550 XP Mark II or MS 261

[jcarlberg]

The shop
Owner said to do the reset, they never cease to amaze me…saws prob fine but these people selling saws are something else

I shoulda not listened to a word, and tossed the manual to boot. Double-checking the manual; somewhere early on it says don't run WOT during break-in (first three tanks). Kinda buried on page 30 of the manual. But in the safety instructions it seems to suggest run WOT. And so a new owner like me listens to the dude, reads page 34 which says (like most of you) the saw automatically adapts, but also hey if you want it to do so faster, calibrate it. Look forward to getting it into some wood right away; tons of oak and ash to fell & buck.

 

[Entisol]

I shoulda not listened to a word, and tossed the manual to boot. Double-checking the manual; somewhere early on it says don't run WOT during break-in (first three tanks). Kinda buried on page 30 of the manual. But in the safety instructions it seems to suggest run WOT. And so a new owner like me listens to the dude, reads page 34 which says (like most of you) the saw automatically adapts, but also hey if you want it to do so faster, calibrate it. Look forward to getting it into some wood right away; tons of oak and ash to fell & buck.

I wouldn’t worry about the reset. Probably not necessary for your new saw, but also not the end of the world if you did it. Just avoid UNLOADED WOT during break in. You can go full throttle when you’re in the wood. Have fun with your new saw!

 

[jcarlberg]

I wouldn’t worry about the reset. Probably not necessary for your new saw, but also not the end of the world if you did it. Just avoid UNLOADED WOT during break in. You can go full throttle when you’re in the wood. Have fun with your new saw!

Thank you I will run it that way. Makes sense.

 

[Khntr85]

I shoulda not listened to a word, and tossed the manual to boot. Double-checking the manual; somewhere early on it says don't run WOT during break-in (first three tanks). Kinda buried on page 30 of the manual. But in the safety instructions it seems to suggest run WOT. And so a new owner like me listens to the dude, reads page 34 which says (like most of you) the saw automatically adapts, but also hey if you want it to do so faster, calibrate it. Look forward to getting it into some wood right away; tons of oak and ash to fell & buck.

Ya let her eat, I think you like it a lot!!!!

Yes WOT in the wood (or under load as stihl puts it)….

 

[tps3443]

Picked 'er up today. Here's a few pics! About to run through the M-Tronic calibration.View attachment 414588View attachment 414589View attachment 414590

Pretty interesting that your Stihl 261 Mtronic is made in Germany. I just bought a Stihl 261 myself, however it is a Stihl 261 Non-Mtronic made in USA on 11/2023.

 

[jcarlberg]

Pretty interesting that your Stihl 261 Mtronic is made in Germany. I just bought a Stihl 261 myself, however it is a Stihl 261 Non-Mtronic made in USA on 11/2023.

Might be that I got mine in Canada?

 

[Wood Doctor]

Seems like a short bar for that saw. I guess we have to cut bigger trees in Nebraska. Most tree service companies here mount a 20" bar on a Stihl MS261, even though I recommend an 18", which is what I have on my Stihl 026 PRO. To each his own, I guess.

 

[jcarlberg]

Seems like a short bar for that saw. I guess we have to cut bigger trees in Nebraska. Most tree service companies here mount a 20" bar on a Stihl MS261, even though I recommend an 18", which is what I have on my Stihl 026 PRO. To each his own, I guess.

Love Nebraska; been through there many times!

 

[Jusgunn3]

Just got a 550xp recently and can’t wait to cut with it buts it been 107+ for a free weeks. I am running a 20inch 3/8 on it.

 

[Squareground3691]

Just got a 550xp recently and can’t wait to cut with it buts it been 107+ for a free weeks. I am running a 20inch 3/8 on it.

Put some 23RSPro .325 NK , on it

 

[Skiptooth Fred]

Sorry guys; first post is yet another “Help Me Decide””.” This is a decision between a 550 XP Mark II or MS 261 (16 inch bar on both). Local dealers have great prices on both right now. Husky is about $35 cheaper. Stihl guy is a bit closer & seems like great place for parts/service. Have a 390 XP (20 inch bar) I love so was leaning toward Husky until reading epic 261-vs-550 thread on another forum. Just want a reliable saw for felling & bucking firewood to sell semi-commercially. Wanting something in the 50cc class my sons can run & I can take it easier with. Will do plenty of fall/winter cutting. Appreciate any & all advice!

Pick tHem up roll tHem around and cHoose wHat feels the best to you ergonomically in the Hand
I know wHat I’d pick but it isn’t my money!

 

[Skiptooth Fred]

Thank you I will run it that way. Makes sense.

Full throttle is fine in the wood just dont swing hard on the dogs and load the guts outa’ it. I reckon you be fine, saws are damn tough bitta gear when you think they run their life pretty much flat out, now what other motors do that and last!

 

[jcarlberg]

Have put 10 or so tanks through this saw now - very pleased! Cuts almost anything I come across & is light enough to swing for hours. Great tool & could not be happier!!

 

[2000ssm6]

Depending on how you feel about the warranty, they respond well to a muff mod. CFB could make it even better with porting.

 

[jcarlberg]

This saw gets better & better. I never really understood how getting “broken in” would improve performance, but oh man she’s a little beauty!

 

[jcarlberg]

Don't use the 261 a whole bunch as my "daily" saw is my 400 (cut 40 cords or so with it so far this year). But brought it out the other day for a small job around the house and was shocked that a less-than-year-old saw with maybe 10 or 15 hours running time wasn't running right. I mix Amsoil at 40:1, but it is very difficult to get ethanol-free gas here in Soviet Canuckistan so I use 93 octane with SeaFoam. My small engine guy said drain the gas outta the saw and run a tank of Aspen through it. Did that, and it seems to be running as it should.

Now...am I safe still running my Amsoil 40:1 through my 400 given that saw works constantly and the fuel doesn't sit in the saw? Or should I just run Motomix through it all the time? Or run a tank of Motomix a day and stay with my "normal" fuel the rest of the time? Love the saw and want to do what's best for it in the long-term, but not loving the cost of alkylate fuel on a day-to-day basis (but will use it if that's going to save me from wrecking my saw in the long-term). What do you think?

 

[cuinrearview]

Personally, if I was less than a month between regularly running a saw, I wouldn't worry about the fuel.

 

[FederalQ]

I don’t know that sea foam is doing any favors as it contains isopropyl alcohol which adds to the fuel’s desire to attract moisture from the air, especially this time of year. Most 2T oils i have looked at have naphtha in them already which is another component of the foam. Even premixed can fuel goes bad over a long length of time. It would be interesting to see how much ethanol is actually in that pump gas. Here a small shop tested 91 octane and found it had closer to 20% when most pump labels indicate “up to 10% ethanol.” They couldn’t figure out why they were seeing so much equipment with ethanol related problems and I believe Stihl recommends no more than 10% in their equipment.

 

[Jusgunn3]

I am in Comifornia and everything is E-10, I use a fuel stabilizer and I do not have issues with the saws running “bad”. You could also just leave the tank empty until you use the saw. A funnel is your friend and makes it easy but keep in mind your fuel is sitting in a can until you use it right? You should not need seafoam in a new saw, I use that for old bunked up engines like a 20 year old quad.

 

[hacskaroly]

Now...am I safe still running my Amsoil 40:1 through my 400 given that saw works constantly and the fuel doesn't sit in the saw? Or should I just run Motomix through it all the time? Or run a tank of Motomix a day and stay with my "normal" fuel the rest of the time? Love the saw and want to do what's best for it in the long-term, but not loving the cost of alkylate fuel on a day-to-day basis (but will use it if that's going to save me from wrecking my saw in the long-term). What do you think?

I use both (pre-mix and non-ethanol mix). For my heavy use equipment like my weed eater and blower, they get the non-ethanol mix and the final tank of the season I will run Harvest King 40:1 through it and let the rest set over the winter. They fire right up every spring. Working on other people's saws, I always use Harvest King 40:1 or 50:1 after their rebuilds (they can use whatever they want after that). If I have a saw that I will use occasionally, then I use the Harvest King otherwise if I am running tanks through it then I use the non-ethanol pump mix. I do put a cap full of SeaFoam per gallon when I mix it, I find that carbon doesn't stick as easy on the exit side. I don't use any fuel stabilizers.