High Quality Chainsaw Bars Husqvarna Toys Hockfire Saws

394 to 395 mod

huskyboy

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Husky since you brought it up - the 372 would you put it up there with a favorite saw ? As far as size vs power. I have always wanted one
372 is a great saw, parts are easy to get. They have a good power to weight.
 

paragonbuilder

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I’ve never seen wear in any saw from lack of oil. And most guys run 50:1 around here.
And I’ve never seen a dry bottom end yet.
I’m not saying 40:1 is a bad idea, I run it now, but I ran 50:1 for 25 years on one saw and it still has machine marks on the piston and is tight.
Ported is another story...


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huskyboy

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I just think 40:1 is more idiot proof if that makes sense. Especially in the larger saws working them hard.
 

paragonbuilder

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The bottom end in my 372 was completely dry. Tree service runs 50:1 in there stuff. Bone dry inside. Why does the husqvarna international manual state 33:1 is recommended for 80cc+ saws?

I never seen that. Interesting. Link?


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Scott chandler

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Not sure I've seen 40:1 oil so to get 40:1 ratio how much gas to bottle of oil ? I have a dozen of the 50:1 that goes in a gallon so put .8 gal to a bottle now ?
 

huskyboy

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Not sure I've seen 40:1 oil so to get 40:1 ratio how much gas to bottle of oil ? I have a dozen of the 50:1 that goes in a gallon so put .8 gal to a bottle now ?
Yes, 2.6 oz oil to .8 gallon
 

Scott chandler

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Thanks fellas. Getting rubber over intake port with clamp on and the black spacer in place and keeping the two tabs on rubber where they should be while you get it over all sides of intake port on cylinder is a *b-word. Am i allowed to say *b-word in here ? Anyhow after twisting mouth and doing something right pushing from inside of rubber it’s on and in place. Just waiting on mailman for carb and metal ring. Cylinder piston on and smooth rings were no problem slid right in and stayed in little groove and yes arrow towards exhaust. I may fire this thing up today. Cross fingers
 

huskyboy

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Thanks fellas. Getting rubber over intake port with clamp on and the black spacer in place and keeping the two tabs on rubber where they should be while you get it over all sides of intake port on cylinder is a *b-word. Am i allowed to say *b-word in here ? Anyhow after twisting mouth and doing something right pushing from inside of rubber it’s on and in place. Just waiting on mailman for carb and metal ring. Cylinder piston on and smooth rings were no problem slid right in and stayed in little groove and yes arrow towards exhaust. I may fire this thing up today. Cross fingers
Good to hear, next time put a little wd40 on the intake boot rim to help it slide over the collar. Installing the top end muffler and intake tract all at once is the easiest way (muffler+intake tract bolted to the cylinder). Takes me 10 minutes.
 

Scott chandler

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Wish i would have thought of that!! I got muffler on but it was tough. I only put one gasket on touching block at exhaust. I tried using one between aluminum air dam and muffler but bolts were not long enough to get nuts on. Now that I’ve tightened i might could get it on. Do you use one between aluminum and muffler ? I used a little two cycle oil instead of wd40. Still kind of a pain. Carb and metal O ring for support in rubber intake should be here any minute. Only thing i don’t have is the throttle cable. Could i use old one just to start and run a little or should i just wait - it should be here tue or wed. image.jpg
 

Scott chandler

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Also when i get carb will it be anywhere close on adjustment or can i turn high low to where it will be close ? It’s a walbro
 

huskyboy

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Wish i would have thought of that!! I got muffler on but it was tough. I only put one gasket on touching block at exhaust. I tried using one between aluminum air dam and muffler but bolts were not long enough to get nuts on. Now that I’ve tightened i might could get it on. Do you use one between aluminum and muffler ? I used a little two cycle oil instead of wd40. Still kind of a pain. Carb and metal O ring for support in rubber intake should be here any minute. Only thing i don’t have is the throttle cable. Could i use old one just to start and run a little or should i just wait - it should be here tue or wed. View attachment 107730
There is a muffler gasket that goes between the heat shield and muffler. Part # 503920701.......I found the easiest way to slide everything on is to get the studs situated in there pockets, then put on the heat shield and gasket maybe halfway on then get the muffler on and it’ll slide everything on evenly using the muffler to slide gasket and shield together so it doesn’t get stuck.
 

Scott chandler

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I have 3 or 4 muffler gaskets. I thought there would be one between block and heat shield and another one between heat shield and muffler. Should i just use one between heat shield and muffler and butt shield right against block ?
 

huskyboy

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Also when i get carb will it be anywhere close on adjustment or can i turn high low to where it will be close ? It’s a walbro
I sent you a PM about that
 

huskyboy

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I have 3 or 4 muffler gaskets. I thought there would be one between block and heat shield and another one between heat shield and muffler. Should i just use one between heat shield and muffler and butt shield right against block ?
Just one muffler gasket between muffler and shield.
 

backhoelover

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I use the stihl 2.5 gl mix in a 2 gl gas can and never had any problems.
@huskyboy what ratio do u think that is

@Scott chandler make sure u do a pressure and vac test before running the saw in the process of doing this need to rotate crank while it’s under pressure and vac. I have the block offs and 8500 mity vac and a tech if you need them I can mail them to u and u can mail them back when you are done
 
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