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Shanesaw80

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He bore cut then did a stepped bore cut above the first bore cut. Then clipped it from back and get the heck outta town. Keeps the tree from breaking out too soon best I can explain it. This is what I did.

Cool. I was just wondering if he clipped it above his bore cut in the back or below as your pic looks like you clipped it above. I was just going to say that clipping it above runs the risk of cutting slightly past your bore cut and your bar getting stuck in a tree that’s coming down fast. Much safer to go below and let it break away from your bar.

Been falling trees for a living logging since I finished high school 21 years ago and been teaching felling courses for the past 12 so I was just trying to give a helpful tip if what I was seeing was correct but again I wasn’t sure which is why I asked. Maybe you just don’t need any tips.
 

Skeans1

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That tree would have chaired if one was to not bore cut it period. I’m open to listening to other styles though out of interest.

A coos style cut is damn near impossible to chair out a tree and possibly a lot safer.
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Skeans1

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I like that, had not seen it before, but I like it! I'm not a fan of bore cutting, I think it shortens bar life.

Bars are cheap your hands and arms aren’t think of all the vibrations you’re putting into yourself as well as the anti vibration equipment of the powerhead.


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huskyboy

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There is GOL but the techniques are different coast to coast. Different terrain and timber. Bore cutting is where it’s at mostly for logging here it seems. And it works well. Be interesting to try other techniques to see if they still worked well here though.
 

Rob Stafari

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Skip to the 3 minute mark to see what can happen when you cut above your bore cut to release the trigger. Very good tip @Shanesaw80 for those that don't want their saw to turn into the rare and elusive autonomous flying model.

Edit: Video by Mr. Snelling. I tried to tag him but can't for some reason. Thanks for posting that video, I learned something valuable when I watched that years ago.
 

Rob Stafari

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You got that right Mike. This trigger released itself as I was cutting back to it. I knew the back side was rotten/full of ants and wasn't planning on even trying to set a trigger, just cut out the back. Tree was roped high and down to a 5 to 1 pulley system w/ progress capture with a good amount of pre tension. Had a back lean towards two big barns, a schoolbus, and my van. A fairly narrow window on the pull side to fall through and not do too much collateral damage on the pull side.

IMG_6627.JPG IMG_6618.JPG
 

RI Chevy

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I think I read on here that if you cut on an upward angle on the trigger it may prevent that from happening. But still a nice job on that tree. [emoji106]
 

Skeans1

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Getting #5 the right thickness if you have some rotted sap wood must be a little tricky. I kinda like that triangle technique!

There’s another technique I didn’t post that’s the opposite of the GOL bore cut every cut known to man, it’s leave a T in the center of the back cut for holding wood then cut it up last.


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Shanesaw80

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There’s another technique I didn’t post that’s the opposite of the GOL bore cut every cut known to man, it’s leave a T in the center of the back cut for holding wood then cut it up last.


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Both great techniques. This video shows both techniques, we use it as a visual aid with new guys.

 

huskyboy

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That’s GOL or Swedish stump dance get something leaning heavily you’re likely to end up in the road of a chair with having to walk around the stump so much.


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Not really sir if you do it right. You stand to side and clip the release.
 

huskyboy

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I have a question for you two, have you ever logged in north eastern america? Serious question. I haven’t logged out west so I wouldn’t be the person to ask for advice on techniques for out there... different timber and terrain period.
 
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