Best frame to start a play saw build?

[jacob j.]

Outside my wheel house. I don’t even know the model numbers. It also seems hard to source parts. But I thought about it.

If cost is a factor, then the Mac Kart saw or an Echo 1201 isn't on the table, unless you got a friend that can get you into one cheap. A decent used 101 motor usually runs around $500-750 and
then getting a good chassis can be problematic. Even some of the newer big saws haven't been out long enough yet for a guy to be able to find cheap builders. It seems like every used 661 I see
ends up going for top dollar, especially if it's a V2, V3, or later.

 

[TreeLife]

But they got rid of the manual adjust carb. It wouldn't be so bad if they had both carbs available.

I know. The 661 is available in both m tron and standard carb.

 

[Ketchup]

If cost is a factor, then the Mac Kart saw or an Echo 1201 isn't on the table, unless you got a friend that can get you into one cheap. A decent used 101 motor usually runs around $500-750 and
then getting a good chassis can be problematic. Even some of the newer big saws haven't been out long enough yet for a guy to be able to find cheap builders. It seems like every used 661 I see
ends up going for top dollar, especially if it's a V2, V3, or later.

Yeah. Displacement costs money. And Stihls cost extra.

 

[stihl livin]

i like that idea!!!

tell Matt to get on building a chain then?

 

[Nutball]

I'd convert the 1201 clutch to run a .404 8t rim

 

[drf256]

Adding price in, I’d vote 395XP. It just gets it done, far from a glamour saw in any way.

The front adjust and clutch are a pita for sure, but they are quite incredible saws. Plus, you can get a new OEM top end kit for around $100 if you choose to experiment.

The 3120 takes a lot more work to get performance from and is also much bigger and pricier. Needs porting, adjustable carb conversion and a coil swap (which is more/less work depending on which 3120 model you get).

I’m a Stihlhead but the 395 comes out when there is big cutting work that just needs to be done. No part of mine is fun, except for when I am done with the work in short order. I’ll pull the Stihl’s out for noodling so they don’t feel left out.

 

[Ketchup]

I have a ported 395 and my experience is very similar. We have a love/hate relationship. Mostly because of the hard starts when cold, but only a fool likes the chain adjuster. It’s sort of the opposite of a play saw. All hard work and struggle. I’ll have to think about how to change that.

 

[Nutball]

I watched a DVD on logging techniques, and they mentioned that sometimes when cutting giant redwoods, the saw could get pinched, and if wedges and tugging don't free it, take the power head off the bar and get another bar. How do you do that with a 395? I'm surprised it's clutch and tensioner design have lasted so long.

 

[Stump Shot]

I watched a DVD on logging techniques, and they mentioned that sometimes when cutting giant redwoods, the saw could get pinched, and if wedges and tugging don't free it, take the power head off the bar and get another bar. How do you do that with a 395? I'm surprised it's clutch and tensioner design have lasted so long.

I would hazard to say that you would either pop a link in the chain to free it from the bar, or get another saw rig.

 

[thinair]

I watched a DVD on logging techniques, and they mentioned that sometimes when cutting giant redwoods, the saw could get pinched, and if wedges and tugging don't free it, take the power head off the bar and get another bar. How do you do that with a 395? I'm surprised it's clutch and tensioner design have lasted so long.

Many 395's got ruined because of this.

 

[jacob j.]

I watched a DVD on logging techniques, and they mentioned that sometimes when cutting giant redwoods, the saw could get pinched, and if wedges and tugging don't free it, take the power head off the bar and get another bar. How do you do that with a 395? I'm surprised it's clutch and tensioner design have lasted so long.

I would hazard to say that you would either pop a link in the chain to free it from the bar, or get another saw rig.

You don't want to do too much tugging on the saw if it's pinched in a set-back tree. Typically, there's enough slack in the chain to get the power head off without too much wrangling. If needed, a guy can take the dawg off the powerhead after the clutch cover is removed to get more slack. If that doesn't work, then the clutch can be removed on external clutch saws to make even more room. I have seen guys get internal-clutch saws stuck so tight that they had to take their axe and break the chain in order to get everything apart.

I always carried enough tools in my nosebag to do whatever I needed to do in the brush in regard to getting a stuck saw freed. You always carry an extra bar and chain for that reason. Usually I'd run a 32" bar and chain and my extra would be a 36". If your partner is close enough by, then they can come and give you a hand.

 

[wap13]

Obviously a different animal but I have had a 550 (external clutch) pinched and was able to remove the power head by only removing the clutch cover and nothing else.

 

[drf256]

The outboard clutch is a plus for milling. The heat doesn’t get transferred back into the saw body as much.

Don’t know of any other benefits.

 

[Ketchup]

It’s all about heat to me.
It keeps oil off the clutch and cools the drum. There is also less debris packing around the oiler. 395 also has a nice, beefy crank, so it kind of beats out a 660 for milling and other long bar cuts.

A chain tensioner inside the dogs is just antiquated. I’ve thought about modding the clutch cover to house a tensioner but I have too many other projects and my welding skills aren’t at that level.

 

[tickbitintn]

It’s all about heat to me.
It keeps oil off the clutch and cools the drum. There is also less debris packing around the oiler. 395 also has a nice, beefy crank, so it kind of beats out a 660 for milling and other long bar cuts.

A chain tensioner inside the dogs is just antiquated. I’ve thought about modding the clutch cover to house a tensioner but I have too many other projects and my welding skills aren’t at that level.

I can't believe someone hasn't already done that yet!

 

[Armbru84]

Based on the race/play saw poll I would go with the 3120. At the end of the day if your after speed...that’s where it is.

 

[Cooper264]

From a not so experienced standpoint I would go with a 660 platform. There is probably more info out their on playing and working on a 660 than any other that i have found. Parts for piddling and experimenting are the cheapest and most available of any saw, different year parts change over very easily, and they are pretty easy to work on. would love to play with a 390 or a 3120 husky but they are simply out of my knowledge range, there for experimenting is out of my price range. And the echo 1201, I read through a post about a few guys doing porting on them, WAYYYY above my head. I'de buy an oem case for a 660 and go from there

 

[thinair]

You’ve seen a 592? Did ya get any pics?

Yes i have saw one, but Not allowed to post pictures of it yet...

 

[Tim N]

If parts were more available I'd vote for an 084

 

[Nutball]

I can't believe someone hasn't already done that yet!

I think our local professional over thinker posted somewhere about having tried it, or found it too difficult or impractical. Maybe there wasn't quite enough space.