 to run on a double ended bar, instead of one large saw. Not sure how that would work out.

I have almost no experience with chainsaw milling due to having a band mill. Running two saws on one bar sounds like something feasible as long as you have a way to connect both throttles together.

I have a feeling that a carbide chain will wear out from stretching way before the teeth are shot. If you have the moolah to cough up for one, let us know how it goes.

Milling with an expensive chainsaw mill setup can get close enough to a cheap used band mill that I would seriously consider shopping for one. However, if you’re looking for something to cut 48”, that will take a lot of dough to get a band mill that big.
 

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JimG.

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I have a homemade frame on a stock 394 that has handled 48" cuts in hard maple just fine. setup is 3/8 - 050 - 10* - full chisel round filed, full comp, aux. oiler. thrubolted bar tip. 25-1 mix.
Adding a winch with paracord to it was a big help.
I built a bandsaw mill so I only break this thing out for the rare remote or oversized log now. Or if I need to suffer to atone for some misdeed.
394 on mill.jpg
 

SawAddictedFarmer

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I have a homemade frame on a stock 394 that has handled 48" cuts in hard maple just fine. setup is 3/8 - 050 - 10* - full chisel round filed, full comp, aux. oiler. thrubolted bar tip. 25-1 mix.
Adding a winch with paracord to it was a big help.
I built a bandsaw mill so I only break this thing out for the rare remote or oversized log now. Or if I need to suffer to atone for some misdeed.
View attachment 483604
I don't suppose you'd care to share pictures of how your mill is built?
 

Seachaser

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I have an LT15 Wide. If I were to go bigger I would build one like the Mathew Cremona on YouTube. I tried chainsaw milling. It was too slow for me. To each his own.
 
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