Beginner put bar oil in an Echo CS590 cleaned but not running correctly

[LouCi4er]

What Lee H said.The lever should be level with the carb body.Yours seem way above carb body.Take a small screw driver and hold down the needle.Then push the edge of the lever down until it is level with carb body.Work the lever a couple of times with your finger and check if it is level.Then assemble the carb and fire the saw.

 

[dfphoto]

Hard to tell in these pic's but that lever looks way to high to me. You may be flooding your saw.

Lee, sorry I was busy yesterday, could you tell me what picture or what lever you are referring to, I did not adjust any levers unless I'm missing something. I will try the hold the gas WFO and start it.

 

[Czed]

Lee, sorry I was busy yesterday, could you tell me what picture or what lever you are referring to, I did not adjust any levers unless I'm missing something. I will try the hold the gas WFO and start it.

Here's a good pic the lever can't be above the body

 

[Lee H]

Lee, sorry I was busy yesterday, could you tell me what picture or what lever you are referring to, I did not adjust any levers unless I'm missing something. I will try the hold the gas WFO and start it.

In your post #30 the top right pic. The lever that the diaphragm pushes down
on to lift the needle to let fuel in. it looks way high to me so when the carb is
assembled the diaphragm maybe keeping the needle open all the time.

 

[fearofpavement]

The needle height may be the issue.

I didn't see anyone suggest it but I'd remove the muffler and try starting the saw.

Also I would recommend completely emptying the fuel tank. Pull the spark plug and pull the saw over a bunch of times to get the fuel out of the carb. Once you have it all emptied out, put in a dry plug and try starting the saw. (don't add fuel) If the saw is badly flooded, there will probably be enough residual fuel for the saw to pop or perhaps run a few seconds. Then put a few drops of fuel directly into the carb and try starting the saw. See if it starts and runs for about 3 seconds. Do it again. If it will start and run for a few seconds each time, then you definitely have a flooding issue and will need to figure out why.

 

[Czed]

You’re about 45 minutes to an hour away. I’m in Manchester. I’d be happy to help.
Can’t guarantee a success, but it’s worth a shot. Pm me, and we’ll set something up.

Is it fixed yet?

 

[SOS Ridgerider]

Is it fixed yet?

He's waiting for a new carb to see if that does the trick. If it doesn't we'll get together and take a look.

 

[dfphoto]

Hello to all who have been waiting, holding their breath... I got the new carb and I took the plate off to check the spring and lever height and to my surprise it was the same as my setup. BTW there is only one slot for the fork to go into, meaning the lever goes up not level. However, when I put the rubber diaphragm on that seems to flaten the spring and sits level. Now that I think about it when I took the carb apart the first time the lever was level not up a little weird since you guys think it should be level. Not sure what to think but I cleaned the carb out again gently and put it back together, and got damn it started 1st pull then it died but I got it running didn't sound great but it cleaned up. Maybe I should have pulled the muffler like "fearofpavement" mentioned above. It died a few times but I was able to get it started again each time. Not as smooth as pre-bar oil but I'm going to give it try later today to make sure all is good.

I cannot believe how kind all of you are, never experienced this much help on a forum so thank you to all of you. Generous big hearts you all have.

What I find interesting is the carb rebuild kit has a lot of parts and I was given a link to the carb mfc website and it has a service manual. https://www.walbro.com/service-manuals/ download HDA for the 60cc 590. I haven't had a chance to look at it closely but I will I don't understand how to access those parts.

Lastly, I cannot believe how much time and pain putting bar oil caused me, the only good thing is finding this website, and taking the carb apart 10x has taught me a lot about these little engines...

Thanks a lot again, Dave

 

[Nutball]

It might be time to learn to tune a saw engine to better avoid the rough running and dying. Those carbs can be a bit lean from the factory which could be a problem in cool weather, or higher oil mixes like 32:1.

 

[dfphoto]

Hi all, learned something today with oir Poulan pro carb. (Of course I have a new problem there). So back to my needle lever height On the Poulan I noticed the lever was even as the one pister said but when I put it back together the lever was up until I tightened the screw that holds the bar down as I tightened the bar the lever sat down to level. Tomorrow I will test that concept.. I do need to learn how to tune a saw no doubt.

 

[Nutball]

That makes sense. Of course you want the screws all properly tightened. That one being loose would let the bar and lever get pushed up by the spring.

 

[Czed]

http://www.madsens1.com/saw_carb_tune.htm

 

[Czed]