I Need Some Chaps

[Philbert]

My Husqvarna chaps (several years old) were made in Mexico.

Philbert

 

[3browns]

I feel like I opened Pandora's Box here

But it is certainly shining a light on just how many people are making chaps, how many methods, formulas, combinations of materials are out there

Essentially that is why I started this thread; to see how far we had progressed in the years since I last bought chaps

I wasn't looking for the cheapest but I also believe now that you can get a GOOD set without breaking the bank

I am not saying the BEST set because apparently that title is up for grabs, but a good pair at a decent price

Again, just looking for options

I am just as sure that if you cheap out you are essentially going to end up with weedeater chaps and when you need them you are going to regret it

As always, YMMV

Peace

 

[Philbert]

Longest article I've seen on chainsaw chaps and pants.

Interesting: the 'A' 'B', and 'C' levels of coverage described are different than those described for the European standard, in another article I read.

Several models, all in French.

There was a 'translate this page' option at the top when I opened it. Thanks!

I feel like I opened Pandora's Box here. But it is certainly shining a light on just how many people are making chaps, how many methods, formulas, combinations of materials are out there . . . . Essentially that is why I started this thread; to see how far we had progressed in the years since I last bought chaps

This is the place to explore this type of nerdy stuff! I have learned a lot in the last few days! Thanks!

Philbert

 

[3browns]

My Husqvarna chaps (several years old) were made in Mexico.

Philbert

And apparently that hasn't changed


I worked at a lumber/molding mill in El Paso in the 70s and 80s

We had a twin plant in Juarez

That was during the beginnings of NAFTA

There were tons of twin plants set up and many were making clothing

One made women's underwear and did 99% of the sewing over there, shipped them across to El Paso, sewed on a flower or bow, and a label that said MADE in USA

righttttttttt

 

[3browns]

This is the place to explore this type of nerdy stuff! I have learned a lot in the last few days! Thanks!

Philbert

As have I

I am almost ready for the pop quiz on Friday...

 

[Cloggerpro]

As have I

I am almost ready for the pop quiz on Friday...

 

[Cloggerpro]

I feel like I opened Pandora's Box here

But it is certainly shining a light on just how many people are making chaps, how many methods, formulas, combinations of materials are out there

Essentially that is why I started this thread; to see how far we had progressed in the years since I last bought chaps

I wasn't looking for the cheapest but I also believe now that you can get a GOOD set without breaking the bank

I am not saying the BEST set because apparently that title is up for grabs, but a good pair at a decent price

Again, just looking for options

I am just as sure that if you cheap out you are essentially going to end up with weedeater chaps and when you need them you are going to regret it

As always, YMMV

Peace

At the end of the day, good is meeting the applicable UL standard, it would be uncommon for them to be much above that regardless of price. A very very cheap pair of chaps that genuinely meets the UK standard will stop the saw the same as a very expensive pair that meets the same size but that is about where the comparison stops, much like a Ferrari will get you from a to b same as a beat up pickup truck. The extra you pay for in this case is branding and comfort. The difference in comfort between cheap and expensive is much more significant than you may believe...

 

[Definitive Dave]

Cheap chain is BS and has no place in my tool box, period.

@Definitive Dave

I'm sure your three cube is faster but...
What is the chain speed of your five cube saw on change-overs free revving over the cant?

Race saws built for competition in cants can hit speeds of 15-18k pretty easily out of the wood without a lot of loss in the cuts

 

[Rob Stafari]

I have the labonville full wraps and a pair of clogger zero. Will throw on the chaps if just doing some quick cutting. Working all day, pants it is. The zeros are extremely comfortable for what they are. Keep in mind you still have a blanket covering the front of your legs. They do a great job of helping to keep you cooler despite that fact.

Absolutely fabulous climbing pants with the stretch and fit, which can only be likened to that of yoga pants. Everybody will be checking out your arse. It is what it is, if you are shy or uncomfortable with that, they may not be the pants for you. I say go for it and embrace that chit.

The pockets are far better situated to climbing, where you aren't toting much around that isn't strapped to you saddle. You can fit the smallest stihl wedge in the thigh pocket, which gets me by, but a pocket redesign would certainly make them all around more user friendly on the ground as well as in the air.

Labonvilles don't need much said because they are an old school tried and trued design. When people are milling with me they get to wear them and be jealous of my form fitting, cool wearing, stretchy and comfortable cloggers while donning my hot assless chaps that are more prone to snagging and restrict movement a bit compared to a good pair of pants.

That is all I have for now my friends. Have a great Thursday and stay safe out there. Welcome to the forum @Cloggerpro. Thank you for sharing some of your knowledge with us.

 

[Woodpecker]

At the end of the day, good is meeting the applicable UL standard, it would be uncommon for them to be much above that regardless of price. A very very cheap pair of chaps that genuinely meets the UK standard will stop the saw the same as a very expensive pair that meets the same size but that is about where the comparison stops, much like a Ferrari will get you from a to b same as a beat up pickup truck. The extra you pay for in this case is branding and comfort. The difference in comfort between cheap and expensive is much more significant than you may believe...

This is best answer material right here fellas. It's great to have you here @Cloggerpro

I'd love to be able to wear shorts and chaps for saw work, but it's just not a professional look for me with my clients.

I have tried many of the chainsaw pants/trousers on the market here in the US. From cheap all the way up to the most expensive. I needed them to be flexible and not too hot for arborist climbing work. I ended up settling on the clogger zeros.

I found the point above to be true. Initially I didn't want to spend big money on chainsaw protective pants, but ultimately did because the Cloggers were the best fit for me. The cheaper pants were either very hot, didn't fit well, weren't made well, etc. The one thing that I have found with the cloggers is that the material that they are made of tents to pick, but they have held up alright.

I also think another point that was brought up is important. For people looking to purchase new chainsaw protection it might be wise to avoid kevlar. As I understand it Kevlar breaks down over time and becomes less effective. The problem with this is how do you know when this has happened? You cannot see to visually inspect. You cannot test without destroying. The more I thought about it the more a nextgen material became important. YMMV

 

[lehman live edge slab]

formula for chain speed in fpm

 

[lehman live edge slab]

3/8” chain on a 11 pitch sprocket turning 18,000 rpm works out to 12,375 fpm chain speed. So faster than I was thinking but at this speed might need more than chaps to stop the possibility of a crank failure

 

[Lightning Performance]

3/8” chain on a 11 pitch sprocket turning 18,000 rpm works out to 12,375 fpm chain speed. So faster than I was thinking but at this speed might need more than chaps to stop the possibility of a crank failure

Clearly I was not talking motor RPM.

Now tell me a 15 16 17 pin don't get north of 15k fpm.

 

[lehman live edge slab]

How many saws are you running 15-17 pin on ? And if you are no chaps rated for it. Better wear cut pants with chaps over them

 

[Philbert]

formula for chain speed in fpm

Played with this in an A.S. post several years back:
https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/chain-saw-math.107300/

Began again, recently, with the numbers in Post #73 in this thread. It does not take much of a saw to exceed some of the lower threshold chain speeds. Wonder why saw horsepower is not factored in these standards: a 70cc saw running full sized 3/8 pitch chain would seem to keep going in situations where a 40cc saw running 3/8 low profile ('Picco') chain at the same speed might stall out.

3/8” chain on a 11 pitch sprocket turning 18,000 rpm works out to 12,375 fpm chain speed.

I didn't check your calculations, but if you are running an 11 tooth sprocket, and turning 18K RPM, you kinda' have to assume that you will be living over the edge, so to speak! Might want pants AND chaps, or one of those EOD suits from The Hurt Locker!

Philbert

 

[Philbert]

Better wear cut pants with chaps over them

You posted that while I was posting that!

Philbert

 

[lehman live edge slab]

17 pin on a saw must require a custom bar, I know when I was helping my uncle figure out a wood processor he was building for someone we needed to take a harvester bar and cut the end off,then re machine the bar slot and oiler holes. None of the bars we could buy off the shelf were tall enough to accept the drive sprocket he needed with his motor/pump combo for the surface speed he wanted. Originally we were going to gear the drive up between the motor and sprocket to achieve the rpm we wanted but he wanted direct off motor so we had to make a custom bar. The sprocket was so large the chain came at the bar from a reverse angle. Sprocket was like 5/8” bigger in diameter than the bar was tall at mount. So custom bar with custom chains is what he got.

 

[Woodpecker]

17 pin on a saw must require a custom bar, I know when I was helping my uncle figure out a wood processor he was building for someone we needed to take a harvester bar and cut the end off,then re machine the bar slot and oiler holes. None of the bars we could buy off the shelf were tall enough to accept the drive sprocket he needed with his motor/pump combo for the surface speed he wanted. Originally we were going to gear the drive up between the motor and sprocket to achieve the rpm we wanted but he wanted direct off motor so we had to make a custom bar. The sprocket was so large the chain came at the bar from a reverse angle. Sprocket was like 5/8” bigger in diameter than the bar was tall at mount. So custom bar with custom chains is what he got.

You may want to have a look at some of the racing saw threads on here. Modification of the tail on bars is the norm.

 

[lehman live edge slab]

I’m sure it is, I also don’t have anything like that yet maybe someday. In this particular application if it had been mine I would have geared the motor output up before the sprocket to get desired chain speed so I could run stock bars and chains. It is a processor and hitting nails and whatever else’s with custom chains and having to mod a bar every time you need one might not be so convenient. On a hot saw with limited use it wouldn’t be as large a deal

 

[3browns]

So I went to the Labonville site and checked the specs on wrap chaps

Kevlar and Polyester

Mine are going on 8 years old

Gotta wonder about material breakdown as others have mentioned

I have hand washed them a couple of times