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Another cracked bar pad repair.

srcarr52

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Got the new crack finished off. I added a bit of a wing inside the tank for more strength.

I also put a locking insert into the bottom bucking spike hole. It had a helicoil which is an acceptable fix but I wanted it right. I’ve welded these in the past but they are a pain. Really the best fix is these stake locking inserts.

I’ll have to knock the bar pad flat on the mill before I finish off the rest of the bar adjuster area. Then off to powder coat.

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Moparmyway

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Almost had this last crack chased out with the welder... just putting the finishing cap on the weld when I ran out of argon. I'll hit the welding supply shop today.
Last time I filled up my bottles, I grabbed a spare small bottle for when I run out next ........ little sucker set me back a few hundred. Bottles are brutally expensive around here these days. Nice job adding the gusset !!
 

Dustin4185

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Nice job as always! What machine do you run welding these up? Looking at finding a new TIG machine for the shop.
 

srcarr52

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Nice job as always! What machine do you run welding these up? Looking at finding a new TIG machine for the shop.

Lincoln tig 200 at my house, runs off 110 nicely. Lincoln AC/DC tig 300 at the shop, has to be hardwired to your panel.
 

Dustin4185

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Lincoln tig 200 at my house, runs off 110 nicely. Lincoln AC/DC tig 300 at the shop, has to be hardwired to your panel.
Just picked up a “demo” unit at my LWS today. The leads had never been plugged in! I couldn’t see that it had done anything but unboxed. $900 out the door. I ran it some today and it is very smooth for such a small machine. I just needed something at work for light AL and SS work on boats mostly.
 

ucm931

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What....the....*f-word. I just got sucked into that and spent the last 3 hours reading the whole damn thing. What a clusterfuck.
I got about 6 pages deep just now and had to stop. Two major thoughts through my head from that thread;

1. It's infuriating to see just how willing some people are to scam others out of their hard earned money.

2. It's awesome/amazing to see how quick the guys here were willing to spend their own hard earned dollars to help a stranger. This part is a mixed bag tho, because at the same time, it shouldn't have been neccessary.

Back to this thread........I try to give the benefit of the doubt in a lot of situations, but this one isn't passing the smell test. Hopefully, the buyer hears from the seller and there's an explanation that makes us all sit back and say "Yup, that'll do it". Unfortunately, there isn't a good track record of that happening.
 

legdelimber

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Drill bit wanting to track into the voids a little?

I think the most "fun" I ever had with a drilling job, was on a (new) cast iron, 24" 90deg elbow for a waste treatment plant.
We needed to drill an offset of just a little less than the diameter of the bolt holes, in one flange face.

Customer had center punched the pattern on the flange face and said "drill them here".
Pick up the punch marks with a point and clamp everything, center drill it, and then a couple steps up to about a 1/4" less than breaking out into the existing hole.
Then switch over to an end mill and ease it through for the final step.
Makes you appreciate having a nearly new radial drill press to run.

Same customer would sometimes have, channel iron, motor bases with welded holes to re-drill.
Always fun finding that bit of oxide or glass looking slag in the middle of the steel.
 

Moparmyway

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Drill got away from me.
When doesnt magnesium grab any drill bit and bite hard ? (Answer: mostly on holes smaller than 1/8")
It's unavoidable at best and going to happen unless you've clamped it down and are using a mill or press............

Even then, I've had it grab on me.

The guys who question it wont be the ones who have drilled it

Great job on a (once worthless) NLA item !
 

srcarr52

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Drill bit wanting to track into the voids a little?

I think the most "fun" I ever had with a drilling job, was on a (new) cast iron, 24" 90deg elbow for a waste treatment plant.
We needed to drill an offset of just a little less than the diameter of the bolt holes, in one flange face.

Customer had center punched the pattern on the flange face and said "drill them here".
Pick up the punch marks with a point and clamp everything, center drill it, and then a couple steps up to about a 1/4" less than breaking out into the existing hole.
Then switch over to an end mill and ease it through for the final step.
Makes you appreciate having a nearly new radial drill press to run.

Same customer would sometimes have, channel iron, motor bases with welded holes to re-drill.
Always fun finding that bit of oxide or glass looking slag in the middle of the steel.

I drilled it from the backside on the drill press, holding it by hand. It caught and lifted as it broke through the bar pad face and messed up the hole a bit, probably still a 50% thread there.
 

Nutball

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I drilled one out to like 13mm by hand on a 661 to install a threaded insert. That was a pain. I tried going slow, but the best method was to rev up the drill and let it suck itself into the magnesium. And the mess of shavings it made!
 

srcarr52

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Gift that keeps giving. Two more really fine cracks welded that appeared once I got it hot enough to cause the oil traces. There are a few more fine ones that I’m going to have to leave as they are in places I cannot reach.

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Even winged the last one a bit.
 

tickbitintn

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Gift that keeps giving. Two more really fine cracks welded that appeared once I got it hot enough to cause the oil traces. There are a few more fine ones that I’m going to have to leave as they are in places I cannot reach.

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Even winged the last one a bit.
May have been easier to cast that one from scratch...
Nice work Sir.

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