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Beginner put bar oil in an Echo CS590 cleaned but not running correctly

Czed

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Hello group, today I went out and took the carb off and took it apart one thing I noticed, I did not put the (what I'll call the float, hinged part that holds the needle valve with a spring) I did have that fork installed incorrectly, I cleaned it out (the carb) I pulled the vent out of the tank took it apart maybe the foam had oil in it but I cleaned it and the foam looked much larger. I was careful to look at the gaskets and see if I did something incorrectly but the holes match up with the carb body. I sprayed the cleaner (brake and carb into the hoses/jets I not at full blast but I saw fluid coming out.

I was 100% sure it would work and hell no, it would only start with starter fluid, or I poured some gas down and it ran and it runs high RPM for 10 sec. then dies.... being a lefty I'm having issues with starting it as I do it from the other side I can't get the right hand to pull correctly anyway, I'm not getting gas flowing it will start on the 3-4 kick then run 3-8 sec. then dies then I cannot start it for a 10 min. but to be honest, I don't have the right muscles or lack of muscles to pull at the speed you need so I'm not sure if I'm just being weak and not able to give it 7-8 strong pulls or if something is still wrong. I'm going to re-read the posts and try to narrow this down. I can't understand how I can hold the throttle wfo and start it when I have to hold the saw with one hand and pull maybe a zip tie which I will try now. I'm not kidding you guys I'm getting really pissed off because I'm not that stupid, and I'm not as weak as it seems in this situation... but damn I don't get this issue. The carb has only 3-4 parts I might go ahead and replace the hoses.... jesus
Use the decomp
And are you familiar with drop starting?
 

Nutball

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Chasing down carb problems and other bad running issues is a real pain, I hate doing it.

I recently blew the check valve out of a 590 carb with carb cleaner, I didn't know that could be done. The little rubber disk (valve hidden in the main brass jet) also warped from the carb cleaner, I didn't know carb cleaner could hurt a carb. I got the valve back in, but if I let it sit and idle it will idle faster and leaner over 3-10 seconds and die. It will cut at full throttle if I can get it up to full throttle.

Starting at full throttle can be done by placing the bar on a log, holding full throttle with one hand, and pulling the rope with another. Sometimes I can get my right foot far enough in the handle to push the trigger up with my toe.

Pull the red needle valve caps out: Turn the needles all the way rich CCW, carefully screw a little wood screw into one until it turns, try to get the screw in a fraction of a turn more. Friction should allow you to turn that needle all the way rich CCW again without backing out. Once in the full CCW position pull the red cap out by the screw. Once both caps are off, screw the needles in CW until gently seated, then back out the H 1 turn, and the L 1 -3/4 turns. Put the carb on and try starting it.
 

Czed

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With the new carb installed put a little mix in the cylinder
Hold it wfo and pull the piss out of it
If it starts
That should clear the cylinder.
 

Locust Cutter

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@dfphoto Don't feel too' bad. I've been running power saws for 27 years, and recently f-'ed up and did the same thing wit y little Eco 2511T. Luckily, I was able to pour it out, rinse out the tank a few times, and it lit right off, smoked like hell for about a minute but otherwise was perfect.

As a way to make things easier, if you have an old salad dressing, or similar squeeze bottle, that's clean, pour some mix into that, and trickle it into the carb as needed, until you get the fuel system un-fouled. I'd also study to carb IPL, to make sure that you got everything precisely correct, as minute discrepancies add up fast with things, unlike dirt bike carbs.
 

dfphoto

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Hi again, this morning I will take the carb out, I'm going to check the hoses again, I will double check the diaphram and make sure I put the gaskets in the correct way (best I can, I have a parts diagram so I will hope it's correct. The new carb will not arrive until Tuesday or Wed same with my new saw and the carb rebuild kit... One of you mentioned removing the limiter and adjusting but I don't have the tool to remove that limiter. I'm wondering if I should try lemon juice and soaking the carb I learned this from an engineer on my Mikuni carbs. Here's the parts diagram I don't see a lot of parts that remove but I did not remove the screen so I will check that closely...

Again, thanks to all
BTW... When I put the bar oil in, I started it up it ran for 10" then died I tried starting it for 5-6 pulls then I realized. I dumped the oil then put a full tank swirled and dumped did that 2 x the other times I filled the tank about 1/3-1/2 then I pulled the carb to clean it, then I replaced the fuel filter then I took the carb apart each time it runs for a few seconds it does not smoke a lot just about the normal amount one time when the well guy was here it ran for 20-30 sec. but when I hit the throttle to cut a limb it died and never would start again until did all the processes above. I'm disappointed you cannot completely disassemble the carb seems a bit odd.

Hopefully I can get it today the city is coming on Monday to pick up branches and my GF lost 7 trees at the tree people charge 1200 per load so getting this fixed is important but she has about 5 problems a day and contractors here everyday just a zoo nightmare... I honestly cannot believe the east coast and all the maintenance you have how can anyone enjoy themselves... In Los Angeles it's 6000 ft lot some lawn mowing maybe trim a bush and you're at the beach drinking...
 

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Nutball

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Removing part #13 is easy, see my description above. It is possible that the new carb may not be quite tuned right for your location. What I find runs well around here is 3/4 turns out on the H screw, and 1-3/4 out on the L. You might start just a touch richer if it ends up cutting out and weak on power.
 

Likesaws

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Sounds tome like it is flooding. Be sure to check needle seat and leaver adjustments, with proper spring placement when you reassemble. It’s very easy to for the spring to come out of place. I use a very small dab of grease to hold it in place on reassemble. Carb cleaner will be very hard on rubber and foam parts plus painted services. I’m sure with patience you will get this if not the new carb will fix it and you can rebuild this on when you have time.
The Echo’s are very good saws good choice.
Takes time and patience I was a newbie hear once and have learned a lot and have fixed several small engines with help here. Lots of great people and knowledge here.
 

Al Smith

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I might have been the one to have suggested to remove the limiters .I did in fact do that on a small Echo a few years ago but I forgot exactly how they were made .Makes no diff I've never failed to defeat them no matter how they were made or who made them .They were not so lean as to hang the engine but it could not reach full power the way they were set .Too bad because it was a nice little saw after it was tuned correctly .
It caused a lot of frustration for the owner .
On that design some have tabs you can either either cut off or retuned the saw and press back on .Some have oddly shaped shafts you can actually buy little screwdriver type of tools to access which aren't very expensive .Often times in a pinch you can turn them with a piece of fuel line .Try as they might so far the only way they can make them fool proof is with a fixed jet .I think they have discontinued that practice .
 

dfphoto

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Okay live I blew all the hoses and filter all flowing here is the carb in pictures
 

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dfphoto

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I checked the spring good action I noticed the diaphram and cover need to install in one certain direction not sure if i noticed that before
 

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full chizel

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Chasing down carb problems and other bad running issues is a real pain, I hate doing it.

I recently blew the check valve out of a 590 carb with carb cleaner, I didn't know that could be done. The little rubber disk (valve hidden in the main brass jet) also warped from the carb cleaner, I didn't know carb cleaner could hurt a carb. I got the valve back in, but if I let it sit and idle it will idle faster and leaner over 3-10 seconds and die. It will cut at full throttle if I can get it up to full throttle.

Starting at full throttle can be done by placing the bar on a log, holding full throttle with one hand, and pulling the rope with another
. Sometimes I can get my right foot far enough in the handle to push the trigger up with my toe.

Pull the red needle valve caps out: Turn the needles all the way rich CCW, carefully screw a little wood screw into one until it turns, try to get the screw in a fraction of a turn more. Friction should allow you to turn that needle all the way rich CCW again without backing out. Once in the full CCW position pull the red cap out by the screw. Once both caps are off, screw the needles in CW until gently seated, then back out the H 1 turn, and the L 1 -3/4 turns. Put the carb on and try starting it.

Whats gonna happen when the saw fires at WFO on the log holding it with one hand?
 

dfphoto

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Ok here is the other side parts 28-30 gaskets had to make sure they are positioned correctly

now i want to re-read the high low adj I have never touched but i will see if it will start
 

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dfphoto

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Ok so bought a new plug but since I am in a small town no one carries the correct plug, got one step hotter and no start I see spark I smell gas on the plug but not even close to starting I am absolutely pissed off. I was going to take it to a shop but 2-3 week turnaround that’s why I spent 100 on the oem carb, if you have any suggestions let me know before i jump.

btw GF has zero confidence so she says new car will not work tell me that doesnt dig into your eyeballs like a hot stick
 
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SOS Ridgerider

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Ok so ne plug but since Im in a small town no one carries the correct pmug got one step hotter and no start i see spark i smell gas on the plug but not even close to starting Im absolutely pissed off.. i was goi g to take it to a shop but 2-3 week turnaround thats why i soent 100 on the oem carb if you have any suggestions let me know before i jump
What town in CT are you in? If you’re close to me I could try and help you out.
 

dfphoto

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What an offer, but what are the odds I am at Woodbridge CT 06525 but I would be happy to come to you and I would be happy to pay and bring food and drinks any day except this Tuesday.

thanks dave
 

SOS Ridgerider

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What an offer, but what are the odds I am at Woodbridge CT 06525 but I would be happy to come to you and I would be happy to pay and bring food and drinks any day except this Tuesday.

thanks dave
You’re about 45 minutes to an hour away. I’m in Manchester. I’d be happy to help.
Can’t guarantee a success, but it’s worth a shot. Pm me, and we’ll set something up.
 

Czed

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You’re about 45 minutes to an hour away. I’m in Manchester. I’d be happy to help.
Can’t guarantee a success, but it’s worth a shot. Pm me, and we’ll set something up.
Wfo pull it until it starts
 
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