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- Dec 29, 2015
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It’s definitely not an easy build especially when you put in the attention to detail that @drf256 does. He’s helped me out in the past with multiple saws including the 361 I built for you.Very challenging build Doc. Your pictorials made it look easy. Very professional approach to this thread. I'm sure @Canadian farm boy is up north smiling away right now LOL. Your workmanship shows very well Doc. Thanks again!!
Thank you for your kind words Mike.It’s definitely not an easy build especially when you put in the attention to detail that @drf256 does. He’s helped me out in the past with multiple saws including the 361 I built for you.
He’s a good friend and an excellent craftsman.
This saws owner will truly have a saw that they’ll look forward to using and want to show off.
its a good thing you are a genious....Nope. I tried many.
It’s gotta be custom, and the extra Arctic wiring adds to the fun.
If it’s too long, the operator presence lever won’t let it go back to idle. Too short and the throttle won’t open Fully.
Trully the bane of the build.
I am not. These builds are pretty much backlogged promises. Also some prior customers, but that’s where it ends.Not sure if it’s just the new forum, but I see you have an sig. So you are once again taking port work?
One could, but there are a host of problems.Dumb question, but in the muffler, can the gains be had by drilling out a larger hole(s) in the baffle from the exhaust flange side? Like say knocking a 3/4” hole in the end of the “box” and maybe a few more 1/2” holes around the sides?
That would be nice. I know the ones that come in the FT parts kit have that stupid baffle inside.Years ago there was an AM muffler that was just an empty can, that I bought off Amazon. I don't know who made it or if they even make it anymore but it was definitely an easy upgrade.
Great points, thanks for the input.One could, but there are a host of problems.
The muffler inlet is about 4mm smaller than the heat shield/gasket/exhaust port (in my case at least) for the entire perimeter. So around 8mm narrower and shorter. The baffle is right up against it, so it is difficult/Impossible to open the inlet with the baffle there.
In the JMS redo that led me using the numbers in this build, he knocked the entire deflector down and left it in the can. It eventually came loose and vibrated/clanked in the can. I cut the muffler apart and took it out. In retrospect, it might be easier to bandsaw the muffler apart and braze it back together vs the whole uncrimping/recrimping process.
Just drilling holes creates another big issue, metal dust stuck in the muffler. You can rinse and clean as much as possible, but you always run the risk of some being left in the can. That can find its way into the business end of the saw which is never good.
I used stainless tig wire to make the linkage. Sq is .0175
View attachment 368753View attachment 368754
Does it work? Do you have bent the end? Plug and play?
Does it work? Do you have bent the end? Plug and play?
I had one on my bench because an older builder told me it would work. He also told me that an 1122 impulse was the way to go. The 1122 impulse was too short for certain and I couldn’t get the 1128 rod to work.
It seems like the PTO side of the trigger won’t retain the shaft Steve. The saw is boxed up at this point. I’ll pull saw and install if this works without issue.
Thank you.
I had to bend the section between the choke lever and the rear handle to shorten the length but that’s the only place