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Husky 372xp tips and tricks - my first husky rebuild

Mattyo

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heat or not, putting lateral force on a bearing is not good.... that tool he uses grabs from the outside of the case and draws the crank through the inner race of the bearing, possibly putting a flat on the bearings themselves. i see more danger in that than I do stripping bolts out of the case. you'll know if you strip a bolt, you won't find out till later if you flat a bearing.

also, I find it difficult to heat bearings properly, so i'll work on a tool :)
 

Tor R

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Most of the service tools from Husky work with preasure on crankcase, and drag the crank through the inner bearing, simple as that, in principe the same preasure that is put on the bearing when we use the crankcase screws to drag the two halfs together.
Service tool are far better to use compared to drag the two halfs together with bolts as @panteliss highlight.
Personally I prefer to use heat, that said, the perfect tool would be to drag the crank through the bearing with preasure only on the inner bearing
 

Mattyo

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"the perfect tool would be to drag the crank through the bearing with preasure only on the inner bearing"

exactly .... i'll work on it one day :)
 

panteliss

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STIHL 5910 890 2202 with pressure only in the inner bearing , for now made for some trimmers , but maybe with the correct modifications will work and to many chainsaws

s-l500.jpg
 

panteliss

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heat or not, putting lateral force on a bearing is not good.... that tool he uses grabs from the outside of the case and draws the crank through the inner race of the bearing, possibly putting a flat on the bearings themselves. i see more danger in that than I do stripping bolts out of the case. you'll know if you strip a bolt, you won't find out till later if you flat a bearing.

also, I find it difficult to heat bearings properly, so i'll work on a tool :)

take a good soldering iron wrap a coper wire around it and put it to the inner bearing
go to 250 celsius for cases the bearings fall down themselfs dont be afraid the magnesium have melting point about 700 ceslius
 

Mattyo

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that would be the tool... nice

like the idea of the copper wire and soldering iron....right now I just shoot the torch THROUGH the inner race and it seems to heat up fine, but the soldering iron is a neat trick as well
 

panteliss

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that would be the tool... nice

like the idea of the copper wire and soldering iron....right now I just shoot the torch THROUGH the inner race and it seems to heat up fine, but the soldering iron is a neat trick as well

I tell you something true . i have all the stihl and husqvarna tools , but i tell you the truth if you find the best temperature for the inner bearing you will close the crankcases without to need the screws and without to need any of theese specialty tools

i have listen a ton of bull .......... theories for the temperatures from about thousands of einstaines experts dont go over 120 or dont go over 130 or 140 all are bull......

i go to 250 and 300 celsius about everyday on customers saws that cost 1000 and over euros never one of theese customers tell me hey mister i have problem , the bearings go in themselfs and the cases close again themselfs without to use any of theese magic pullers . i have pullers that never used just a good design on the work bench , tools that cost 300 - 400 and many have fall in love with them , you know something theese 300-400 eu tools have work once or twice

after all theese the big trick and the big truth is find the best temperature that will give you the best results
 

RIDE-RED 350r

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When I put cases together with a press, I jig it up with deep well sockets that push only on the inner bearing races. I too have concerns over applying lateral force on the rollers and the tracks they ride in inside the bearing. I could see a crack in the bearing tracks occurring if too much force is applied. The harder steel is, like the steel that makes up the rollers and their races or tracks the more brittle it tends to be. With a frozen crank it works real slick. But I understand that not everyone has a press or access to one sometimes.
 

Brewz

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Goes good for a bog stock saw with just a bit of a muffler mod.
I have to say the old husky has grown on me a bit, but I am not converted.

Held it up side by side with my brothers 044 and they are very similar weight wise, but the husky balances better
 

Tor R

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Goes good for a bog stock saw with just a bit of a muffler mod.
I have to say the old husky has grown on me a bit, but I am not converted.

Held it up side by side with my brothers 044 and they are very similar weight wise, but the husky balances better
you did a beautiful rebuild, and it was one of your first classic Husky as well! This thread has been a great one, we had lots of discussion here, last was different teqnicue how to put them together with tools, heat or not

You may not be 100% converted yet but I can sense you have got the taste now hehe
 

Brewz

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Well, the owner just picked it up and was so happy with it he paid me more than what I told him

He said he has lots of logging mates with saws that are not happy with what it costs to have them repaired, and said when they see his saw I will have plenty to fix
 

Brewz

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The local shop quoted him $1150 to patch it up, and I did it for $468 for a full rebuild with a new bar and chain.
He gave me $490 for it and almost skipped out the door.

$190 in my pocket and he saved $660
They sell for $700 to $800 second hand here too.

Saws are expensive here and OEM spares are criminally priced. Easily 3 to 5 times the cost you guys in the states see.
Because new saws are very pricey, they need to quote repairs of old saws to make people buy new saws.

Thats where the money is to be made for a backyard bloke like me.
The money actually isn't too bad.

I could have charged a higher hourly rate and fixed it for $700 and he still would have been happy but I am still learning and am not greedy.

There is money to be made there though.
 

RIDE-RED 350r

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Brews I'm in the same boat as you an Mattyo! It started last fall with a coworker bringing me a dead 394 that is owned by his second job at a local tree service. Did that overhaul successfully and have done several more saw repairs ranging from complete overhauls to minor repairs for the tree service and other friends/coworkers. I have done pretty well at it, on one job the tree service was going to pay me $200 for a repair and took a blown up 394 instead of the cash. That was a win for me!

Now I have two weed eaters in my garage to be fixed for yet another fella, and I hear from one of my other satisfied customers/coworkers that there is a Stihl 056 that needs to come visit me soon too.. Seems like as time goes on, I get more and more side jobs. And I'm not even advertising, people just keep bringing me stuff! LOL! And this morning, another coworker asked if I would be interested in doing some type of service work to his brother in law's boat! I have a couple boats myself, and I do my own maintenance and repairs but I haven't worked on boats for other people yet... It's all gravy, but damn if I'm not losing ground on working on my own stuff lately...

Sucks that saws and saw repairs are so crazy high for you all down there. That's a real kick to the bag!
 
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