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2017 MMWS GTG Box Saw Build Off Rules

Moparmyway

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Mostly I would say no disqualification unless you spank everyone easily. But the original idea of class 1 was as close the out of the box as most people would get. Now maybe if you prove that you flattened it without a lathe or mandrel/cutter, something like sticky sandpaper on the piston.
I know I'm going to be honest and I'll assume everyone else is too, it seems more fun that way. Realistically we all are going to end up doing some defect cleanup here and there, after all we do want them to stay running.

After looking at mine, there is NO WAY that I'd assemble them as is ........... A few ports need beveling better, some sand from casting needs better cleaning, the intake port looks like a friggin stop sign ................... squish measures from .011 - .023 without a gasket and thats just the cylinder.

I know what I purchased, and I am thankfull for being able to get in on this, but I'm going to clean up both of mine, assemble them for use, and probably just not run either of them in the buildoff ....................I doubt that I'll have time to finish it before the GTG anyway.
 

MustangMike

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I did not receive mine yet, but I'm glad I added the Cross MMWS P&C. From putting the Cross MMWS on my original 066, I'd say the piston and cabers alone are worth the upgrade price. The piston was lighter, and had wider skirts, than the OEM (KS) piston.

Plus, now I'm going to have a OEM, Huztl, and Cross MMWS all to compare at the same time!

For those who did not see it in the other threads, the Cross MMWS P&C ran about 12% faster than my OEM, and my OEM 066 was a good running cylinder, and both had the same timing advance & muff mod.

 

Definitive Dave

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My white box (farmertek?) cylinder has minimal squish without the gasket, also a bit of 'reverse squish', .017" by the cylinder wall and .013" in towards the combustion chamber.

If someone were to fix/flatten the defect/hump on the squish band would that disqualify it for class 1?

The complications begin, lol...
pop a gasket in there or maybe try a different AM cylinder?
 

wcorey

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pop a gasket in there or maybe try a different AM cylinder?

Was just a hypothetical question, I'll likely use the cross cylinder on it and who knows whether it will make it to Tn anyway.
The farmertec squishband will get flattened out, I can't get myself to use f'ed up sht like that, just bugs me.
Probably wouldn't affect performance noticeably either way but as already reported some are more extreme than this one...
 

X 66 stang347 X

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Don't be telling the secrets lol
c3ba356ac0b77d1d7214c568e6471f97.jpg
 

wcorey

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My farmertec cyl has some pretty funky timing #'s, 96, 127, 87 (without gasket).
In some ways those #'s work but...

Was planning on firing it up stock just for a baseline but now I don't think I'll bother without some grinding, if at all.
Raising the transfers 10+ degrees with no welding/epoxy on the outside doesn't bode well as far as performance goes...

Is JB weld inside the intake allowed in class 1?

Looking like class 3 may be the only viable competitive use for the farmertec...

Are we going to have a place for the build threads?
Gonna get somewhat cluttered out there if 50 of them pop up in the general chainsaw area.
 

Moparmyway

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My farmertec cyl has some pretty funky timing #'s, 96, 127, 87 (without gasket).
In some ways those #'s work but...

Was planning on firing it up stock just for a baseline but now I don't think I'll bother without some grinding, if at all.
Raising the transfers 10+ degrees with no welding/epoxy on the outside doesn't bode well as far as performance goes...

Is JB weld inside the intake allowed in class 1?

Looking like class 3 may be the only viable competitive use for the farmertec...

Are we going to have a place for the build threads?
Gonna get somewhat cluttered out there if 50 of them pop up in the general chainsaw area.
The way that I read the rules is that JB is allowed. Youre not machining anything, youre adding JB Weld. Port work is allowed in class 1 .................. thats just re-working the port
 

huskihl

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My farmertec cyl has some pretty funky timing #'s, 96, 127, 87 (without gasket).
In some ways those #'s work but...

Was planning on firing it up stock just for a baseline but now I don't think I'll bother without some grinding, if at all.
Raising the transfers 10+ degrees with no welding/epoxy on the outside doesn't bode well as far as performance goes...

Is JB weld inside the intake allowed in class 1?

Looking like class 3 may be the only viable competitive use for the farmertec...

Are we going to have a place for the build threads?
Gonna get somewhat cluttered out there if 50 of them pop up in the general chainsaw area.
Bill, I didn't put a timing wheel on mine yet, but it's really a good runner. A few seconds ahead of a stock 461 in 24" hardwood. I can see your dilemma though. To port that saw, you'd probably end up raising the transfers 15°. And it would have 1/8" of epoxy in the intake
 
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