361 Arctic Build (the first and last)

[drf256]

Post run check.

 

[timg]

Very challenging build Doc. Your pictorials made it look easy. Very professional approach to this thread. I'm sure @Canadian farm boy is up north smiling away right now LOL. Your workmanship shows very well Doc. Thanks again!!

 

[Canadian farm boy]

Very challenging build Doc. Your pictorials made it look easy. Very professional approach to this thread. I'm sure @Canadian farm boy is up north smiling away right now LOL. Your workmanship shows very well Doc. Thanks again!!

It’s definitely not an easy build especially when you put in the attention to detail that @drf256 does. He’s helped me out in the past with multiple saws including the 361 I built for you.
He’s a good friend and an excellent craftsman.
This saws owner will truly have a saw that they’ll look forward to using and want to show off.

 

[drf256]

It’s definitely not an easy build especially when you put in the attention to detail that @drf256 does. He’s helped me out in the past with multiple saws including the 361 I built for you.
He’s a good friend and an excellent craftsman.
This saws owner will truly have a saw that they’ll look forward to using and want to show off.

Thank you for your kind words Mike.

 

[pbillyi69]

Nope. I tried many.

It’s gotta be custom, and the extra Arctic wiring adds to the fun.

If it’s too long, the operator presence lever won’t let it go back to idle. Too short and the throttle won’t open Fully.

Trully the bane of the build.

its a good thing you are a genious....

 

[Loony661]

Dumb question, but in the muffler, can the gains be had by drilling out a larger hole(s) in the baffle from the exhaust flange side? Like say knocking a 3/4” hole in the end of the “box” and maybe a few more 1/2” holes around the sides?

 

[Stevetheboatguy]

Very nice!

Too bad radio shack went the way of the dodo. The different antennas they had made great stock for linkages and throttle rods. Hard to come by that variety of quality material anymore. S.S tig wire is about the most common thing make due with now.

Top notch Doc.


Steven

 

[mrxlh]

Not sure if it’s just the new forum, but I see you have a sig. So you are once again taking port work?

 

[Powerstroke Cowboy]

Very nice build Doc. I have been wanting to do some port work on a 361. You make it look and sound easy. My Dad and brother both have 361. They like em. But there stock.

 

[drf256]

Not sure if it’s just the new forum, but I see you have an sig. So you are once again taking port work?

I am not. These builds are pretty much backlogged promises. Also some prior customers, but that’s where it ends.

 

[drf256]

Dumb question, but in the muffler, can the gains be had by drilling out a larger hole(s) in the baffle from the exhaust flange side? Like say knocking a 3/4” hole in the end of the “box” and maybe a few more 1/2” holes around the sides?

One could, but there are a host of problems.

The muffler inlet is about 4mm smaller than the heat shield/gasket/exhaust port (in my case at least) for the entire perimeter. So around 8mm narrower and shorter. The baffle is right up against it, so it is difficult/Impossible to open the inlet with the baffle there.

In the JMS redo that led me using the numbers in this build, he knocked the entire deflector down and left it in the can. It eventually came loose and vibrated/clanked in the can. I cut the muffler apart and took it out. In retrospect, it might be easier to bandsaw the muffler apart and braze it back together vs the whole uncrimping/recrimping process.

Just drilling holes creates another big issue, metal dust stuck in the muffler. You can rinse and clean as much as possible, but you always run the risk of some being left in the can. That can find its way into the business end of the saw which is never good.

 

[Maintenance Chief]

Years ago there was an AM muffler that was just an empty can, that I bought off Amazon. I don't know who made it or if they even make it anymore but it was definitely an easy upgrade.

 

[farminkarman]

Years ago there was an AM muffler that was just an empty can, that I bought off Amazon. I don't know who made it or if they even make it anymore but it was definitely an easy upgrade.

That would be nice. I know the ones that come in the FT parts kit have that stupid baffle inside.

 

[Loony661]

One could, but there are a host of problems.

The muffler inlet is about 4mm smaller than the heat shield/gasket/exhaust port (in my case at least) for the entire perimeter. So around 8mm narrower and shorter. The baffle is right up against it, so it is difficult/Impossible to open the inlet with the baffle there.

In the JMS redo that led me using the numbers in this build, he knocked the entire deflector down and left it in the can. It eventually came loose and vibrated/clanked in the can. I cut the muffler apart and took it out. In retrospect, it might be easier to bandsaw the muffler apart and braze it back together vs the whole uncrimping/recrimping process.

Just drilling holes creates another big issue, metal dust stuck in the muffler. You can rinse and clean as much as possible, but you always run the risk of some being left in the can. That can find its way into the business end of the saw which is never good.

Great points, thanks for the input.

 

[Stump Shot]

I used stainless tig wire to make the linkage. Sq is .0175


View attachment 368753View attachment 368754

 

[drf256]

View attachment 369074

Does it work? Do you have bent the end? Plug and play?

I had one on my bench because an older builder told me it would work. He also told me that an 1122 impulse was the way to go. The 1122 impulse was too short for certain and I couldn’t get the 1128 rod to work.

It seems like the PTO side of the trigger won’t retain the shaft Steve. The saw is boxed up at this point. I’ll pull saw and install if this works without issue.

Thank you.

 

[Stump Shot]

Does it work? Do you have bent the end? Plug and play?

I had one on my bench because an older builder told me it would work. He also told me that an 1122 impulse was the way to go. The 1122 impulse was too short for certain and I couldn’t get the 1128 rod to work.

It seems like the PTO side of the trigger won’t retain the shaft Steve. The saw is boxed up at this point. I’ll pull saw and install if this works without issue.

Thank you.

Well... as you can see I haven't put that in yet. I ended up making the last 361 I did a work saw with standard carb.
I'm not the originator here either, this idea came to me via @dall as it is what he put on his saw when he converted to the 440/460 carburetor. I bet he will elaborate for you to get a good idea, if not I have the stuff here I can mock one up and let you know.

 

[dall]

A 290/310 carb linkage is what I used
It’s just a matter of fine tuning it

 

[dall]

I had to bend the section between the choke lever and the rear handle to shorten the length but that’s the only place

 

[Stump Shot]

I had to bend the section between the choke lever and the rear handle to shorten the length but that’s the only place

Thanks dally.