Analyzation of the 10 series McCulloch design

[exSW]

Super 250,'cause I wanted something that would pull that bar.

 

[exSW]

CP 55 just to cute to pass up. Needs that piece though.

 

[Steve]

 

[Steve]

View attachment 81784

55 just to cute to pass up. Needs that piece though.

I have what you need. Send me a pm.

 

[Steve]

View attachment 81782
My 850 First saw I ever did a nut n bolt rebuild on.

I remember when you pieced it all back together. Turned out great.

 

[exSW]

I remember when you pieced it all back together. Turned out great.

I think the build is in the s a w h a w g z archives.

 

[Steve]

Here is the electric start 10 series with the flywheel/armature removed. if you look about the two o'clock area you will see the set of brushes that ride on the commutator of the armature that is attached to the flywheel. you see the field magnets attached to the case of the motor/generator. If you look towards the top of the picture you will barely see the armature on the back of the flywheel. notice the giant resistor mounted above the flywheel to limit charging current to the battery pack.




Here is the battery pack that fits in a box under the rear handle. the pack is made of 10 sub-C NiCd cells of 1.2v each. totaling 12V. if you look over the muffler you will see the black triangle cover of the DeStroking Port or D.S.P. valve (McCulloch lingo for decompression valve). The lever leading from the triangle cover the the rear handle actuates the DSP valve manually when the starter button is pushed. the starter switch and regulator for the generator are housed in the rear handle. you can see the little screw holes in the pic

the unique multifunction button on the electric start saws was red and did not have a latch to keep the DSP valve open like all other DSP equiped 10 series. when you pushed the button down it would close the switch to activate the starter as well as open the DSP valve. once the saw was running you release the button and the starter is switch off, the generator switched on, and the DSP valve is closed. to shut the saw down you push the red button forward.

most all the 10 series parst are interchangeable with the electric start saws but there are a few parts unique to the electric start saws. the front handle bar is wider to acomidate the starter/generator. the flywheel housing is wider too. the oil tank has two extra bosses cast in it to mount the field magnets/brush case. and the rear handle is different only in the means of precision drilled holes to mount the starter switch/regulator.

 

[Steve]

Here is an early 10 series 54cc 3.3 ci cylinder. Specifically looking at the unique 6 port transfer ports. You can see if they had an 1/8th inch to put a port they did.

 

[RocketRoss57]

Picked up an old 795 the other day. Hopefully i can salvage a head hood off of some other relic lying about.

 

[RocketRoss57]

View attachment 81783
Super 250,'cause I wanted something that would pull that bar.

How's that old betty treating you?

 

[Mastermind]

I think the build is in the s a w h a w g z archives.

This ain't ArboristSite, you can just type out SawHawgz here.

 

[raumati01]

I think the build is in the s a w h a w g z archives.

If the link to the sawhawgs build is still up can you post it?

 

[Mastermind]

If the link to the sawhawgs build is still up can you post it?

Absolutely. Post any links to other related sites.

 

[Stump Shot]

The one Major thing that holds these older saws back in my opinion is the points. They can only take revving so high before they bounce and act like a governor of sorts. I've chipped a few Macs and some old Stihls, this being the only modification. They act like a whole new saw, a much newer saw.

 

[weedkilla]

View attachment 81783
Super 250,'cause I wanted something that would pull that bar.

First saw I ever used. Was about 12 before I could start it, still remember staring at it for what felt like ages before I could.
Dad replaced it with a husky 268 and it was like a toy in comparison.

 

[raumati01]

Absolutely. Post any links to other related sites.

The 10-10 thread on as is a great reference but I don't think there's an actual build though

http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/the-unofficial-mac-10-10-thread.201506/

 

[Al Smith]

The one Major thing that holds these older saws back in my opinion is the points. They can only take revving so high before they bounce and act like a governor of sorts. I've chipped a few Macs and some old Stihls, this being the only modification. They act like a whole new saw, a much newer saw.

Perhaps but they are easy to advance the timing with points .I've talked about my 6-10 that's cranks on at 15,500 rpm before .It has points .They are set wide which advances by maybe 3-4 degrees .Which in theory would be maybe 28-29 degrees as opposed to stock 26 degree advance
One of my 125's that came from California has an off set key and had a solid state trigger device but had the points still installed .That damned thing gave me fits so I hooked up the points and have as yet to have any problems .
As a matter of reference for those who don't know the 125 could have either the large coil or the same as used on a 10-10 .Both mine have the smaller coil .What I don't know is if a solid state coil from a 10 series would work or not .If it would work that could be an option .It would save you pulling the flywheel if the points need attention which quite frankly is a pain in the buttocks .If you chose to advance it a tad an offset key is not that hard to make .

 

[exSW]

If the link to the sawhawgs build is still up can you post it?

I think it's buried in the Mac thread.

 

[exSW]

How's that old betty treating you?

No complaints. Dusted it off to put a 3/8 rim drive on it and had the wrong bearing.

 

[exSW]

This ain't ArboristSite, you can just type out SawHawgz here.