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The "Broken046," and how it got MOFO'd

BrokenSVT

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drf256

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One oddity. The new oem Stihl piston has none of the defining horizontal machining lines. It's certainly oem, 100%.

But it's shiny like a meteor. No scoring at all. Some combusted mix on it I can wipe off. Must be blow by. Rings still need to seat I guess.

IMG-20170821-WA0216.jpg IMG-20170821-WA0217.jpg
 

CapitaineHaddoc

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Great Job Al!

If you don't mind, I have a question about the 046...

Last year one of my oldest coworkers brougt me one of his 046, he has at least 4 of them, it's his favourite model. I made the "classics mods", basket delete, timing advance, mild muffler mod...and the saw is far more impressive. So impressive, he don't use the others anymore.

Yesterday he brought me another one, and he asked for the same treatment.

So here's the question, with my little knowledge and my brand new set of carbide burrs, what kind of other mods can I "safely" add to the saw (enlarging the exhaust? the intake? should I raise or lower something?) The guy will use only "18 bars on this saw.
 

blsnelling

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That's a good coil. Those are hard to find. From what I've heard they have a better/more aggressive timing advance.
The timing is only retarded at idle, then quickly goes to full advance once above idle. It's done only to aid starting. If final timing is set the same, the curve isn't going to affect WOT at all.
 

Chainsaw Addict

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Great Job Al!

If you don't mind, I have a question about the 046...

Last year one of my oldest coworkers brougt me one of his 046, he has at least 4 of them, it's his favourite model. I made the "classics mods", basket delete, timing advance, mild muffler mod...and the saw is far more impressive. So impressive, he don't use the others anymore.

Yesterday he brought me another one, and he asked for the same treatment.

So here's the question, with my little knowledge and my brand new set of carbide burrs, what kind of other mods can I "safely" add to the saw (enlarging the exhaust? the intake? should I raise or lower something?) The guy will use only "18 bars on this saw.
If he is only running a short bar, seems like it won't benefit / unnecessary to do mods. I know, blasphemy.

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Toad22t

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Great Job Al!

If you don't mind, I have a question about the 046...

Last year one of my oldest coworkers brougt me one of his 046, he has at least 4 of them, it's his favourite model. I made the "classics mods", basket delete, timing advance, mild muffler mod...and the saw is far more impressive. So impressive, he don't use the others anymore.

Yesterday he brought me another one, and he asked for the same treatment.

So here's the question, with my little knowledge and my brand new set of carbide burrs, what kind of other mods can I "safely" add to the saw (enlarging the exhaust? the intake? should I raise or lower something?) The guy will use only "18 bars on this saw.

If he is only running a 18" bar, put a 8 pin sprocket on it, if he doesn't run one already. Maybe even a 9 pin if he wants to fork over the cash for one. Chain speed would be very impressive for him.
 

drf256

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Great Job Al!

If you don't mind, I have a question about the 046...

Last year one of my oldest coworkers brougt me one of his 046, he has at least 4 of them, it's his favourite model. I made the "classics mods", basket delete, timing advance, mild muffler mod...and the saw is far more impressive. So impressive, he don't use the others anymore.

Yesterday he brought me another one, and he asked for the same treatment.

So here's the question, with my little knowledge and my brand new set of carbide burrs, what kind of other mods can I "safely" add to the saw (enlarging the exhaust? the intake? should I raise or lower something?) The guy will use only "18 bars on this saw.
I'd say it depends Bill.

If you get a good D jug, not because of the chamber itself but because of the better timing on some, I bet it will be great with the simple mods.

Unless you're using a degree wheel, have some experience, and can do chamfers well, I'd say not to touch the ports. Try a less rare jug first.

You can gasket delete and sand the band for squish increase if needed.
 

Frank bierce

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I'd say it depends Bill.

If you get a good D jug, not because of the chamber itself but because of the better timing on some, I bet it will be great with the simple mods.

Unless you're using a degree wheel, have some experience, and can do chamfers well, I'd say not to touch the ports. Try a less rare jug first.

You can gasket delete and sand the band for squish increase if needed.

What about sanding the base?? :facepalm:
 

RI Chevy

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Odd. 044 has the lines, 046 is smooth.
 

MustangMike

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What about sanding the base?? :facepalm:

Generally, on a 044/440 you can delete the base gasket and the squish will be about .020.

Generally on a 046/460, when you delete the base gasket squish is tighter than than, so cutting or sanding the band is necessary.

Likely it is best not to mod it more than that unless you are putting a timing wheel on it.

My 044 & 440 run great with a base gasket delete and no port work.
 
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