550xp bog off idle

[Reedo]

Everything Spike mentioned above is exactly what I saw and was told when I had mine updated. We had to have the number off the coil and it gave a drop down menu to choose from before it would load the firmware.
I have not responded further on my situation as it looks like I have a leaky decomp and have not had time to make the trip back to pick up the part needed to plug it and run the saw again. And it didn’t cost me anything to have them hook it up for diagnostic check and update so not all dealers will charge for that.

 

[CR888]

Not being able to buy transfer gaskets for the 550xp sucks. I don't see a gozillion saws across my bench to be able to make blanket statements about the quality of Husky. But I have a 555 & 550xp that have approx 100-150hrs on each & they been great saws. I mainly use Stihl, Dolmar, Solo & Husky saws but the 5 series saws were ahead of anything on the market when they came out 7/8 years ago and are still relevant today. I'd like to see a thread that educates users on how to best manage AT or MT systems. Spike mentioned running g a tank dry will cause a code violation.....I never new that & I kinda think sometimes the way users run these saws like idling for long periods etc can be the cause of AT/MT systems altering the way a saw behaves. Knowing the inns & outs of this stuff could help us all best use these saws.

 

[Spike60]

I edited it to reflect my answer to your question: Shop rate at the place I deal with is $70 per hour. Evidently that price means anything up to an hour and they don't break it down into minute intervals.

Wow, that's ruthless. I know most shops have a minimum charge for even the simplest jobs. But to have a one hour minimum is seriously banging the customer. Lot of saws are on and off the bench in 15-20 minutes. We had a guy around here who had a $25 "bench fee". Charged $25 just to put the saw on the bench, then began the repair.

It's like all the poor saps who buy PSL's at these new sports stadiums and then get the honor to buy expensive tickets to the events. And those tickets usually contain a "facility fee" too. There's no end to this form of larceny.

 

[Mastermind]

Randy, you ought to lock this thread as a way to stop the flow of misinformation.

Where did this $70 number come from? That shop must have a labor rate of $420 per hour, cause the update process only takes about 10 minutes at most.

Coils do NOT have to be kept with the carb. You load firmware into the carb based on which coil it has. The CST will not load firmware into anything unless you select a coil from the drop down window. If you mix and match you must do an update so the carb and coil are properly linked. Only exception to this rule are the earliest 555/562's with the EL44 carbs.

Some guy came in yesterday with a 550, and I have a feeling he's been reading this thread! He says, "I was reading online", (usually a bad start to any conversation), and he went in and screwed around with his bleed screw and the saw is all out of wack. Normally I do an update right there while the customer waits, but I made him leave the saw. If an update solves his problem then he gets out cheap, but if not he's up for a new AT12, cause I'm not gong to waste my time, or his money figuring out what he did.


AT doesn't "go lean", the default is to fail rich. Which is why a saw can live for a while with an air leak. I've seen this feature save some saws, but the downside is that it can hide an air leak that will eventually fry the saw. Ya can't work on these things without a mighty-vac. Block off plates are cheap. Saws with air leaks will have a failure code or 2. Can be deceiving as IMO running the saw dry can also generate code 13 or 17, then you do the vac test and it's tight as a drum.

Decos can pass the test on the bench, but then can show a slight leak when running. (spray a little soapy water on it while running). 10PSI from the mighty-vac vs 150+ while running. I don't know that this really means much. Just that there's a lot of pieces to these puzzles and they should all be looked at before drawing conclusions. But any deco leak on the mighty vac, and it's got to go.

I need breakfast.............

This post full of excellent information is why I can't lock this thread Bob.

Thank you.

 

[PA Dan]

Hey Bob do you remember me calling you back in the spring totally frustrated with my local Husky dealers? I had a very similar experience here in Pittsburgh. Well in Huskys defense we have no good dealers in this area. The ones that actually knew what I was asking for quoted me $50 for the update. Another one said to bring the whole saw in. When I told them its disabled. They said we would have to put the saw back together before we can check the carb. That's when I gave up and called you! Thanks again!

 

[Benjo]

Randy, you ought to lock this thread as a way to stop the flow of misinformation.

Some guy came in yesterday with a 550, and I have a feeling he's been reading this thread! He says, "I was reading online", (usually a bad start to any conversation), and he went in and screwed around with his bleed screw and the saw is all out of wack. Normally I do an update right there while the customer waits, but I made him leave the saw. If an update solves his problem then he gets out cheap, but if not he's up for a new AT12, cause I'm not gong to waste my time, or his money figuring out what he did.

I need breakfast.............

I'm "some guy", but I'd not yet read this particular post...until now .

Unfortunately this saw never acted right from new (despite being a 2017 model with the at-12). I should've given up earlier and brought it in, but I'm 3 hours away and just haven't had time with a new job and toddler (nor found a super-helpful dealer near home). I'll admit I enjoy visiting Shokan though, Bob's fun to talk to and is everything you'd want in a (Husky) saw shop (even if he does complain about you online).

Just to clarify, I did see improvement in the bog/stall issue with adjustment, it started at 1-2/3 turn out and I went in both directions by 1/4 turn to find the best performance, but at its best (about 1 turn out) it still shows symptoms. If it takes a new carb to be perfect, I'm fine with that, even if it costs me–I'm sure I technically voided warranty when I turned the screw. Probably when I did a pressure/vac test too. I love the 545/550 chassis, and I've barely used this saw in the 9 months since I bought it due to its issue.

Of the few dozen other AT saws I've worked on for myself and others, the only issue I've seen that was AT-related was a 562 that had the 46, you sold me a 48 and it runs so well I kept it. Probably gets the most use of all my saws.

 

[Mastermind]

I'm "some guy", but I'd not yet read this particular post...until now .

Unfortunately this saw never acted right from new (despite being a 2017 model with the at-12). I should've given up earlier and brought it in, but I'm 3 hours away and just haven't had time with a new job and toddler (nor found a super-helpful dealer near home). I'll admit I enjoy visiting Shokan though, Bob's fun to talk to and is everything you'd want in a (Husky) saw shop (even if he does complain about you online).

Just to clarify, I did see improvement in the bog/stall issue with adjustment, it started at 1-2/3 turn out and I went in both directions by 1/4 turn to find the best performance, but at its best (about 1 turn out) it still shows symptoms. If it takes a new carb to be perfect, I'm fine with that, even if it costs me–I'm sure I technically voided warranty when I turned the screw. Probably when I did a pressure/vac test too. I love the 545/550 chassis, and I've barely used this saw in the 9 months since I bought it due to its issue.

Of the few dozen other AT saws I've worked on for myself and others, the only issue I've seen that was AT-related was a 562 that had the 46, you sold me a 48 and it runs so well I kept it. Probably gets the most use of all my saws.

Congrats Benjamin, you earned a custom user title.

 

[Benjo]

I'm honored, thanks!

 

[Spike60]

I'm "some guy", but I'd not yet read this particular post...until now .

Unfortunately this saw never acted right from new (despite being a 2017 model with the at-12). I should've given up earlier and brought it in, but I'm 3 hours away and just haven't had time with a new job and toddler (nor found a super-helpful dealer near home). I'll admit I enjoy visiting Shokan though, Bob's fun to talk to and is everything you'd want in a (Husky) saw shop (even if he does complain about you online).

Just to clarify, I did see improvement in the bog/stall issue with adjustment, it started at 1-2/3 turn out and I went in both directions by 1/4 turn to find the best performance, but at its best (about 1 turn out) it still shows symptoms. If it takes a new carb to be perfect, I'm fine with that, even if it costs me–I'm sure I technically voided warranty when I turned the screw. Probably when I did a pressure/vac test too. I love the 545/550 chassis, and I've barely used this saw in the 9 months since I bought it due to its issue.

Of the few dozen other AT saws I've worked on for myself and others, the only issue I've seen that was AT-related was a 562 that had the 46, you sold me a 48 and it runs so well I kept it. Probably gets the most use of all my saws.

See, I knew these guys were guilty! LOL

Did your saw today and seems like it's running fine, so you can grab it next time you're over this way. It did take a firmware update. There were no error codes. I didn't need to go in and mess with that internal adjustment.

Fuel settings were quite a ways off, especially the lo setting which was 129. Highest I've ever seen; factory setting is 90. What else I noticed was a really high idle time of 87%, vs only 6% full throttle. That much idle time will play havoc with the fuel settings. I didn't let it idle for more than 20 seconds, and that was when I went to get the tach to check the idle. (2760) No sign of a bog on that short idle time.

I'm never a hard ass on warranty stuff, heck I monkey with the saws myself. My gripe was having to go in and undo what somebody else has done. If I had to go in and out of that carb a couple times to find the sweet spot on that adjustment at $80 an hour it can get expensive and still never be quite right. But I understand a guy wanting to do it himself because the AT12 is a $134 carb!

I'll start it up again in the morning and see what she sounds like, but I think it's good to go. .

And it's not $70.

 

[Benjo]

See, I knew these guys were guilty! LOL

Did your saw today and seems like it's running fine, so you can grab it next time you're over this way. It did take a firmware update. There were no error codes. I didn't need to go in and mess with that internal adjustment.

Fuel settings were quite a ways off, especially the lo setting which was 129. Highest I've ever seen; factory setting is 90. What else I noticed was a really high idle time of 87%, vs only 6% full throttle. That much idle time will play havoc with the fuel settings. I didn't let it idle for more than 20 seconds, and that was when I went to get the tach to check the idle. (2760) No sign of a bog on that short idle time.

I'm never a hard ass on warranty stuff, heck I monkey with the saws myself. My gripe was having to go in and undo what somebody else has done. If I had to go in and out of that carb a couple times to find the sweet spot on that adjustment at $80 an hour it can get expensive and still never be quite right. But I understand a guy wanting to do it himself because the AT12 is a $134 carb!

I'll start it up again in the morning and see what she sounds like, but I think it's good to go. .

And it's not $70.

Well that's good news, thanks as always!

Supposedly I have Friday off–we'll see if the boss holds that deal, but in any case I'll be out before too long.

 

[Benjo]

Thinned some beech this weekend, saw ran very well. Same property I ran it on when it was almost new, much more predictable this time–didn't stall once.

Another highlight of visiting Bob's shop–if you're lucky, he might let you touch it:

 

[Reedo]

I got the call yesterday that the plug I ordered to replace the leaking decomp button is in. Wondering what if anything should be used as a sealant when installing the plug? Just curious what others use or if it’s necessary to use anything.

 

[Benjo]

No, they have a little washer on them already. Just clean off the mating surface a bit and tighten her down.

 

[Reedo]

Thanks Benjo!

 

[Reedo]

I replaced the decomp valve that was leaking and had a ton of build up around it today hoping that might have an affect on the bog I have been experiencing.
I cut for about a half hour after installing the plug. After the update it had been running a lot better over 4 tanks. Well today it was running like it was before the update so it sounds like my next step is to replace the carb unless anyone has any other ideas. Saw is a 2015 AT-7 carb.

 

[andyshine77]

I replaced the decomp valve that was leaking and had a ton of build up around it today hoping that might have an affect on the bog I have been experiencing.
I cut for about a half hour after installing the plug. After the update it had been running a lot better over 4 tanks. Well today it was running like it was before the update so it sounds like my next step is to replace the carb unless anyone has any other ideas. Saw is a 2015 AT-7 carb.

Don't remember if the saw has been air leak tested or not, if not you want to do that. After that yeah a new carb is the way to go. Make sure it gets programming, it's a pretty easy install, comes with a new fuel line too. Edit Lol forgot I already posted embedded this video before, oh well.[emoji57]

 

[Reedo]

I have not had it air leak tested yet but that’s a great idea.

 

[Huntaholic]

After reading all the posts on here and getting all the different info posted therein about coils staying with carbs, Dealer fees for diagnostics, and all the other stuff Ive read and heard about them, I was almost determined NOT to like them. As some may know, I ran across a truckload of saws a while back and there ended up being 4 562xps in the pile. All of them needed work but I was determined to get one running and see for myself if they are as good as some people say they are. First of all they are a PAIN to work on compared to the older series saws. That part of my opinion hasn't changed. What has changed is my opinion that theres no way these little saws will cut like some people say they will. I WAS WRONG! Ive had it ready to run for a week now but Ive been waiting on an air filter and clutch cover to come in. Today I got the filter and decided to jerry rig a bar on it and see what it will do. Them little fellers will CUT! 20" bar and a new chain buried in a poplar block and she SCREAMS! I don't typically run a new built saw that hard at first but I needed to run it pretty hard to let it reset itself so that's what I did! To coin a phrase from TV, this saw will CUT!

 

[Reedo]

After running this saw more the bog had returned and seemed to get worse ever so slowly. On my last outing it started dying between cuts when moving tree to tree.
I ended up taking it into the dealer and they were able to replicate the bog but it didn’t die on them in the short time they ran it.
A compression test reveals 100psi so they recommend replacing the ring and gaskets. The piston looks good on the exhaust side so as of right now that’s what they ordered for parts. They said they have seen stuck rings on a number of these and it has always fixed the problem. Hopefully that will solve my issue.

 

[huskyboy]

After running this saw more the bog had returned and seemed to get worse ever so slowly. On my last outing it started dying between cuts when moving tree to tree.
I ended up taking it into the dealer and they were able to replicate the bog but it didn’t die on them in the short time they ran it.
A compression test reveals 100psi so they recommend replacing the ring and gaskets. The piston looks good on the exhaust side so as of right now that’s what they ordered for parts. They said they have seen stuck rings on a number of these and it has always fixed the problem. Hopefully that will solve my issue.

After you get the compression issue sorted out I would start with a carb kit and reset of the carb. Some dealers you can mail the carb to, give them the # of the ignition coil and they will reset/update it for you. Once you eliminate those possible issues, play around with the air bleed adjustment on the air filter side face of the carb until it runs right. Its under a brass plug, use a pick to pop it out. Try 1/4 turn counter clockwise. http://opeforum.com/threads/husqvarna-550xp-carb-fix.1524/