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MG2186

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Randy, Perkins used only one cam bushing. The front cam journal rides on a bushing. the back three journals ride directly on the cast iron block. Some very early 4.236 used no bushing.
When removing original liners I've noticed it takes over 30 ton to get them moving. The original liners are press fit, finish bored and honed in place("en situ" as the service manual states). If it has been rebuilt, it likely has slip fit service liners which will come out much easier.
In the O/H kits, Service liners(slip fit, pre finished...) are supplied. It's a common mistake is to use them. There are three different designs of liners Perkins used throughout the production life of the 4.236. Of those three designs, there are 2-5 options of each(over sized, finished, unfinished, chrome...).
From the picture of the piston roast, it looks like you have the 1st or 2nd design. If you have 1st design, update to 2nd design p#31358394 for the finished liner, 31358393 for unfinished. Double check the p#'s, sometimes my memory fails me.
Back to the common mistake. After you press out the liners, check the liner parent bores in the block. After many years of thermal cycling, they can grow and be out of round. The service liner calls for .001" clearance to .001" interference("transition fit"). If you are handing it over to your local machine shop, make damn sure your he checks it. I have seen more than one guy screwed by his local machine shop when he failed to check the parent bore and address the bores condition. Failure of this will score pistons within hours repeatedly until rectified. Every block I ever checked the parent bores, was borderline bad. I pressed in the unfinished liner which is a press fit instead of a slip fit. Then had the unfinished liner bored and honed to size. That way I slept well at night knowing that hole was round and true.
If you want, post a pic of a liner after it is pressed out and I'll identify it.
This a common problem with people installing dry press fit sleeves! There's quite a few more streps that need taken to be done right and a lot of mechanics/machine shops don't like taking the time to do it right! I've seen this quite often with the IH 361/407 engine also. You know just stick the sleeves in the freezer and pound them in...... This usually never ends up good!!! Good tips and points Dieselfitter!
 

MG2186

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31358393 is the correct number for an unfinished press fit liner, 2nd design, flanged with fire ring.
Don't worry about it for now. Once yours are removed, we will positively identify what you have and I'll recommend a supplier.
Guys have used a stick welder to help remove the liner. Weld a bead inside the bore from top to bottom, let cool and tap it out. The weld shrinks the liner. I am not brave enough to try it. I would screw up, my weld would penetrate and weld the liner to the block.
I've done that before, it's best to get the right puller and do it the proper way though
 

czar800

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You working on a late or early 282? Heavy or light pressed fit?


It's been years ago now. We had several tractors with 282's. The one I rebuilt when I just got out of high school and left the shim's off was a 1968 656.

I believe it was a light fit? That was the first motor I overhauled on my own and I set the liners and my dad walks in and "asked" how are you planning on getting these in? As he holds up the shim's.
So I got the thing running and it had a water leak.... It was leaking water external form the head gasket.... I found out I followed the torque specs for gas engine.
 

jakethesnake

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You get this piece back together ? I had been curious I was just looking at a stuck all is chalmers hoe. Gonna try to rock it back and forth a little. Cylinders are filled up with blaster now gonna see if she comes loose or just tear her down. I know very little about this machine cept the fella wants to use it around his property. He let rain run down the pipe too long. She may be junk I'll give it another go when it's not 100 out
 

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Sadly, I've not been able to afford the parts to get it back together yet. Too many other things I'm having to spend on right now.
 

jakethesnake

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I see and understand If it doesn't rain soon I'm gonna go broke crop prices are bad and may not have much volume to move You'll get her back up Was just curious about it
 

jakethesnake

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I'm working on my haybine as well having some knife issues might buy a new knife to try what type of bine you run
 

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I just use a NH-451 sickle bar. It's a good mower, and I just bale about 20 acres right now. After I mow, I go over it with a tedder to spread it thin. That helps it dry a lot faster.
 

jakethesnake

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A sickle bar would work for me fine as well I do grass and barley/rye nothing that needs conditioning really. I don't have a Tedder I've seen many time I wish I did I have to use the rake to move it around a little I just bale round for my cows. Not a huge deal as I don't sell many bales
 

fordf150

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I'm redoing my mower right now. New sections on the bar. It's not too expensive to fix up right. I'll be mowing hay in a week or two, so that is top priority.
sections from NH hold up much better than the cheap stuff from TSC or the like. I used to replace sections every year on my haybine till i started getting them from the NH dealer, I think my current ones have been on there for 3 years. They need replaced though, starting to get dull and got quite a few with nicks and chunks missing out of them
 

czar800

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exSW

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No problem with the hydraulics on the old Farmall running the swing boom?
 

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I have a chance to get a New Idea 5 X 4 round baler. It wasn't wanting to lift the door all the way up, so Doyle parked it in the shed. It's too small for his tastes anyway. Do y'all know anything about those balers?
 
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