25"Rollormatic Light ES on a Stihl 261 c-m

[ironmike44]

Hi all, new to OPE & need help. I have a exhaust ported 261 c-m that I want to change bar to 25"Rollormatic Light ES. My Stihl supplier won't support that understandably. Fyi, I also have a 16" Echo 3450 & want to move to a 3/8p, 0.050ga chain (semi-skip?) on the 261 so that 1 set of files for both. At 71 I have hopefully bought my last saw but want the option of the 25" bar. Feasible ?? Besides the bar any suggestions on a chain/sprocket combo?
I have quite a bit of clearing to do and a longer bar makes limbing & bucking easier for me (I can bend my knees better than mu back . I'm way better with steel than I am with wood even tho I've been using chain saws since I was a youngster. BTW this is my 1st Stihl & I love it these 1st 3 years. Any suggestions is greatly appreciated!

 

[GCJenks204]

I have a very strong fully ported 261 and while it does a good job with a 20” 3/8 set up I wouldn’t try 25, even with skip chain.

 

[Stem]

I wouldn't run any longer than a 20" bar. not enough grunt & probably wouldn't oil that well.

 

[qurotro]

The 261 wont pull a 25'' bucking. But you can try mounting a 25'' to see the balance for limbing.

 

[ironmike44]

Thank you guys. Don't won't to have to buy more than one bar/chain setup!

 

[Pincher]

I have been using mine with a 25" light. My brother's has a 28". Requires a little finesse and proper raker height when bucking. Sharp square chisel chain helps.

 

[drf256]

The saw isn’t set up to oil a bar that length. It’s simply too large a bar to run well, especially in a non ported saw.

Fully ported it will pull a 25, but not sure why you would want to. Better off with a larger saw.

A ported 261 will outperform a ported 026. Here’s a ported 026 pulling a 25 ES .375 full comp RS chain. So it’s doable, but I‘d send the saw out for a port job and maybe an oil pump mod. Randy has a thread on changing part of the oil pump for more output that’s fairly simple.

 

[ironmike44]

Thanks Pincher! Doc can you point me to "Randy's" thread I couldn't find it. Not good at searching this forum yet... Thank you guys for the advice & help. I'm a heat it & beat it kinda guy, weld anything from a broken heart to the crack of dawn

 

[drf256]

Stihl Oil Pump Flow Mods

Lots of ways to increase the flow on a Stihl (or other brand) oil pump. You can alter the control bolt, or the ramp on the pump shaft. But....quick and simple rules when doing a production volume of units. MS261 oil pump. MS460 high volume control bolt. See the difference? Aside...

opeforum.com

 

[ironmike44]

Thanks Doc... I think. Can you direct me to Randy's thread on changing part of the oil pump for more output .....that’s fairly simple. I need simple. Before using I point my bar at a wood chip or similar & rev my saw and check that it is throwing oil and adjust until it does. The 261 doesn't have an adjustment, so a slight mod would be great. Bar oil is cheap, considering what the 261 cost.

 

[sawmikaze]

Thanks Doc... I think. Can you direct me to Randy's thread on changing part of the oil pump for more output .....that’s fairly simple. I need simple. Before using I point my bar at a wood chip or similar & rev my saw and check that it is throwing oil and adjust until it does. The 261 doesn't have an adjustment, so a slight mod would be great. Bar oil is cheap, considering what the 261 cost.

The 261 has an adjustment screw.

To put the new screw in, take the pump out, punch out the roll pin, put the new bolt in with O-rings in the right location, put the roll pin back in.

Done.

 

[Funky sawman]

It all depends on the size of the tree, and are we talking hardwood or softwood? After my logging injury, stupid work comp put me back into the Bush after a short 6 months in therapy so I had to figure out crap.......in a hurry. I bought a 346 NE and sawed landing for almost a year, running a 24 inch Windsor bar, with .325 Windsor skip chain. Did just fine. I'm sure the 261 will do fine despite the naysayers as long as your careful in soft wood.

 

[ironmike44]

Thank you both. Mostly pine with some oak & big hickory.
It'll likely make sense once I get into it & see how it works. Is the new bolt a Stihl part# or ??

 

[ironmike44]

Thanks Doc,
1 of my duh moments for sure... I see now your post was a link to that oil pump flow mod. THANK YOU !!!

 

[Funky sawman]

Not telling you what to do here, but this is exactly what I would do in your circumstance:
1st .....muffler mod a 261
Get a 24 inch lightweight stihl bar, and swap the tip out with a .325 pitch tip.
Make up a custom driver count .325 round chisel chain such as 23rs stihl chain.
Change the drive sprocket rim to .325.
Mod the oiler.
This should make a great little saw for you, and the lightweight bar will not stress out those spring av mounts as much. When I worked at a husqvarna dealer we sold countless 51 and 55 ranchers with 24 inch bars, that 261 is light years ahead of those

 

[ironmike44]

Thanks for that idea. My muffler is ported & planning to do the oiler mod asap (thanks again Doc). I had a line on an open box 25" Rollomatic ES Light bar but it may have slipped away. It is/was a 3/8p,0.50ga that I was wanting to switch over to 3/8 anyway (my other little saw is 3/8-0.050ga). I'd like to try out the stihl EZ file sharpener & have just 1 for 3/8p. I like round chisel profile chains as they last longer for the stuff I do. Plus they're easy to touch up as long as I don't let them get too dull.

 

[Funky sawman]

Thanks for that idea. My muffler is ported & planning to do the oiler mod asap (thanks again Doc). I had a line on an open box 25" Rollomatic ES Light bar but it may have slipped away. It is/was a 3/8p,0.50ga that I was wanting to switch over to 3/8 anyway (my other little saw is 3/8-0.050ga). I'd like to try out the stihl EZ file sharpener & have just 1 for 3/8p. I like round chisel profile chains as they last longer for the stuff I do. Plus they're easy to touch up as long as I don't let them get too dull.

I think you meant round semi chisel chipper chain, not full chisel. Rapid duro stihl chain, They stay sharp longer in dirty conditions

 

[ironmike44]

Yes, thanks. I assume staying with the .325 bar/chain would take less power to a small degree? or a lot more power??

 

[Funky sawman]

Yes, thanks. I assume staying with the .325 bar/chain would take less power to a small degree? or a lot more power??

.325 takes a smaller bite, and it's a lighter chassis so it will use less power.

 

[drf256]

I’m not understanding.

I thing you want Rapid Micro or RM which is semichisel from still. It lasts a long time. I’ve hit metal with it and the damn thing kept cutting.

Stihl Duro is carbide. It’s horrible to cut wood with. The cutters are full carbide and very short. Kevin @Moparmyway modded a few for us and they cut better, but still not great. It’s actually not designed to cut wood with, it’s for rescue for cutting through mixed material.

In general, it takes more power to run bigger chain. They have skip chain, which has less cutters on it. The bigger the chain, the longer it takes to dull. The same rules apply to cutter design, square is the fastest but also dulls the fastest.

The kerf of the chains is different and is cutter height and design. .325 removes less material form a log than 3/8 does in one revolution. 325 has more cutters per foot though.