High Quality Chainsaw Bars Husqvarna Toys

Husky 372xp tips and tricks - my first husky rebuild

mdavlee

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I usually run them about halfway or so with 20" or shorter. If it's using a 28" or longer wide open.
 

Brewz

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Ahhh the bloke sent me an email saying he had decided to keep it.

Oh well.

Question.

Do people install the crank seals before the case goes back together or after?
 

Brewz

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I have put them in after on all my other rebuilds, I just thought to myself....... I wonder if that's the correct way?

Good point on the heat.
I do like to get the case nice and warm so it slides on easy.
Hammers and bearings dont mix well.
 

Mattyo

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the 200t chassis you put them in first, but thats the only one I've done so far like that....

also, the big end bearings of some saws, 385xp for instance, have a seal that is integral. so you can't avoid heating that.... but 372 .... put them in after :)
 

Brewz

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Parts are starting to trickle in.
I have the tiny little O ring and a new OEM oil pump seal for the pipe that supplies the bar.
I am itching for the rest of the bits!
 
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VinceGU05

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Went and ordered the o ring and oil pump pipe rubber grommet today.

$6 and $7 respectively.

Bearings were $14 for a pair of 6202 C3's

All up I am at $286 for parts and that includes a new 20"GB arbour pro bar and Oregon chain
did you get the bearings from a bearing shop? i got 6203 c 3 for $3.85 . that being a slightly smaller bearing should be a bit cheaper.
 

Brewz

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Yeah got them from a CBC bearing dealership.

There used to be 2 shops locally that sold bearings but CBC bought the smaller business out and guess what happened to prices with no competition.

The smaller shop used to sell 2 bearings this size for about $5 each.

These were 2RS bearings and I have to pick the seals out which probably puts the price up a bit but its all they stock.
 

Brewz

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Is it worth lightly rounding off the lip on the bottom of the cylinder that leads into the lowers?
 

Brewz

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New bearings went on easy
Warmed the case halves and it all slid together.
Tapped in the new seals
Piston went on easy

I got to there and stopped so I could read back through the "put this on first before you do that" advice in this thread

To be continued tomorrow

WP_20160504_20_01_16_Pro.jpg

WP_20160504_20_11_41_Pro.jpg

WP_20160504_21_14_07_Pro.jpg
 

Simondo

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Brewz

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One little thing I did find was the rubber grommet that seals the bar oil pipe into the oil pump was broken.
May explain the copious amounts of oil all over the saw.

WP_20160505_14_34_51_Pro.jpg

Also, the plastic air shroud around the flywheel was broken and I was pleasantly surprised to find there were AM replacements available.
Quality is very good and it fit perfect.

WP_20160505_15_30_14_Pro.jpg
 

Brewz

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Question for those running these saws.

Where do you usually run the oil pump for a 20" bar?
It has 4 turns of adjustment.
 

Brewz

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The local dealership quoted $900 in parts to fix it, and that was just a top end replacement, bar and chain.

I got this full rebuild done for $287.08 Aus dollars including the new pro solid bar and Oregon chain.

They sell for between $650 and $850 second hand needing work so I recon I did well.
 
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