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Let's talk race chain

Wilhelm

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Chain looks good, but the chassis work isn’t really worth it with the safety chain.
The chain is just what I have after wearing a regular work chain down.
Worn this far the loops become fun to run and it'd be a shame to rock them since there isn't very much tooth meat left.
I did all the grinding yesterday (Saturday) sitting in the sun, detoxing from a stressful week with 11 hour shifts at work.
I will never consider this chain to be a race chain, I am just having some fun with it.
This is the first chain that I have ever done this much grinding to, I initially only wanted to grind down the rivets and clean the gullets - I kinda couldn't stop grinding once I started.
I'll upload two video's to YouTube today (Sunday), the loop cuts fairly well IMHO.

Agree'd. I'd not waste my time on skip either.
If You are referring to me, my loop is not skip.
Also, whatever one uses as a base and whatever one does to that loop is not a waste of time if it is fun to do.
For example, I was outside in the fresh air sitting with my back to the sun all day, ran my saws and made some cookies instead of sitting in the house in front of my PC all cooked up doing nothing.

In overall I sharpened 4 loops and ran them on 3 saws while listening to selected music - it was the best day I had in the last two-three weeks.
 

~WBF

Thecallofthewildanswered1989-2017[PAID IN FULL!]
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I know a guy that about won a chain build off with full skip
It's weird actually because it's always very close in small dia in softwood.
It's nowhere close to what the math should be. Chain is clever stuff. There is so much about it that still keeps me guessing. Mysterious I say. I had two ported 372's.
Both built by the same guy. Both had 'new chain and I would set raker and file in the morning. Tuned the same. Blocking and burning beetle wood. I would let my block thrower run one saw with skip tooth chain. The full comp could just edge it out up to 20" and at 22" the skip started to edge out the full comp. I kept skip on his saw all winter and things stayed consistent for about 10 weeks of work.
 
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Deets066

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It's weird actually because it's always very close in small dia in softwood.
It's nowhere close to what the math should be. Chain is clever stuff. There is so much about it that still keeps me guessing. Mysterious I say. I had two ported 372's.
Both built by the same guy. Both had 'new chain and I would set raker and file in the morning. Tuned the same. Blocking and burning beetle wood. I would let my block thrower run one saw with skip tooth chain. The full comp could just edge it out up to 20" and at 22" the skip started to edge out the full comp. I kept skip on his saw all winter and things stayed consistent for about 10 weeks of work.
I like skip on 30” and up. Just less to file
 

~WBF

Thecallofthewildanswered1989-2017[PAID IN FULL!]
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I'm giving you some extra style points for stacking the cookies even though you cut out :campeon:.
How
observant! Look up young man. How is it going Mr B?

Kind of a I meant to do that sort of a thing, well now you've set a standard for yourself.
I'll call you cookie stacker going forward lol.
"Cookie stacker" and "Husky chucker" good handles.

I like skip on 30” and up. Just less to file
Easier on the saw too. Most I ran was a 28" lite bar. Lots of snow so it was just daily filing or chasing teeth on chain throws. No I lied. 72" with a tail handle bundle cutting with a ported 3120. Probably a few bottom ends to a chain. Sounds about right. No kidding.
They were the builders saws and contract.
Those were mostly 4'× 4' bundles of 1" x 2" x 8.' No more that 4.5 ft in a cut at times but they were dry and grabby.
so that's why the full comp.
Also a lot of ceder beam piles too.
It would come off the train and get bucked and back on to go to the US.
The lay out crew would mark the middles and put dunage underneath but if they didn't set it right then the buck wouldn't open and it would jam the saw. That bends cranks too. I guess he went to his 090 and never had a problem again. I used it once and my eyeballs are still bouncing. Never again I told him.

Good cookie stacker you are.
 
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concretegrazer

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Serious question:

So when the leading edge is filed down to centre of it's axis ( rivet centre ) Being the cutter can no longer tip up into the wood any further as the raker lifts (known as attack mode)....

Is this the fastest for a race chain due to the much different dynamics of the cut?
I think a lot less resistance as in theory its tipping out of the wood at initial contact while moving forward very fast.

Is the rivet or the heal the hinge center?
 

~WBF

Thecallofthewildanswered1989-2017[PAID IN FULL!]
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Is the rivet or the heal the hinge center?

That would be the back rivet centre I refer to and the leading edge (Zero 'lift' position)
So its a 'see saw' (teeter totter) effect.
In 'attack mode' the teeter totter is always 'back heavy' so if it's behind the rivet centre then when the raker comes 'up'the tooth dips 'down' (out of the wood in theory) but think of forward speed at the same time. There is very little contact with the raker and the wood . If its a full tooth then the raker will slam hard up into the wood on contact.
In the case of regular cutting you need a lot off the raker to match what a new chain would be at say 25 or 30 thou.
I think Carlton said around 60 thou.
I believe you can get 47 thou with the carlton file o plate progressive gauge and 42 with the Oregon/Husqvarna gauge on the Stihl 3/8. With a saddle raker gauge you can only get about 45 ° of what it needs to be. Basically they just remain at .025"
 
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Wolverine

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If You are referring to me, my loop is not skip.
For example, I was outside in the fresh air sitting with my back to the sun all day, ran my saws and made some cookies instead of sitting in the house in front of my PC all cooked up doing nothing.

In overall I sharpened 4 loops and ran them on 3 saws while listening to selected music - it was the best day I had in the last two-three weeks.
I wasn’t and I agree whole heartedly. I usually put a good tune on the radio and find tranquility while doing it.
If one were attempting to make a full blown race loop, I’d (just my measly .02 here fellers, take it for what it’s worth) not tell anyone to start on a loop of skip chain for a 16-18” bar.
Remember, 2nd place is the first looser. :nusenuse:
 

Wilhelm

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I wasn’t and I agree whole heartedly. I usually put a good tune on the radio and find tranquility while doing it.
If one were attempting to make a full blown race loop, I’d (just my measly .02 here fellers, take it for what it’s worth) not tell anyone to start on a loop of skip chain for a 16-18” bar.
Remember, 2nd place is the first looser. :nusenuse:
No worries about second place, I have no one to race against. ;)

I just had some fun time grinding on that loop. :)

First of two clips, Dolmar PS-550 100% factory stock with play chain in beech

 
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Wilhelm

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Second clip, exact same saw, fuel, tune, chain - just the log changed.

Dolmar PS-550 with play chain in 16" turkey oak log


No pressure executed on front handle as I knew it would just pull down rpm's and make the cut slower.
Also a decent self feeding example.
 
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