395xp 36"?

[davidwyby]

Like these? I’d love to do a 42” bar and see where it ends up.

CF vs Alum...? Old saws just have holes in the bars.... hmm...

 

[PJLink]

I have a 395 from @Mastermind , wears a 42" bar with square ground full skip. I dont think its fully broken in yet as it seems to still be getting stronger when i run it. Ive had it completely buried in oak on more than one occasion and its had plenty of power to spare. If your 395 is struggling then there is something wrong with it - but hey, look at the positives, gives an excuse to get it ported!

 

[XP_Slinger]

I have a 395 from @Mastermind , wears a 42" bar with square ground full skip. I dont think its fully broken in yet as it seems to still be getting stronger when i run it. Ive had it completely buried in oak on more than one occasion and its had plenty of power to spare. If your 395 is struggling then there is something wrong with it - but hey, look at the positives, gives an excuse to get it ported!

Agreed. @rattler Mike did mine up for me this summer and it’s down right impressive. 32” bar with out of the box Oregon full comp chain, seasoned sugar maple...HOD wood for up here.

 

[SOS Ridgerider]

CF vs Alum...? Old saws just have holes in the bars.... hmm...

The open holes tend to plug with chips. I’ve never tried it, just what I’ve read, so take it for what it’s worth.
From what I remember the weight savings are just around the 40% mark. I’m sure aluminum would get you close to the same result. Straight grain carbon length wise in the bar would probably be the stiffest. My 32” is pretty stiff, but the 36” is more whippy. Could be the quality of the bar I used, as the 32” was done with a much nicer bar to begin with. I’d also change where the cutouts are, and the size of them, if I’m doing another one. I still want to do a 42”, but no access to a mill anymore.

 

[kneedeepinsaws]

I have a 32 RSN on mine now balance is perfect, a 36 and she tips. However a 36” lightweight would probably keep good balance.

this is by far the best saw I have ever run IMO

 

[Lightning Performance]

I'm thinking the 32" light is about it on these 92 and 95cc saws for good balance, a fairly stiff set up to handle felling. The ES 36 and Cannon 37 are nose heavy imo. ES 28" is ok.

 

[davidwyby]

I should clarify that the issue with my 395 in the pitchy pine was not the saw or power. It was the cutting action of the chain. The wood is hard and sticky and grabby. The skip cut a lot smoother.

 

[davidwyby]

Anyone else interested in 42" lightweight if I decide to do it? I have a machine shop.

 

[Lightning Performance]

Anyone else interested in 42" lightweight if I decide to do it? I have a machine shop.

I'm game but Cannon already makes one.

Carbon fiber?

 

[davidwyby]

Based on what @SOS Ridgerider says about flexibility, maybe I should try one first.

 

[davidwyby]

I'm game but Cannon already makes one.

Carbon fiber?

I don't see a 42" on their bar finder. I would probably do aluminum. I can weld the inserts to each other vs. glue or epoxy.

 

[Lightning Performance]

I don't see a 42" on their bar finder. I would probably do aluminum. I can weld the inserts to each other vs. glue or epoxy.

It would be easier to put them in a kiln to braze them together. They should stay tight.

What bar are you starting with?

 

[davidwyby]

Maybe should start with something cheap for the first one.

 

[XP_Slinger]

I should clarify that the issue with my 395 in the pitchy pine was not the saw or power. It was the cutting action of the chain. The wood is hard and sticky and grabby. The skip cut a lot smoother.

Hard resin can sure give a chain hell, gums it right up.

 

[XP_Slinger]

The open holes tend to plug with chips. I’ve never tried it, just what I’ve read, so take it for what it’s worth.
From what I remember the weight savings are just around the 40% mark. I’m sure aluminum would get you close to the same result. Straight grain carbon length wise in the bar would probably be the stiffest. My 32” is pretty stiff, but the 36” is more whippy. Could be the quality of the bar I used, as the 32” was done with a much nicer bar to begin with. I’d also change where the cutouts are, and the size of them, if I’m doing another one. I still want to do a 42”, but no access to a mill anymore.

Agree 100%. That 37” you bought from me is exactly that, whippy. The 32” I put on my 395 seems much more rigid and works better for felling.

 

[davidwyby]

I'm looking to go longer bar for bucking and firewooding large diameter stuff more than felling. Short fat Live Oaks, pines, Euc.

 

[Lightning Performance]

My cut will be made before going in with the longer light bar. It will be easier on the saws AV system just moving it around. The last maple base was too big for a 32" 660 set up. Had to swap to to the 404 42 GB off the mill. The CS 60 bar... you carry the bar and top handle, pia to use. Plus one 084 is set up for 12mm S2 mount.

Do you have a 36" there to test out the set up?
Or maybe a 28-32"?

My 42 GB looked heavy on a 661 Heath ran it on at a gtg.

 

[davidwyby]

I don't have much for big wood in my yard pile now.

 

[Lightning Performance]

I don't have much for big wood in my yard pile now.

Rip cuts

 

[SOS Ridgerider]

Anyone else interested in 42" lightweight if I decide to do it? I have a machine shop.

I'm definitely interested in something like that. I think an all alu bar would not hold up very long, though.

A 42" Oregon can be had for around $100 shipped. That would be my choice for a first bar to do.