Husky 372xp tips and tricks - my first husky rebuild

[Tor R]

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The local dealership quoted $900 in parts to fix it, and that was just a top end replacement, bar and chain.

I got this full rebuild done for $287.08 Aus dollars including the new pro solid bar and Oregon chain.

They sell for between $650 and $850 second hand needing work so I recon I did well.

you did a beautiful rebuild.
It's the same crazy oem part prices in Norway also, but there is something good with that also, it gives us a chance to get scored saws cheap and we can always buy top end from US....
First I was bitter about oem prices now I see the advance it gives us.

 

[Brewz]

I am hearing you.

I need to speak with my local dealers and find out if they do anything with any old saws.

That conversation will be had tomorrow

 

[VinceGU05]

Mission success!

When it was given to me the muffler was off already and the heads of the screws that hold it on are rounded out.
Will have to get 2 new ones tomorrow before I can fire it up

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Be a real Stihl head and just replace all the screws with T27 screws[emoji6][emoji1360]

 

[Brewz]

Haha Thats the one thing that that *s-word me off with this saw.

3 different hex head sized and screw driver heads, and the bar nuts are only 13mm.

Stihl have that one in the bag!
One driver and one spanner needed for everything.

I like the Husky, but I am far from converted

 

[Tor R]

I am hearing you.

I need to speak with my local dealers and find out if they do anything with any old saws.

That conversation will be had tomorrow

thats what I did in Norway, figured out XP projects from different dealers are so cheap that I have quit totally to check ebay
Please update us what you figure out, would love if you can get the same nice deals where you live

 

[Simondo]

Haha Thats the one thing that that *s-word me off with this saw.

3 different hex head sized and screw driver heads, and the bar nuts are only 13mm.

Stihl have that one in the bag!
One driver and one spanner needed for everything.

I like the Husky, but I am far from converted

Dont convert .....Expand !

 

[RIDE-RED 350r]

Great job Brewz!

Squish clearance is about perfect, and you will likely find it opens up 2 or 3 thousandths more with the sealant in place. If I recall my 372XPW came in at .023" with sealant in place. The stuff spreads thin, but it does occupy a wee bit of space still.

On the bar oil adjustment: Honestly, I have never counted the turns out on mine. I found that with the 24" bar mine is running that where it was from the dealership was pretty good. I may have opened it up 1 click though if I remember correct. With saws I have rebuilt, I set the oiler kind of high and turn it down little by little and make a few cuts as I do so. I don't want the oil running out and soaking everything when cutting, but I don't want it too dry either. YMMV with oiler settings depending on the species and dryness of the wood you are cutting. I don't think there is a one-size-fits-all magic setting for a specific bar length in all possible circumstances. In your case, I would just make sure she's oiling good and pass it back to your friend letting him know he may need to set the oil pump to his liking.

 

[Brewz]

I don't plan on handing it back this clean.

I will be running a tank or 2 through it first to break it in and make sure everything is ok with it

 

[Brewz]

I just cranked it up, tuned it so it would idle and let it warm up.

Gave it a minute or so at half revs to let everything settle in.

Tuned it to 13200 and ran it for several cuts in some wood.

It runs really well.
Steady revs, smooth and strong.

Brought it back in the garage and when I sat it on the bench I herd it make a sort of pressurised squirting sound.
Looked underneath and it is dribbling clean bar oil.

Looks like I am going back in

 

[Mattyo]

yup, been there

always gremlins in my saws... good things you are putting it through its paces after rebuild

 

[Brewz]

I wasn't going to hand it back untested.

I suspect the oil is coming from the oil tank hose.
The heat off the muffler would pressurize the tank and make it leak past if it is not sealing well.

I did not replace it as it looked really good, but I will go order one today

 

[Brewz]

Took out the back, hit with degreaser and hosed off all the oil.

1/4 tank of fuel and it was covered in oil.

Sat it back down on the bench and after half hour there is oil slowly leaking from where the hose comes out of the tank.

I have ordered a new hose which should fix the issue.

It was literally dribbling out when the saw hot hot and the contents of the tank expanded

 

[RIDE-RED 350r]

I hate to ask this, but the oil tank should be vented somehow. Did you verify the vent was clean and not plugged before assembling the case?

A problem like that would have me thinking the oil tank is not venting properly.

 

[Tor R]

I hate to ask this, but the oil tank should be vented somehow. Did you verify the vent was clean and not plugged before assembling the case?

A problem like that would have me thinking the oil tank is not venting properly.

it should be this valve?
https://www.partstree.com/parts/husqvarna/parts/537040301/
Same valve through most of the 3xx serie saws

 

[VinceGU05]

Aren't vents designed to be a one way vent? Let air in as oil goes out not to create a vacuum in the tank.

 

[Brewz]

Where is it on the saw?
I didn't see it

 

[Brewz]

Well I found the vent.
It lives in the middle of the bar mount area.

Can someone confirm if it is designed to let air in or pressure out?

Oil leaks from the hose when it is just sitting there cold so I would say the issue is old compressed rubber that wont make a good seal any more

 

[Tor R]

Well I found the vent.
It lives in the middle of the bar mount area.

Can someone confirm if it is designed to let air in or pressure out?

Oil leaks from the hose when it is just sitting there cold so I would say the issue is old compressed rubber that wont make a good seal any more

it's probleby the hose, or the rubber around the hose from oil pump who is the issue. I am not familiar with 3xx serie but the valve can only work one way, let air in.
I have one nice 372 with few hours, leak like a pig from the area around the oil pump

 

[mdavlee]

You can open the valve with a tiny piece through the little hole. I would push on it with something and see if it springs back. If not you may need a new one.

 

[Brewz]

Checked it and its working fine..... Thank god!
I did NOT want to split the case again.

I am thinking I will degrease the hole where the oil hole fits in and use a small bead of oil resistant silicone to help it seal