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How would you buck this tree?

Woodpecker

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HEY... you got it! Only differences I see are that I think the entire trunk is slanted down from the roots to the tip in the ground. And, I think the trunk is quite a bit longer.

How far off the ground at its highest point? At the root ball? Near the top? Your drawing makes it look like it's quite aways. The higher off the ground it is the more dangerous. Junkman has it right your going to really want a big saw and long enough bar to make cuts in one pass.
 

livemusic

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How far off the ground at its highest point? At the root ball? Near the top? Your drawing makes it look like it's quite aways. The higher off the ground it is the more dangerous. Junkman has it right your going to really want a big saw and long enough bar to make cuts in one pass.

I was only able to see it from maybe 200 feet away but I'd say its highest point is at the root ball and the trunk is 4-6 feet off the ground there. All the pressure/tension extends down that trunk to the left.
 

Greenthorn

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Livem, this isn't too difficult. You will not get any good advice until we see some actual pictures. We have got to know where the stresses are at, that's why nobody can give good advice, till we see them. The major concern is how the root ball is going to react after being cut on the log. The part that is stuck in the ground is probably where it branched off, and somebody just cut the easiest crap. 90 percent of what I cut is blowdowns and storm damage. It's not too bad, if it is planned out correctly. Got to have some real pics, I would not mess with it until you get back with us here with some pics, don't worry the wood is not going anywhere!
 
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Normzilla

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View attachment 5989 So it basically is like this...
Piece of cake, cut the upper limb first, then buck the chunk off attached to it. Then cut a wedge out of the limb holding it up, go half way through or so. Then undercut it. Then u have the main log, and root mass. Cut wedges out off the top the same, and start bucking. Or cut it at the root mass, same principles, wedge out top side, then undercut. Every tree is boobie trapped, some more than others.
 

junkman

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Be ready for the rootball to stand up on you and flop back upright when cutting off the stump,you will need a few wedges so yo do not pinch your bar ,if was closer i would lop it off for you but am not ,be careful and if unsure of your skills get help,that thing most likely will go slow ,but it could come at you too ,logs are heavier than they look and have a mind of their own sometimes.
 

Greenthorn

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Piece of cake, cut the upper limb first, then buck the chunk off attached to it. Then cut a wedge out of the limb holding it up, go half way through or so. Then undercut it. Then u have the main log, and root mass. Cut wedges out off the top the same, and start bucking. Or cut it at the root mass, same principles, wedge out top side, then undercut. Every tree is boobie trapped, some more than others.

The picture I showed was an example, not the actual tree. I don't cut my blow downs that way. I notch the bottoms, then cut the top, but that's me. The stress may be pushing up or down, I feel that I have more control of what the log or root ball is going to do when my release cut is from the top. If the root has most of the stress I cut from the right side, if the top or log has most of the stress I cut from the left side. I could be wrong though, I am not saying you're wrong, just how I have always done it.
Here's my latest example.... this tree - both trees... one was 38" the other was 42", they were twin trunked trees. The 42" incher was 134' and hanging over a valley, and they were blow downs.
 

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riverrat2

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I was only able to see it from maybe 200 feet away but I'd say its highest point is at the root ball and the trunk is 4-6 feet off the ground there. All the pressure/tension extends down that trunk to the left.
How far are you from Many, LA
 

countryhog

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So you've said the top of the tree rests ON the ground and you've said it is IN the ground. Which is it?
Starting to sound academic cause don't think we'll ever see pix
Just sayin
 
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If the trunk is suspended in air because the top is on the ground then personally i would cut it off close to the top to relieve pressure. Then cut it off the root ball. First cut being on the top side to weaken it and then cut from bottom up this being the initial cut to remove the top. When you cut it off the root ball the stump will likely return to it's original place.
 

Woodpecker

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So you've said the top of the tree rests ON the ground and you've said it is IN the ground. Which is it?
Starting to sound academic cause don't think we'll ever see pix
Just sayin

Aye, probably a little brush with the ape, eh. Starting to seem like that anyway.
 

Normzilla

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The picture I showed was an example, not the actual tree. I don't cut my blow downs that way. I notch the bottoms, then cut the top, but that's me. The stress may be pushing up or down, I feel that I have more control of what the log or root ball is going to do when my release cut is from the top. If the root has most of the stress I cut from the right side, if the top or log has most of the stress I cut from the left side. I could be wrong though, I am not saying you're wrong, just how I have always done it.
Here's my latest example.... this tree - both trees... one was 38" the other was 42", they were twin trunked trees. The 42" incher was 134' and hanging over a valley, and they were blow downs.
You got it handled then, why the discussion? Either way everyday tree for me.
 

livemusic

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I can't believe nobody even drew a smiley face or graffiti on the first link for the drawing collaboration thingy. Disappointed.
 

Gypo Logger

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Chances are that if you work from the crown towards the butt, the tree will try to stand up again. My guess is that when you work towards the stump, it will stand back up again with a 10' butt piece still attached. Its just a matter of finding the center of gravity, then push it up with one hand, root ball and all.
 

Mark71gtx

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I like to err on the side of safety,especially since I normally work alone. The pucker level is elevated when there is nobody to call out to. If I were to attempt this tree, I would see if there was anything sturdy nearby to rig to. I would sling the top of the tree and try to pull it down from one side in an attempt to lay it down on its side. If you have a buddy nearby with a tractor with a loader on the front to push the root ball in that same direction while you were cranking on the come along, it would probably go easier.
 

livemusic

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Here is a photo; not the angle I wanted but a friend took it for me. The difference in my drawing and the photo is that the tree actually aches upward and then downward. The end of the tree is resting on the ground. It's farther from that house than it looks. In this pic, it does not look to be 36", more like 24" to 30" tree, but it's hard to tell perspective with this photo.

I was wondering exactly how to go about cutting it. But if it's too dangerous, I will opt out, lol. I am plenty nimble to jump out of the way but I don't have enough experience to know how to go about it.

I don't think there is any support from above, just open sky above it.

For all I know, this is a piece of cake. Makes me wonder why they didn't finish it, though. I'm still trying to figure out how they got the rest of the tree gone, which would have been above the tip that is resting on the ground. You can't tell here, but the tip of the tree resting on the ground... I think that's a cut resting on the ground.

fallen tree arching down to ground.jpg
 
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