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372 xtorq to non xtorq

StihlEchoingHusky

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How many off y'all would recommend I convert my 372 to non xtorq? Is there really that big of a benefit to doing so? I understand the non xtorq is a more sought after style but is that because it's easier to port a non Stratto engine? My needs on this saw are not in terms of speed just a solid reliable work saw. I currently have a OEM hd 12 with OEM boot and flange and air filter holder. Or would it be better to use the rwj4 carburetor with the boot from the correct me if I'm wrong the 394?
 

Motorka

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Watch an learn my boy

 

Steve

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Piston, cylinder, boot, af elbow, choke lever, cylinder cover, muffler. Walbro HD or Zama C3.


You have a reliable saw right now. All the swap will do to a regulator 372 will just cost you money that you could have just spent to have your xtorq ported. Do you really need to mess with it?

I did the xtorq to xpw conversion when the 51.4 p/c were still on dealer shelves for $149.99. had it ported too. Of course, there is no comparison to stock xtorq at that point!
 

Czed

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How many off y'all would recommend I convert my 372 to non xtorq? Is there really that big of a benefit to doing so? I understand the non xtorq is a more sought after style but is that because it's easier to port a non Stratto engine? My needs on this saw are not in terms of speed just a solid reliable work saw. I currently have a OEM hd 12 with OEM boot and flange and air filter holder. Or would it be better to use the rwj4 carburetor with the boot from the correct me if I'm wrong the 394?
Not in today's market just have the XT ported beaglebriar did one for me a 2172 jonsereds it's very strong
A OE cylinder kit is 220-260.00 now.
 

PA Dan

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I put a 365 top end on a 2166 and ported it. Only thing I changed was a 390 boot. Elbow, carb, covers and muffler all worked just fine.
 

StihlEchoingHusky

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260$ for the non xtorq wouldn't bother me going on a 250$ saw. Well 250$ is what I paid for it. Now the thing is I've got a buddy that will sell me his brand new oem p&c for 130$. 380$ all together if I go for that. Atlease that way would no exactly how many hours the p&c have on it. Guy who owned it before me was felling oak with it since 2012. The thing that's got me interested is tunability. From what I read all over the place they are just a whole lot easier. Porting is something I'd just do myself. I've got a foredom xt with probably somewhere around 1000 bits or more for it.
 

pro94lt

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I would not recommend it. I would bet the average Joe could not tell the difference in them unless someone told them... Can't say anything bad about either...
 

Czed

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260$ for the non xtorq wouldn't bother me going on a 250$ saw. Well 250$ is what I paid for it. Now the thing is I've got a buddy that will sell me his brand new oem p&c for 130$. 380$ all together if I go for that. Atlease that way would no exactly how many hours the p&c have on it. Guy who owned it before me was felling oak with it since 2012. The thing that's got me interested is tunability. From what I read all over the place they are just a whole lot easier. Porting is something I'd just do myself. I've got a foredom xt with probably somewhere around 1000 bits or more for it.
The OE cylinders are getting pricey and some Porter's will port cylinders only
They have recipes and experience porting them
That's what I'd do
I'd find another OE 365 or 371/372 or XT then you'd have 2 saws.
 

Ketchup

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Ported XT’s can be excellent saws. The OE ports to a faster, snappier saw, but the XT has nice grunt and gets work done with leas fuel. I wouldn’t convert an XT unless the jug was smoked.

And porting an XT isn’t harder. If anything it’s easier because you can remove the transfer covers.
 

dangerousatom

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IMO. If it running good and has good compression just :
-open up the muffler
-delete the base gasket
-port the jug…just clean up the castings and knock down the edges
DONE

If you want to go extra
-port the carb…grind down the screw and butterfly bars
-put in a pop-up piston
 

StihlEchoingHusky

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zero benefit. don't do it.
Personally I prefer the OE saw. Don't get me wrong the xtorq is a great saw i adore mine and in my opinion it sounds way better with a smoother power band with what feels like more top end torque. But the OE feels more agile plus if I really wanted to I could build a higher rpm high HP saw without the worry of it vibrating itself apart. But I don't build race saws. Knowing what I know now I still wouldn't do it But it has all come down to preference

Ya since August I've aquired alot of saws and ported other peoples saws. I currently own a 365 special? Whatever one has closed ports also 2 OE 372s 1 xtorq a 435e a 51 and stihl 250,270,271,361,046 a homelite super 2 a xl12 and a echo cs590 and a hobo freight Atlas electric saw. Obviously there more to come. I met a ole logger in his 80s starting to go blind. His son asked me to port/ repair his old 440. (I have made a video post about it. he was extremely happy with the results I ended up with 5 more saws after that
 

bwalker

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I have a ton of time on the OE 372, with ported and stock. I loved that saw.
With that said if I had a 372XT I would leave it as is. The 372XT to my hands feels like it has a little more balls stock. I would just make sure I ran it at 32:1 with a quality oil that's on the thicker side viscosity wise.
 

pbillyi69

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will your buddy sell me that oe p/c for say 160. I already have an xpw but would very much like to add that p/c to my shelf of parts
 

MemphisMechanic

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Unless you’ve spent at least a full season cutting professionally (or a few years cutting around your own property a whole damn lot) the X-torq is a better choice, IMO.

I have owned both while running a tree service. The OE can definitely be a faster saw but you need to be more attentive when running it; with a long bar it only takes a few ounces of pressure +/- to make it sing, running really high in it’s powerband, then whoops. It catches and stalls completely. It’s higher strung, and you have to be a lot more attentive and alert.

The XT cuts at a lower RPM with more ass behind it. You have more leeway to experiment with how hard you ride on the handlebars when it’s dogged into fat hardwood with some tension trapped in it, trying to pinch you.

The average high-volume homeowner who plans to run a 28-32” bar on this saw will be much much happier behind a muffler modded or ported XT.
 
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