Yes. Do it all the time logging. I cut 4ft oaks with a 24” bar before. But residential is a little different ballgame. You want the safest way possible to get the tree down with good holding wood that has no chance of breaking off and hitting a house.Nutball, would it be possible to use a 36 on that tree by making your notch, then plunge cutting through the middle of the notch to get the center, then start your back cut to make sure you are all the way through? Making sure of course to keep a large portion of holding wood?
Absolutely. I bet there's lots of dirt and sand in that stump. A short bar will make sharpening go faster. I'd have a few full skip chains on hand for a job like that, or even take it slow with some carbide chains.Your chan sharpening skills will mean more than what saw you have.
Full comp stays sharp longer in dirty wood than skip. Less cutters doing the same amount of work. Kind of offsets being able to file skip faster. It is nice to have skip on 36”+ bars though.Absolutely. I bet there's lots of dirt and sand in that stump. A short bar will make sharpening go faster. I'd have a few full skip chains on hand for a job like that, or even take it slow with some carbide chains.
Why not try this guy. 79cc and Husky bars will fit.Best I have that's reliable is the 67cc 6100 makita, or the 280s husky once I fix the air leak but the makita(dolmar) rips.
This might be your best answer.I have a very nice 056 mag 2 that would also work well. And in budget. And I have bars and chains.
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