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Any Cylinder Testers Here?

Jughead

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Getting saw ready for tomorrow, noticed that the studs are not installed on the top of the head. Trying to decide if I should bother running this with the top off or not. Pretty much unserviceable. Guess I'll sleep on it. What do you guys think???
same on mine.definately needs threads and studs.
 

Stump Shot

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I'm really sorry to report that I'm literally unable to proceed with the experiment. There are no holes though the cylinder to work the bolts. I was all ready to go before I noticed.( Enter profanity here) I had all the stock measurements to compare and everything. This is totally unserviceable. I should have followed my first instinct and use lever B. Figured I should do my best though, seeing that I said I would do my best here.

IMG_20170215_112654408.jpg

Piston height from pin to top of dome is .007" less than OEM and FarmerTec. About all that I can pass on.

IMG_20170215_110132625.jpg
 

Jughead

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drill some holes.lol
 

Stump Shot

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@Gentleman , Apologies, sorry I was unable to get any data for you. I think from reading my above posts you can pretty much get what my recommendation is. Did not even make its own thread either, just not enough data to compare. From what I was able to see, there was no way this cylinder was going to perform as good or better than OEM out of the box. Surely if I had a machine shop at my disposal this could have been worked out and ran, but I believe you have what you need to know.
On a separate note, I did use the silver "G" style clips when installing the piston and they were "springy" and returned to shape even after I took them back out.
Saw is all back together again and running just like it was before I took it apart, did some cutting of some slab wood. Really wish this would have went the other way, as I looked forward to the comparison. SS
 

Wilhelm

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I'm really sorry to report that I'm literally unable to proceed with the experiment. There are no holes though the cylinder to work the bolts. I was all ready to go before I noticed.( Enter profanity here) I had all the stock measurements to compare and everything. This is totally unserviceable. I should have followed my first instinct and use lever B. Figured I should do my best though, seeing that I said I would do my best here.

View attachment 55950
LOL :p

Quality control - check...

That's just funny. ;)
 

Stump Shot

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Let's join hands here and I'll walk you though it. For starters let's have a peek at the dangerous spot where the ring will hang up. Then on to the other things you describe where you didn't take a pic to go along with it.

Hard to see, easier to feel, but here it is holding up the piston with no rings, burr is on transfer, never said it would hang a ring up, just that it was hanging the piston up.
I would like to have seen if the rings would have cleared this up, or if piston would have been scuffed.

IMG_20170215_143423217.jpg

IMG_20170215_143548370.jpg
 

Stump Shot

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That transfer looks like it could be worse off than the one Jughead is testing.


Hard to see in the picture, you may be right about that, not that a lot of the problems it had could not be worked out, I wanted to see how well it did right out of the box, like if a regular Joe bought it for his saw, and just installed it as is, what would he get? I was a little bit surprised to say the least, as to the deal with no holes etc. The packaging was very nice looking.
Again, I wish that this went better than it did,. It was however, a failure to launch.
 

Chainsaw Jim

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My ms360 sample just showed up.
Here's a little out of the package description before going any further.
Same story on the transfers with the addition of deep inclusions and a grinding burr bite above one of them.
20170215_141922.jpg 20170215_141953.jpg
The top cover mount holes are drilled and tapped. 20170215_141455.jpg

The squish band is nice and tidy.
20170215_144224.jpg

After initial inspection I'll go ahead and run it as is. I trust what I see as far as safe ride for the rings. If anyone is curious about what kind of sharp edges rings can handle then start studying open port saws. Those things will filet your fingers up pretty good just trying to clean one up.
 
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Chainsaw Jim

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The piston is definitely going to be a concern. The pin to crown height is uneven by about .07, when the oem piston measures dead equal on both sides.
I don't think it'll matter much but the pin is .50 shorter, but it is hardened properly.
The rings are not hard enough. They're not the worst I've ever seen but they have too low of memory and will not maintain good compression after warm up. The pin clips are also too soft and bend too easily.
I'm not thinking it's worth the risk running this piston, rings, or clips in my saw. I'll use an oem piston to test the cylinder.
20170215_145344.jpg
I have @Heffalump's jonsered 80 to finish hopping up before I can do the cylinder test, so it'll be a couple days before I start the thread on this.
 
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Stump Shot

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The piston was milled on the top from one end to the other, not from the middle out like your used to seeing.
 

Chainsaw Jim

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More close ups of the inclusions...20170215_151022.jpg 20170215_151136.jpg

I believe there is a possibility of this thing cracking or breaking apart after long term use. So after putting a little run time in it ill have to inspect the inclusions better by doing some port work on it to find out if they are deep enough to be a danger.
I'm open to requests for any specific pictures that may be wanted.
 

Chainsaw Jim

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The piston was milled on the top from one end to the other, not from the middle out like your used to seeing.
I'm not sure I understand exactly what you mean by that. I didn't eyeball it if that's what you're implying.
I say about .07 because my digital wouldn't decide on .07 or .09
 

Stump Shot

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I'm not sure I understand exactly what you mean by that. I didn't eyeball it if that's what you're implying.
I say about .07 because my digital wouldn't decide on .07 or .09

No implications, was backing up what you said, the piston here is off as well, but not as much as your example. I'll take a picture of the piston when I get back out to shop later and re measure it.
 

Chainsaw Jim

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Hers a pic of the ring land location comparison. The ring thickness is the same 1.3mm as the oem, so oem or caber replacements are an option. 20170215_154336.jpg
 

Stump Shot

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Not sure if you can see the machine marks or not. Only .001" from side to side, but .007" to the OEM, piston pin to top height.

IMG_20170215_193504911.jpg
 
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