Bearings check

[angelo c]

i have a few "loggers" 066 bottom ends I have split and removed the bearings from (as a matter of procedure and choice). They seemed to be 'usable' in that they were NOT crunchy or sloppy (within tolerances) when the bearings were "lubricated" . Once the bearings were "cleaned" they rolled like crap. It was only after the case oil was stripped did the bearings show their true wear.
I've read a few threads where a case gets "flushed" with mix before replacing seals and rebuild. My question is does anyone flush with mix, then flush with a "detergent" to verify condition of bearings ?
Yes, the right thing is to replace them on any saw you have questions about usage history, but sometimes you just wanna get the saw back on line fast.
What do y'all do to get a good condition check on bearings. ?

 

[Jughead]

i usually toss them.especially stihl bearings.steel cage skf,nachi etc i will reuse sometimes but only if they feel good turning the saw over.building to resell or a build for somebody the bearings definately get tossed.

 

[mdavlee]

If the crank rolls over easily without lubing before tear down I usually leave them. If a seal is leaking normally the bearing has some slop.

 

[angelo c]

i usually toss them.especially stihl bearings.steel cage skf,nachi etc i will reuse sometimes but only if they feel good turning the saw over.building to resell or a build for somebody the bearings definately get tossed.

the set im talking about did feel good in the saw...soon as I took them out and "cleaned" them they felt crappy.

 

[angelo c]

If the crank rolls over easily without lubing before tear down I usually leave them. If a seal is leaking normally the bearing has some slop.

Makes sense, probably sucked in some schputz through the crappy seal..

 

[CR888]

Put them in a half filled jar of rich 8:1 mix and soak/clean them. Then put on finger and spin to feel roughness and amout of times spinned. Change if they are rough or in doubt.

 

[angelo c]

Put them in a half filled jar of rich 8:1 mix and soak/clean them. Then put on finger and spin to feel roughness and amout of times spinned. Change if they are rough or in doubt.

Completely agree. that's what I had been doing. For some reason I decided to clean the balls out with straight gas, then a 'detergent' and the bearings were crap unless a "lubricant" like 40:1 mix was present. Im wondering if that is a sign of "weakness". or just my over thinking something really thoughtless.

 

[SixGun]

If they are already out of the case I would just change them. Most well used saws have a tiny bit of play but if you get any clicking when moving crank back and forth quickly, they are shot.

 

[Tor R]

If I've split the case, the only bearing I pay attention to is those expensive Husky PTO bearings like slacker 543301 or SKF bb1-3201, first one is NLA the other one cost 40$ in Norway.
6201,6202,6203 goes into the garbage bin no mather what, they cost 5-8% each.

 

[jacob j.]

I see posts all the time where guys mention they cleaned and flushed out the case before installing a new top end. Then, a few days/couple weeks later- I see them make another post where either the saw won't turn over or something has chewed up their new top end. This is almost always related to not switching out the bearings. It's cheap insurance to install new bearings, even if you're unsure of the condition. I'd much rather do that than wipe out a new $200/$300 top end or have an irate customer on the phone.

 

[MustangMike]

On the 460 I'm playin with, the bearings seemed fine, but the saw had been sitting for along time, and I think the crap got thick and concealed the problem. When I flushed the case with mix, and I rotated the crank numerous times, the dumped the mix.

After that is when it did not sound right, and I found play in the crank on the clutch side. The race was completely gone in that bearing.

 

[junkman]

Anyone have any long time feedback on the aftermarket bearings made in china ?

 

[jacob j.]

Anyone have any long time feedback on the aftermarket bearings made in china ?

I have one on the flywheel side in my 046. It was rebuilt in 2011 and has a cylinder machined out by Randy and a Meteor 064 piston. So far, so good. I didn't have Nachi at the shop at the time and I needed the saw for a hazard tree project. It's got about 30 tanks on the China-com bearing and no problems as of yet.

 

[angelo c]

I see posts all the time where guys mention they cleaned and flushed out the case before installing a new top end. Then, a few days/couple weeks later- I see them make another post where either the saw won't turn over or something has chewed up their new top end. This is almost always related to not switching out the bearings. It's cheap insurance to install new bearings, even if you're unsure of the condition. I'd much rather do that than wipe out a new $200/$300 top end or have an irate customer on the phone.

Exactly JJ. I think you've told me before(especially now with the Stihl proprietary bearings being so cheap) ....just change them, do enough and you get good at it.

 

[angelo c]

On the 460 I'm playin with, the bearings seemed fine, but the saw had been sitting for along time, and I think the crap got thick and concealed the problem. When I flushed the case with mix, and I rotated the crank numerous times, the dumped the mix.

After that is when it did not sound right, and I found play in the crank on the clutch side. The race was completely gone in that bearing.

Your post reminded me Mike.

 

[panteliss]

I always change them if i notice even a small problem with them

 

[beaglebriar]

If the top end burned up I change everything. Still do a leakdown test first though.

 

[Pioneer Perry]

I always change them out, that way I know what I got .
If you have torn it down just toss it bearings aren't cheap but the insurance of knowing better is.

 

[Adirondackstihl]

If the case is split......the bearings are sh!t

 

[smokey7]

"If the gloves don't fit you must aquit" lol