Briggs 190cc

[Bud Fleury]

Hi all, I’m new here and I’m looking for advice. I have a Briggs 190cc w automatic choke. Neighbor brought it over and said no start so I removed air filter and sprayed some brake clean into carb and it started up but when I shut it off it wouldn’t restart unless I sprayed a little more brake clean. So I bought an Amazon Chinese carb for $15 and put it on. It stayed fine but the exact same thing on restart unless I sprayed some brake cleaner again so I got another carb (new but same brand) and it does exact the same thing when I try to restart. I swapped out the plug, ordered and put in a new coil, the same thing. Help me please. Thanks

 

[hacskaroly]

Neighbor brought it over and said no start so I removed air filter and sprayed some brake clean into carb and it started up but when I shut it off it wouldn’t restart unless I sprayed a little more brake clean.

Is the fuel pickup clogged? Is the impulse blocked or any of the rubber parts cracked preventing the vacuum pull of the fuel from the tank to the carb? How long does the motor run after you use the brake spray? Does it quit right away or keep going. If you can get it started, if you dribble fuel down the carb will it keep going? I have a BS motor on my tiller and I think I have a leak that is preventing the vacuum. Two of my rubber boots are cracked.

With the three things you need, sounds like you have spark and compression, but does not sound like fuel is getting to the carb. That is where I would check next.

 

[EFSM]

First, welcome to the forum!
This sounds like it could be an automatic choke problem. Make sure the choke is closing as far as it can go. There is a little black lever on top of the carburetor that moves the choke shaft. Make sure that is oriented properly and has the return spring attached. Most of these engines have a thermostat on the muffler that operates this lever. Some of the others have an air vane. Whatever the case, make sure there is nothing restricting the movement of the choke mechanism.
Or it could be that the original carburetor was partly clogged. I don't trust aftermarket carburetors on these engines. I just replaced one on a customer's mower because it ran very rough. There is basically nothing to go wrong with the original Briggs carburetors other than getting a clogged main or idle jet, which is in the white jet insert inside the bowl.
One more thing: on most of these engines there is a venturi insert (a restrictor in the throat of the carburetor). If someone had the carburetor apart before you, it could have been lost. Not likely, but possible.

 

[GMB74]

You have some good advise here to get you started.
Can you post the Model and Spec numbers from the engine so we can see what style of choke this particular engine has?

 

[Bud Fleury]

First, welcome to the forum!
This sounds like it could be an automatic choke problem. Make sure the choke is closing as far as it can go. There is a little black lever on top of the carburetor that moves the choke shaft. Make sure that is oriented properly and has the return spring attached. Most of these engines have a thermostat on the muffler that operates this lever. Some of the others have an air vane. Whatever the case, make sure there is nothing restricting the movement of the choke mechanism.
Or it could be that the original carburetor was partly clogged. I don't trust aftermarket carburetors on these engines. I just replaced one on a customer's mower because it ran very rough. There is basically nothing to go wrong with the original Briggs carburetors other than getting a clogged main or idle jet, which is in the white jet insert inside the bowl.
One more thing: on most of these engines there is a venturi insert (a restrictor in the throat of the carburetor). If someone had the carburetor apart before you, it could have been lost. Not likely, but possible.

The first aftermarket carb, besides not starting when warm ran to fast and the second same brand carb besides also not starting when warm was searching (rpm wise) so I took apart and cleaned up the original one. Its original problem was it wouldn’t start when cold. Now it starts on second pull but still won’t start when warmed up for a couple of minutes.

 

[Bud Fleury]

The first aftermarket carb, besides not starting when warm ran to fast and the second same brand carb besides also not starting when warm was searching (rpm wise) so I took apart and cleaned up the original one. Its original problem was it wouldn’t start when cold. Now it starts on second pull but still won’t start when warmed up for a couple of minutes.

 

[Coupe]

Just a thought you can get a little light that plugs into your ignition.
You pull the plug boot off and one end plugs in there and the
other goes onto the plug. It could be that while it is running it
will be okay but when it get hot your coil could be breaking down.
And if so this little gadget will show no spark when trying to start.
Had a friend bring a stihl chainsaw around doing just what your
motor is doing and got it hot and would not start so put my
little light in the line and sure enough no spark.
Put a new coil on and he is away it went
I have just repaired a husky saw foe a guy and the coil would spark for
about a minute and die so new coil fixed that.
T am not saying this is your problem but may be worth a look.

 

[Bud Fleury]

I picked up a free 190cc yesterday that didn’t run. Sprayed some brake clean in carb and it ran so I thought i would clean out carb. Took it off and cleaned and put back together. I noticed that the spring on the exhaust manifold was much stronger than mine but just want to get it running and I would go from there. Anyway the donor started on the second pull and ran it until the automatic choke opened then I shut it down and it also wouldn’t start unless I would choke it. So now I have two Briggs 190cc that do the same identical thing when warm. Now I am really puzzled. One more thing, I only have the carb bolted on, no air filter cover or filter.
Any ideas?

 

[GMB74]

Try it with the proper air filter and cover on. Some of these engines are jetted so lean (for emissions) that they need a little restriction from the air filter to draw more fuel through the jets so they will start. The fact that it starts if you choke it indicates it's not getting enough fuel when cranking.

 

[Bud Fleury]

I will try it first thing in the morning. Thanks

 

[Bud Fleury]

You have some good advise here to get you started.
Can you post the Model and Spec numbers from the engine so we can see what style of choke this particular engine has?

It is the automatic choke version. When I was comparing the original to the donor motor I noticed that the spring on the muffler that holds the choke open when warm was considerably stronger the the original one but after I got the donor back together it acted the same way as original. I also had to choke the donor also to get it started.

 

[Bud Fleury]

For now I will give it back to him so he can mow the grass for the summer and have him wear safety glasses and use a zip tie on the handle to keep it running. I’ll see if I can make anyone sense out of this. Keep sending me ideas please. I have the donor to experiment with. If I find some grime the different people on the forum that fixes the donor then I shall post it here for everyone to see. I’m sure there is an explain this and there is a technician out ther that knows what to do.

 

[Bud Fleury]

To the person that recommended to put the air filter and housing back on, still the same issue.