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2017 MMWS GTG Box Saw Build Off Rules

X 66 stang347 X

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I've been doing a little research on it. What size would be most efficient is what I'm hunting. The carb could be mounted in a blow through box I believe. Maybe a 10-20mm turbo? Also it needs a oil tank,pump,and return line which I've found. Something to mess with.
 
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twinstaged

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I've been doing a little research on it. What size would be most efficient is what I'm hunting. The carb could be mounted in a blow through box I believe. Maybe a 10-20mm turbo? Also it needs a oil tank,pump,and return line which I've found. Something to mess with.
I do turbo stuff for a living if you need a hand with anything or just to brain pick.
 

X 66 stang347 X

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It may not work. If i get parts I'll find something to use them on one day.
 

twinstaged

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It may not work. If i get parts I'll find something to use them on one day.
On something like a race saw I could build a dry center section so you wouldn't have the oiling problem... would have to check on bearings since a turbo this size would spin 200k rpm. I'd probably drop the diaphragm carb for something else just to keep things easier to tune. Then if it was all together it would take a little getting used to staying on top of the turbo.
 

twinstaged

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How bout those crappy electric turbos? Do they do anything?
Not really. I have seen some people play with high power brushless stuff spinning a compressor wheel for a glory pull on the dyno with a 4 stroke scooter. That might be fun to mess around with. It takes some pretty good shaft hp to spin a compressor wheel though.
 

twinstaged

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If I was going to compete in class 3 I would just stud and bar the cylinder down and build the toughest rod and crank I could and spray nitrous to the moon. After seeing the size of the wood though that pretty much eliminated the fun in that plan.... maybe it would hold lol. I would have to pressurize my nitrous bottle with nitrogen to maintain bottle pressure.
 

wcorey

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So I got a little curious about the timing on my farmertec cyl, the more I thought about it, it could work. Scewy sounding #'s maybe not a f'k up, may just be that way by intentional design.
Need to know more, decided to just put it all together with what came in the box, everything. For now...

I did gut the muffler and open up the stock hole a bit.
Very minor cleanup on the ports, set the carb to a turn out on each and then a little squirt of fuel.
Caught me off guard and yanked the starter handle out of my hand on the first good tug. Comp feels healthy even with the gasket.
A couple more pulls and it fired, a couple more squirts/pulls/snorts after that and it was running on its own.

Didn't have time to put it in wood but did at least fire it up a few more times for a piss rev or two. Ran fine as it was other than an idle speed adjust.

Sounded pretty sporty, as much as I can tell with no bar/chain, hopefully will have time to make a few cuts in the morning...
 

paragonbuilder

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So I got a little curious about the timing on my farmertec cyl, the more I thought about it, it could work. Scewy sounding #'s maybe not a f'k up, may just be that way by intentional design.
Need to know more, decided to just put it all together with what came in the box, everything. For now...

I did gut the muffler and open up the stock hole a bit.
Very minor cleanup on the ports, set the carb to a turn out on each and then a little squirt of fuel.
Caught me off guard and yanked the starter handle out of my hand on the first good tug. Comp feels healthy even with the gasket.
A couple more pulls and it fired, a couple more squirts/pulls/snorts after that and it was running on its own.

Didn't have time to put it in wood but did at least fire it up a few more times for a piss rev or two. Ran fine as it was other than an idle speed adjust.

Sounded pretty sporty, as much as I can tell with no bar/chain, hopefully will have time to make a few cuts in the morning...

I like how you are thinking Bill! If we keep doing the same thing, what will we learn? Maybe it's a flop? But maybe you learn something and take class 3!!! [emoji41]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

T.Roller

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If I was going to compete in class 3 I would just stud and bar the cylinder down and build the toughest rod and crank I could and spray nitrous to the moon. After seeing the size of the wood though that pretty much eliminated the fun in that plan.... maybe it would hold lol. I would have to pressurize my nitrous bottle with nitrogen to maintain bottle pressure.
Who is this guy? I like him lol
 

MustangMike

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I did not even get my kit yet, but I think (based on other's threads) the rules s/b amended a bit.

I agree that machining the base & or squish band goes in class 2, but if you just sand it to make the squish work, with or w/o a gasket, I think that should be allowed in class one, especially if your port work is just to improve the ports and not to change their timing.

Anyone else have thoughts on this???
 
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