2012 372 xtorq tuning problems
- Thread starter StihlEchoingHusky
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So how would one remedy that? I've quite literally had the low and high jet at every 1/4 to 1/8 turn in or out.
Not like a back fire popping. I referred to a bag a popcorn because the volume of the pop corn is all over the place. Like the idle on this saw. I think I may be getting closer to figuring it out. Just having a really hard time getting the screws adjusted to the right tune. This is my first Stratto saw. I don't know if that's the cause because Others I can tune just fine.
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Take a video of it and put it on YouTube. And then share it here.
I was hoping to see your username pop up on this thread. From doing research on different saw related things you pop up a lot
. Ill take a video of it when it's put back together. Currently have the cylinder in a vise. Trying to decide how imma go about doing a light port job. Thinking widen lower transfers to match gasket/ crankcase, slightly grind down that hump that's under the transfer lids,doors,hatches whatever you want to call it. What is y'all's opinion on mirror finish exhaust ports? I know on the v8s I did we mirror finished the combustion chambers and exhaust ports but on a saw? Kinda sounds like a way to possibly loose power because isn't there gas still in suspension as it exits the cylinder and some of that gets pulled back in? I see some people swear by it but I'm a little skeptical on mirror finished 2 strokes.
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You can funnel the lower transfers a little bit but there’s no sense opening them as large as the case. You’ll be into the screws that hold the covers on. There’s room to widen the exhaust a little bit alsoI was hoping to see your username pop up on this thread. From doing research on different saw related things you pop up a lot
I meant to say widen them as a funnel not just full bore widen it. I noticed the screw holes prevent you from going much farther. I'm going about as wide as the gasket on the same side as the exhaust port, so just a little pass the indentation on the cylinder and about 3/4 maybe a little less on the intake side. Quick clarification when people say widen the exhaust is that all the way through the plating as well or beveling it outwards away from it like a funnel? I can never tell what people mean. I assume its talking about grinding the nikasil.
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The way I meant it was to widen it at the plating and all the way out, making certain your walls are straight. You don’t want the exhaust port funnelled. Whatever size it is at the plating, you want the rest of the port the same size or bigger. I typically go 65–70% of the bore width as long as the skirts allow it. I stay 1.5mm in from the edge of each skirt in order for the exhaust port to seal
Vintage Engine Repairs
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First, take a moment and breathe. Your posts are written so frantically and without punctuation that it’s difficult to follow what you’re saying. This isn’t a criticism, but rather a suggestion to help others assist you effectively. Clear communication is essential so that no one’s time is wasted and problems aren’t leapfrogged over.
Consider the following points to improve clarity:
1. What is the history of this saw?
2. What issues did it have when you got it?
3. Why were so many parts replaced?
4. What other repairs or modifications have been made?
5. Can you upload a video to YouTube?
6. When did these problems first appear?
7. In simple terms, what symptoms is the saw currently exhibiting?
8. What is the condition of the exhaust side piston skirt?
9. Have you performed a pressure and vacuum test on the saw?
10. Have you pressure tested the fuel line?
11. Have you pressure tested the carburetor?
Simply replacing parts often leads to wasted time and money. Instead, work methodically to diagnose the issue.
Edit to add: Starting a port job now, midway through this thread, is likely to make your problems worse and those helping you, even harder.
Take a moment to slow down, have a cup of tea, and breathe. Don’t modify anything until the saw is in proper working condition.
Reassemble it with stock parts and focus on diagnosing one issue at a time, rather than potentially introducing new problems through porting.
Consider the following points to improve clarity:
1. What is the history of this saw?
2. What issues did it have when you got it?
3. Why were so many parts replaced?
4. What other repairs or modifications have been made?
5. Can you upload a video to YouTube?
6. When did these problems first appear?
7. In simple terms, what symptoms is the saw currently exhibiting?
8. What is the condition of the exhaust side piston skirt?
9. Have you performed a pressure and vacuum test on the saw?
10. Have you pressure tested the fuel line?
11. Have you pressure tested the carburetor?
Simply replacing parts often leads to wasted time and money. Instead, work methodically to diagnose the issue.
Edit to add: Starting a port job now, midway through this thread, is likely to make your problems worse and those helping you, even harder.
Take a moment to slow down, have a cup of tea, and breathe. Don’t modify anything until the saw is in proper working condition.
Reassemble it with stock parts and focus on diagnosing one issue at a time, rather than potentially introducing new problems through porting.
Last edited:
Ya my bad. Punctuation is something I've always been completely terrible at doing. I don't take as anything but constructive criticism. Went through a drug phase in my life at around 12 years old. I've got 10 years clean now and I'm constantly trying to find ways to better myself. Having people point out flaws only helps me realize them. Seriously I mean this I appreciate the constructive criticism.
Your right though, I realized the potential problems that I could have created as I was about to start grinding. I did figure out my problem. It was the carburetor mounting flange. The nut had started to push through the plastic. I had check it multiple times.I guess I really need to get new glasses again. My smart ass used to forget to swap my welding hood over from grind mode a lot. I guess it's really effected my eyes. I haven't swapped it out of weld mode for quite some time. I was hoping that I didn't cause that much damage.
I knew it was going to be something stupid once I figured it out. I apologize to everyone. Thank you as well.
How do I mark the thread as solved? Or am I thinking about a different forum?
Vintage Engine Repairs
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No need to apologize or justify—getting everyone on the same page just speeds up the repairs and keeps costs down! Congratulations on overcoming addiction; I can’t begin to imagine how tough that journey has been and still is. I'm glad you got your saw sorted out.
I Wasn't looking for appraisal or sympathy. I know I need to slow down and think things through. I've got 2 speeds here then gone. I appreciate it though thank you.
I'm sorry my last response was rude of me. What I meant is I wasn't looking for appraisal or sympathy, I was just stating why I greatly appreciate the constructive criticism.
