I have seen this before but if there's a bad crank seal even just by a little bit, the crankcase wouldn't be producing enough pressure to run the carburetor therefore he would be overcompensating on the high side of the carburetor to make up for at low speed. I've only seen it once before but since he just built that Chinese copy 660 I wouldn't doubt if it's a quality seal kit that's in those 660s
Yes same thought.
Yeah ok. Saw is sealed for sure. I did pressure test it when I built it and it runs perfectly with the oem carb. Has heaps of power and when not over fuelling runs rings around my oem version. Also, this 3rd china carb is not producing the same problem at the moment, just the other 2. Like I said, it revs up to 13 grand perfectly, then 2 to 3 seconds later just DUMPS fuel into the saw.
No problem I'm just trying to help.
Yeah mate I'm not having a go at you that's for sure! I appreciate your input very much. It's just the weirdest thing! I thought welch plug for sure, but that only appeared to work for a short time. The high needle is around about 1 1/4 turns out. Maybe 1.5. Please keep throwing things at me.
I'm going to follow this thread because I'm always interested in new problems. I'm always willing to learn new things. Social media is difficult to make your point across without expression. It's tough to understand each other without seeing each other and only going by words makes it more difficult.
Very true! I can assure you mate, I'm not a know it all smart arse. I value input of every kind and ain't afraid to say I don't know if I don't. And this one has me stumped.
My bad. I call all tube type fuel feeds "straws."
. Replace with second carb. repeat study the carb test
Have cleaned it so many damn times now! I really think that something has been messed up in the manufacturing stage. I have no idea what valves and other goodies are hidden deep inside but it sure seems that something in there just isn't right. And to have 2 do exactly the same thing is the weirdest part.My bad. I call all tube type fuel feeds "straws."
They/these carbs have a check valve in the high speed tube bringing your fuel up to the venturi. The blow-off valve might be messed up. When they give problems most times it is missed. They normal just seat shut or get clogged with black death. Oh boy. Black death: The junk in the bottom of an old outboard boat motor fuel tank. Think, tar like muck.
Tap it out and test it. Might just be stuck with machining dust. You can always hope.
Next place to look is in the carb body. People make mistakes in drilling port holes and fuel feed ports. maybe they left out a key air bleed or forgot a welch plug. The only way to fix it is replace or learn the entire carb and fix it. Been there, done that.
Remove carb
This ^ IS the "Correct" procedure to fix a street raced Holly carb.
Chainsaws are much eaisierer. Smash it. Call DD at CCC, done.
Your Welcome
I think that is exactly where this carb is heading!! The first one was the kit one from Huztl. The second from an Ebay seller, which came in a white box and has Walbro written on it (dodgy pricks), and the 3rd is a different Ebay seller who sent me another Farmertec one from Huztl but branded HLiC. The 3rd one works ok, but idles a bit *s-wordty. So after all this "fun" I found 2 used genuine WJ's and they were cheap, so I bought em both. My biggest fear now is that I will install one and the problem will still be there, although that shouldn't happen as my genuine 660 carb works perfectly. But that is what these aftermarket parts do to you. They make you question everything, including yourself!
Thank you Sir. I do have a number of carb manuals. Will definitely check this one out if I haven't already.
moving home.
