Archer chain

[3browns]

I will be curious to see how many cycles of tensioning and running it will take to get it to settle in and stop stretching

And on a side note; just what causes stretching like this in a new chain?

Just taking out all the built in slop in tolerances?

It’s not the materials actually stretching

At least I hope not

 

[RI Chevy]

Not sure. But I think Stihl and Oregon come pre-stretched to prevent this sort of thing from happening.

 

[bitzer]

What ga. chain are you using? Is the majority of your cutting in hardwood s such as oak or walnut and do you bore cut a lot so the tip gets an extra workout? My friend is Thinking about trying archer out on a 2186 ,, not ported in walnut and oak I haven't told him yet
Thanks

I've used 50, 58, and 63 gauge and I almost never bore cut other then maybe back into a buck or something. All hardwood. Oak, hickory, hard maple, ash beech, elm etc...

 

[bitzer]

The chain usually stretches thru the first tank or so and that's about it. It does stretch a little more then Oregon and I haven't run Stihl in years so I can't say there. Really not enough to ruffle feathers for me. Once you put oil to a chain the components are lubed and kind of loosen up. Same as if you run it with no oil it gets real tight. Some chains claim to be pre-stretched. I can't remember a new chain that I didn't have to tighten a few times brand regardless.

 

[kfd518]

I will be curious to see how many cycles of tensioning and running it will take to get it to settle in and stop stretching

And on a side note; just what causes stretching like this in a new chain?

Just taking out all the built in slop in tolerances?

It’s not the materials actually stretching

At least I hope not

Kind of boils down to tolerances. When they use the punches to make the rivet holes it leaves a ridge around the holes. A worn punch wil leave a larger ridge than a new and clean edged one. It is my understanding that most stretching occurs as this ridge is worn off of the punched holes in the individual pieces. Continued stretch is the result of the rivet holes and rivets themselves wearing.

 

[Junk Meister]

I only made a cut or 2 prior to this video with that chain. This stuff really stretches more than any other chain I have ever used. That chain was snug prior to the cuts.

thanks for the tidbits of info..

 

[RI Chevy]

Your welcome sir.

 

[3browns]

Kind of boils down to tolerances. When they use the punches to make the rivet holes it leaves a ridge around the holes. A worn punch wil leave a larger ridge than a new and clean edged one. It is my understanding that most stretching occurs as this ridge is worn off of the punched holes in the individual pieces. Continued stretch is the result of the rivet holes and rivets themselves wearing.

Makes sense

Thanks

 

[Stihl working Hard]

Just got a couple of loops this week see what it cuts like

View attachment 175666

Hope your not as disappointed as I was with it .Used it cutting our jarrah and the edge goes off very quickly,Iam a firm believer in you only get what you pay for just my 2 cents worth.

 

[Stihl working Hard]

Poor consistency, might be ok in soft wood but not in Australian hardwoods. Many have been bitten once but not again. I have some trial loops and it’s rubbish, standard Chinese chain.

Exactly Ben it’s total rubbish

 

[bitzer]

Exactly Ben it’s total rubbish

How much time do you have on it in different woods to make that call? I've got around 300ft of it under my belt and trust it for production which pays the bills and feeds my family.

 

[Stihl working Hard]

How much time do you have on it in different woods to make that call? I've got around 300ft of it under my belt and trust it for production which pays the bills and feeds my family.

I only cut seasoned jarrah hardwoods not green hardwoods I have done forestry floor work for years professionally up until about 15 years ago and genuine manufacturer branded chains always last longer than aftermarket brands .I have plenty of mates still in the game and it’s unanimous they have tried all the other branded chains including Archer and they all say that Archer chain is a softer metal than Stihl chain and doesn’t hold an edge for to long and stretches to much.

 

[RI Chevy]

You can tell cutters are softer the second you put a file on them. Even softer than LGX.

 

[kfd518]

You can tell cutters are softer the second you put a file on them. Even softer than LGX.

Honestly seems to be in between Stihl and Oregon as far as hardness goes to me.

Trying some .325 full chisel on a 346 right now. So far I’ve liked to 3/8 converted to square.

 

[RI Chevy]

Maybe I got a bad loop???
If it works for you guys, then it's all good. [emoji106]

 

[bitzer]

I only cut seasoned jarrah hardwoods not green hardwoods I have done forestry floor work for years professionally up until about 15 years ago and genuine manufacturer branded chains always last longer than aftermarket brands .I have plenty of mates still in the game and it’s unanimous they have tried all the other branded chains including Archer and they all say that Archer chain is a softer metal than Stihl chain and doesn’t hold an edge for to long and stretches to much.

I got into it one time on another site about the hardness of your woods down there and the guy put a chart of wood densities up. I'll concede that you do have some pretty hard timber down there. The chain works great for me tho. Again I'm curious how much time your buddies really have on it. One loop and done isn't much of a test. I started out by just trying a 25' reel as I was skeptical. I had to change my grind style to accommodate the lower profile teeth and a few other tweeks and quirks. I thought I'll give this another month or so and see where it goes. It takes a little time to see where a chain is happy. I think the factory grind on all chains pretty much sucks. Now I notice little difference between Archer and Oregon expect a good savings. Last year it saved me around $500 in chain.

 

[Mojo700]

I haven't used the chain yet, since I'm still waiting for that Dolmar 6100 from AlfA01 in Greece, but I will say that I dealt with Jerry from ArcherPlus on a couple things, and he is a knowledgeable guy and gave me good service. I took a good close look at the chain, and saw no defects, and just from the fingernail test, I think it's pretty sharp from the factory. I'll report back with more once I get it into some wood.

 

[thedude74]

So far after several tanks I can't tell much if any difference between Oregon lgx and Archer equivalent. My wallet does though! Lol. keep in mind I'm only cutting spruce and the occasional white/paper Birch(soft hardwood). Probably have to order a loop of .325 for the little saw and see how it does. I can see how hardwood cutters could maybe notice a difference. Wonder if Archer bars are any good? Ordered one off fleabay today. 18" husky large mount $17 shipped to Alaska.

 

[Semotony]

I will be curious to see how many cycles of tensioning and running it will take to get it to settle in and stop stretching

And on a side note; just what causes stretching like this in a new chain?

Just taking out all the built in slop in tolerances?

It’s not the materials actually stretching

At least I hope not

Maybe material stretch
4 sharpens on skip square chisel wrapped around 60" cannon. Milling fat Maple. Stretched to the point had to swap 8 pin drive sprocket to adjust cold slop out. Then25-30 □" of cut that break. Cut away both sides of break and made a 50" loop which made it 42□"of cut before breaking with same look. Broke about 30 dls away from reconnection. It's cheap not cost effective IMHO

 

[3browns]

Maybe material stretchView attachment 182302
4 sharpens on skip square chisel wrapped around 60" cannon. Milling fat Maple. Stretched to the point had to swap 8 pin drive sprocket to adjust cold slop out. Then25-30 □" of cut that break. Cut away both sides of break and made a 50" loop which made it 42□"of cut before breaking with same look. Broke about 30 dls away from reconnection. It's cheap not cost effective IMHO

Well I guess if anything is going to push it to the point of breaking then milling maple would probably be it

I have only had one cheap freebie 3/8" LP chain break on me and I did not like it

I will pass on a repeat...