High Quality Chainsaw Bars Husqvarna Toys Hockfire Saws

372 sputters when tipped, passes spray test

davidwyby

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I've heard 12 years on a shelf in a gawdaful hot and dry local could wreck anything and everything tubie diaphramie.
Yes…but I’ve only had it a few months, and I keep em in the AC with e free fuel.

@afleetcommand suspects the PTO bearing/seal as it’s on an Xtorq base and ported zippy
 

huskihl

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Yes…but I’ve only had it a few months, and I keep em in the AC with e free fuel.

@afleetcommand suspects the PTO bearing/seal as it’s on an Xtorq base and ported zippy
Might be able to remove the clutch, worm gear, oil pump off PTO side and pull the bushing and see if the bearing retainer is still in place. If the seal is leaking, it’s really likely that the bearing is shot as well.
 

davidwyby

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I found the shutoff wire loose and coil gap off. Reset the gap and left the shutoff wire disconnected from the coil in case there was an issue with it.

(Black coil)

Fired it up and at first it was fine, no change to how it idled when tipping the saw etc., and then it went bad again. It’s lean on L and fat on H and won’t hold a tune or respond to the tuning screws properly. Not acting like it’s limited, like an air leak or carb. I’m gonna try the 390 carb off my other 2175 tomorrow. Or my rwj off my 2166. RWJs can be finicky. Found some kits in my parts too.

Failing that, I guess I gotta break down and vac test
 

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Yes…but I’ve only had it a few months, and I keep em in the AC with e free fuel.

@afleetcommand suspects the PTO bearing/seal as it’s on an Xtorq base and ported zippy

I found the shutoff wire loose and coil gap off. Reset the gap and left the shutoff wire disconnected from the coil in case there was an issue with it.

(Black coil)

Fired it up and at first it was fine, no change to how it idled when tipping the saw etc., and then it went bad again. It’s lean on L and fat on H and won’t hold a tune or respond to the tuning screws properly. Not acting like it’s limited, like an air leak or carb. I’m gonna try the 390 carb off my other 2175 tomorrow. Or my rwj off my 2166. RWJs can be finicky. Found some kits in my parts too.

Failing that, I guess I gotta break down and vac test
My air leak game (or lack of) needs work. What do you seal ports with?
 

davidwyby

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Check to see if the crankshaft has perceptible sideways play. I just had one I was working on a week ago that had a worn-out PTO bearing pocket.
Seems healthy

Saw is almost new.

I blew it off first (desert wood is filthy dusty)

Not sure if it was sucking air there or I didn’t get it clean enough or…🤦🏻‍♂️

IMG_5280.jpeg
 

Junk Meister

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Check to see if the crankshaft has perceptible sideways play. I just had one I was working on a week ago that had a worn-out PTO bearing pocket.
If this then won't the seal most likely be the culprit. The Pocket brg movement caused the Seal issue. Sihl 026 failing the tip test are indicative to seals.
Does the 372 have that thin oil ring that is so often missing or "Seal Gone Bad" syndrome and or the case threads open to the crankcase that are recommended to have a sealant on the case bolts/fasteners.
 

huskihl

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If this then won't the seal most likely be the culprit. The Pocket brg movement caused the Seal issue. Sihl 026 failing the tip test are indicative to seals.
Does the 372 have that thin oil ring that is so often missing or "Seal Gone Bad" syndrome and or the case threads open to the crankcase that are recommended to have a sealant on the case bolts/fasteners.
026 failing the tip test is more likely fuel pooling in the intake and in the lower transfer ports. L screw needs to be leaned out a little bit. 372 is bottom fed and the intake is smooth on the bottom
 

huskihl

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If this then won't the seal most likely be the culprit. The Pocket brg movement caused the Seal issue. Sihl 026 failing the tip test are indicative to seals.
Does the 372 have that thin oil ring that is so often missing or "Seal Gone Bad" syndrome and or the case threads open to the crankcase that are recommended to have a sealant on the case bolts/fasteners.
Something else I’ve learned along the way. If your carb screws are normally at one and one, turn the H out 2 turns. Hold the saw wide open and if it hits the screw setting rpm for a split second and then takes off and screams, it’s a flexible leak. 90% of the time it needs new seals. That is the only way that I’ve ever been able to diagnose a seal leak for certain
 

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If this then won't the seal most likely be the culprit. The Pocket brg movement caused the Seal issue. Sihl 026 failing the tip test are indicative to seals.
Does the 372 have that thin oil ring that is so often missing or "Seal Gone Bad" syndrome and or the case threads open to the crankcase that are recommended to have a sealant on the case bolts/fasteners.
Yes the seal will be leaking, but chain tension will have a lot more to do with crankshaft position than saw orientation will. They do have a thin o-ring but that usually doesn’t fail badly enough to create a problem—the tolerance between the bushing and crankshaft that it seals is very tight from new.
 

Woodslasher

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Yes the seal will be leaking, but chain tension will have a lot more to do with crankshaft position than saw orientation will. They do have a thin o-ring but that usually doesn’t fail badly enough to create a problem—the tolerance between the bushing and crankshaft that it seals is very tight from new.
Out of 5 or more 372-chassis saws I've stripped only 1 had an o-ring present and none of the ones without it exhibited any sort of running/tuning issues.
 

davidwyby

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I swapped the carb to a 385 carb off my smashed XS 2175 this am and I haven’t put a bar on and put it in wood yet but the tune is stable regardless of position, side to side anyway. Nose up or down changes a little bit I think that’s normal. It doesn’t stall. I think those RWJs just kinda stink.
 
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