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064 pipe saw

riverrat2

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The seller on AS said he ran it on regular fuel to test it out.
How can I tell a stroked crank and what is it (sorry I am a dummy on this)
several ways to go IE longer rod/piston crown height, smaller lighter full circle crank journals W/ taller crank pin location ETC all involve pressing crank apart, and reassembly.
when all these mods are done coupled with removable head (high compression) in a racing application the timing has to be advanced so much the original Timing flywheel key way location is irrelevant,,,

Oh and if it had been run on methanol all the fuel line plumbing would be oversized and the carb highly modded as well good thread BTW
 
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drf256

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I'd add studs for the jug Dave. Clamping it down with bolts in this case just don't seem right.

I've never built a head saw and I don't know the difficulty involved. The machine work looks shoddy in general to me.

Is there any chance that there was some extreme heat buildup that warped the jug out of round? Have you confirmed that the rubbing is gone with the jug attached? You could always toss another 066 jug on just to see if the rub is gone and reappears with the head jug.

A bent crank would really stink here.

I know you're gonna use sealant in the base this time, so I won't suggest that.
 

Chainsaw Jim

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I don't know if it is my eyes or the picture angle but the big end bearing looks toasted by the way the shaft appears to be tilting so far to the left.
 

Definitive Dave

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I will get back to this tomorrow, I made a trip to look at some Huskys today and between that, the long drive and the storm knocking out our internet I got tied up all day.
I appreciate all the advice I will put it to good use and hopefully have a fun and fast saw to show for it :)
 

thomas1

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The seller on AS said he ran it on regular fuel to test it out.
How can I tell a stroked crank and what is it (sorry I am a dummy on this)

Just google "dude stroking crank" lots of vids should come up and you'll know exactly what to look for.
 

Black Dog Chainsaw

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I will eyeball the crap out of it with the piston removed and I want to look into the crankcase and probably flush it, the pieces missing from the edge of the crankcase worry me a little too.
trace or scratch around the cylinder base (if room allows) marking how much room you have to remove material and still seal. Use foredom or dremel to clearance the case on both sides and smooth it out with emery cloth. Of course split the case and at least take the crank out before grinding. If you don't pull the bearings make sure to wash both crankcase 1/2's without oil seals to get any mag shavings out. Reassemble and double check your crank clearance.

:eusa_dance::eusa_dance::eusa_dance:
 
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