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1988 Ford F-150 Resto Thread!

p61 western

Ol Mudflap
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Thats alot of spot welds to cut! Cheaper than repairing my original cab though. I think matco had a nice spot weld cutter on sale with about 3 extra cutters. Ill check that out this Thursday.
Yep get a quality one for sure, and don't go all the way through lol. Wish I was close I would help you out.
 

Steve

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Yep get a quality one for sure, and don't go all the way through lol. Wish I was close I would help you out.

Hell ya! But its hard to get anything done when i have help. We usaually end up just bullshitting the night away!

Answering questions is great help. Im in no way scared of the mechanics or electrical parts of this job, just not a body man!
 

p61 western

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Hell ya! But its hard to get anything done when i have help. We usaually end up just bullshitting the night away!

Answering questions is great help. Im in no way scared of the mechanics or electrical parts of this job, just not a body man!
Hit me with any questions for sure Steve. I'm more then happy to help.
 

Steve

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Get the loose stuff off, and brush it on. It's not really meant for clean blasted metal. Oh and good morning Steve.

Morning Mike!

I wasnt going to paint the frame with it. Just wanted something to paint the bottom of the new cab to protect it till i get the body work done and while i can get into every nook and cranny.
 

p61 western

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Morning Mike!

I wasnt going to paint the frame with it. Just wanted something to paint the bottom of the new cab to protect it till i get the body work done and while i can get into every nook and cranny.
I would use 3m undercoating that way your done with it in one step.
 

alleyyooper

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I bought the etch and sprayed it on with a 10.00 HF gravity spray gun.
then I used Foam brushes I got from HF from a 1" wide to 4" wide. to apply the por 15

I got a pint from Amazon
That did the whole under side from the bottom of the fire wall to the rear bumper hangers.


Later when I got another new 10.00 spray gun I used it to spray the por 15 in all thre frame holes and cranys.
I had bought some taller Jack stands to raise it to about 24 inches to have room.

Used a paint suit and used the blue tape to tape the sleaves on the gloves and pant leg cuffs to keep the stuff off my cloths. I suggest yiu wear a paint mask also with a resperrator. Many don't but I like to just in case.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Trimaco-XL-Polypropylene-Paint-Protective-Coveralls/50271537

https://www.lowes.com/pd/VitaFlex-2...l-Polypropylene-Paint-Protective-Hood/3532616



:D Al
 

Steve

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I don't care for that rubbrized stuff as it can peel off over time or crack and let salt and water get in to rust.

:D Al

Thanks Al. I too do not want a rubberized undercoat. I worry about moisture getting trapped under it and corroding it even worse tjan without it. I really want that greasey stuff GM and Ford are putting on their truck frames now. That stuff works very well.
 

Tbrown

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Thanks Al. I too do not want a rubberized undercoat. I worry about moisture getting trapped under it and corroding it even worse tjan without it. I really want that greasey stuff GM and Ford are putting on their truck frames now. That stuff works very well.
Fluid Film

https://www.fluid-film.com/
 

Steve

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Progress tonight. Got the 302 and E4OD out of the new chassis and all plumbing and wire harnesses removed. Exhaust is in the scrap pile.
20190202_211208.jpg

Got the last of the front wire harness, core support and radiator removed from the old truck.

20190202_211231.jpg
 
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