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Need guidance, my 036 fell out of boom lift.

72thing

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Boy, it's been a few years since I've been on here-- haven't really messed with saws in a while since I moved and don't burn wood anymore.

I was taking down some trees from a boom lift, and unfortunately the bar got pinched and the limb pulled saw from my hands. I watched it fall about 40' and land on a chunk of red oak. I was pretty upset, but after I took it apart, it looked like the only damage was to recoil, handlebar, and tank. The cases looked fine and I didn't see any cracks or broken magnesium.

20230218_135412.jpg

20230218_135418.jpg

I got some used parts off eBay, cleaned them up, and started to install the recoil. This is when I realized the saw was locked up. Mostly locked up... It will reluctantly turn a few degrees then lock up completely.
Well crap. It hit so hard on the recoil that I suspect that it bent the crank. I've never split cases before, but have watched several videos on it and it doesn't seem too bad. I was planning on getting OEM gasket set, which has crank seals.
Stoopid question: should I get new crank bearings? I don't know how likely they are to get damaged from disassembly.
If so, is aftermarket ok, or are they all chinesium? It looks like one side is available in SKF, but not sure about the other side.
I'm definitely open to advice on this, having never burnt this bridge before.

Also, would it be bad to put a thin coat of motoseal on the case halves (with the gasket of course) when reassembling? Or is this completely unnecessary?

I need a good used crank, but a little afraid of one from eBay because it's hard to see pics close enough to see if seal surfaces are ok, and afraid big end rod bearing could be no good. Anybody have a good 036 crank they need to get rid of?

This was my first saw and I definitely want to get it going again.
Thank y'all for any help.
 

Loony661

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That’s unfortunate. My first thought is that if the saw impacted hard enough to bend the crankshaft, the crankshaft bearings also felt that extremely high side load. If the saw was mine, I would install new crank bearings - OEM if possible.

You might be surprised what you find upon disassembly though, I wouldn’t get too excited until you tear the saw apart to truly inspect the internals for damage.
 

farminkarman

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Boy, it's been a few years since I've been on here-- haven't really messed with saws in a while since I moved and don't burn wood anymore.

I was taking down some trees from a boom lift, and unfortunately the bar got pinched and the limb pulled saw from my hands. I watched it fall about 40' and land on a chunk of red oak. I was pretty upset, but after I took it apart, it looked like the only damage was to recoil, handlebar, and tank. The cases looked fine and I didn't see any cracks or broken magnesium.

View attachment 366890

View attachment 366891

I got some used parts off eBay, cleaned them up, and started to install the recoil. This is when I realized the saw was locked up. Mostly locked up... It will reluctantly turn a few degrees then lock up completely.
Well crap. It hit so hard on the recoil that I suspect that it bent the crank. I've never split cases before, but have watched several videos on it and it doesn't seem too bad. I was planning on getting OEM gasket set, which has crank seals.
Stoopid question: should I get new crank bearings? I don't know how likely they are to get damaged from disassembly.
If so, is aftermarket ok, or are they all chinesium? It looks like one side is available in SKF, but not sure about the other side.
I'm definitely open to advice on this, having never burnt this bridge before.

Also, would it be bad to put a thin coat of motoseal on the case halves (with the gasket of course) when reassembling? Or is this completely unnecessary?

I need a good used crank, but a little afraid of one from eBay because it's hard to see pics close enough to see if seal surfaces are ok, and afraid big end rod bearing could be no good. Anybody have a good 036 crank they need to get rid of?

This was my first saw and I definitely want to get it going again.
Thank y'all for any help.
If it were mine, I would try doing a vac test on the crankcase before tearing it apart. With that kind of hit, your crankcase might have some unseen damage.
 

Stevetheboatguy

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Boy, it's been a few years since I've been on here-- haven't really messed with saws in a while since I moved and don't burn wood anymore.

I was taking down some trees from a boom lift, and unfortunately the bar got pinched and the limb pulled saw from my hands. I watched it fall about 40' and land on a chunk of red oak. I was pretty upset, but after I took it apart, it looked like the only damage was to recoil, handlebar, and tank. The cases looked fine and I didn't see any cracks or broken magnesium.

View attachment 366890

View attachment 366891

I got some used parts off eBay, cleaned them up, and started to install the recoil. This is when I realized the saw was locked up. Mostly locked up... It will reluctantly turn a few degrees then lock up completely.
Well crap. It hit so hard on the recoil that I suspect that it bent the crank. I've never split cases before, but have watched several videos on it and it doesn't seem too bad. I was planning on getting OEM gasket set, which has crank seals.
Stoopid question: should I get new crank bearings? I don't know how likely they are to get damaged from disassembly.
If so, is aftermarket ok, or are they all chinesium? It looks like one side is available in SKF, but not sure about the other side.
I'm definitely open to advice on this, having never burnt this bridge before.

Also, would it be bad to put a thin coat of motoseal on the case halves (with the gasket of course) when reassembling? Or is this completely unnecessary?

I need a good used crank, but a little afraid of one from eBay because it's hard to see pics close enough to see if seal surfaces are ok, and afraid big end rod bearing could be no good. Anybody have a good 036 crank they need to get rid of?

This was my first saw and I definitely want to get it going again.
Thank y'all for any help.


Just for grins. Pop the flywheel and check the crank for runout. The problem may just be the flywheel isn't true anymore (bent hub). Worth looking at before you tear it fully apart.


Steven.
 

72thing

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That’s unfortunate. My first thought is that if the saw impacted hard enough to bend the crankshaft, the crankshaft bearings also felt that extremely high side load. If the saw was mine, I would install new crank bearings - OEM if possible.

You might be surprised what you find upon disassembly though, I wouldn’t get too excited until you tear the saw apart to truly inspect the internals for damage.
Yeah that's a good point on bearings getting side loaded, thanks for suggestion. I'm trying not to get my hopes up too much, but really hope cases are OK.


If it were mine, I would try doing a vac test on the crankcase before tearing it apart. With that kind of hit, your crankcase might have some unseen damage.
Didn't think about that, I'll vacuum and pressure test it first, Thanks


Just for grins. Pop the flywheel and check the crank for runout. The problem may just be the flywheel isn't true anymore (bent hub). Worth looking at before you tear it fully apart.


Steven.
This crossed my mind--I popped the flywheel already, but can't tell anything from just looking at it. I can't turn it over enough to check runout. I guess once I tear it apart, I can put it between lathe centers and turn it by hand to see extent of damage.
 

Stevetheboatguy

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Yeah that's a good point on bearings getting side loaded, thanks for suggestion. I'm trying not to get my hopes up too much, but really hope cases are OK.



Didn't think about that, I'll vacuum and pressure test it first, Thanks



This crossed my mind--I popped the flywheel already, but can't tell anything from just looking at it. I can't turn it over enough to check runout. I guess once I tear it apart, I can put it between lathe centers and turn it by hand to see extent of damage.

Take the clutch drum off and remove the spark plug. You will be able to turn the clutch with a deep socket. 3/4 in I believe.


Steven
 

Al Smith

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Face the music ,what you have might be some usable parts .That poor thing is like Humpty Dumpty DOA .Find a friendly Stihl dealer which although rare is possible and look through the "dead pile " .IMO you'll do better doing that than pay either flea bay prices or in fact forum prices .Keep looking and in time you'll amass enough parts to build another saw without having a kings ransom in it
 

Duce

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How much is a great 036 worth? How many parts are needed to make it useable again? I know it’s easy to go upside down and be close to cost of a new saw.
 

72thing

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Face the music ,what you have might be some usable parts .That poor thing is like Humpty Dumpty DOA .Find a friendly Stihl dealer which although rare is possible and look through the "dead pile " .IMO you'll do better doing that than pay either flea bay prices or in fact forum prices .Keep looking and in time you'll amass enough parts to build another saw without having a kings ransom in it
Yep, those are some good points. As long as I don't have to involve the king's horses or men to put it back together. I have to do some looking around and see what I can find.

How much is a great 036 worth? How many parts are needed to make it useable again? I know it’s easy to go upside down and be close to cost of a new saw.
Also great points. I've been down the road of nickel and dime-ing my way to having new saw money in a used saw. Whenever I can get the time, I'm going to vacuum and pressure it, then if it passes, split the cases. If cases are good, then I think all I'll need is a good used crank, bearings, seals, and gaskets. I already have recoil housing, handlebar, and fuel tank.
Thanks for suggestions.
 

drf256

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I have a good crank here when you are ready.

You May want to cut your losses. But a good used 034 for less money than the 036 and swap out your good parts into it.
 

Al Smith

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Since an 036 cylinder change has been mentioned I did that .Some parts like the muffler and the plastic need some modifications .I traded it off for an 805 McCulloch about 12- 15 years ago .From what I hear it's still running like a top .Next to the 028-038-042 the 034 to 044 series are my favorites of the Stihl mid size . They aren't bullet proof but pretty close.
 

drf256

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I see the 026/036/044 series as lightened versions of the venerable 028/038. Not quite as tough, but tough enough.
 

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That unit is ready for the grave yard.
But now you have spare fuel & oil caps, spare muffler, chain break, starter handle, carb, throttle assembly, etc etc..
I would be focusing more on what was done to cause the problem in the 1st place.
No offense, but "boom lift" & "Smashed saw" in the same sentence, raises some concern.
Be safe!
 
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