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Picking a race chain with video

Definitive Dave

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There are of course plenty of ways to pick a chain for racing at a GTG or a sanctioned event with prize money. Many guys just read a lot online and then make the best chain they think they can :)
The internet is dumb, it doesn't know anything about your saw, bar, sprocket, cutting style or the wood you will be racing in. Most of the advice for square filing is either just applicable to work chains or is directly contradicted somewhere else on the internet :)
There are a few Good ways to pick a chain for racing.
1. having a great chain builder who is familiar with your equipment and cutting style build you a chain is a great option that may not be available to everyone.
2. making a pair of duplicate chains and make small adjustments to them one at a time so that you can go back to the better chain when you go to far is a time consuming but viable option if you are comfortable with all the facets of race chain building.
3. chain testing and choosing from amongst a selection of race chains is a great option but you absolutely need to video and time all the chains to know what is really fastest....

Cole came over yesterday to run saws and specifically to get a race chain for two of his saws he plans to run at GTGs soon. We started with his ECSaws built Dolmar 6400 converted to a 7900 with a gutted muffler and the higher limit coil.

We started with a good middle of the road slightly aggressive workchain done on the grinder. I cut a 2.63 and 2.73, Cole cut a 2.53 and 2.54 with a 2.84 upcut between them.

We then moved on to a John Reilly chain that I have had for awhile, some of the teeth are pretty uneven and I haven't run it much. I cut a 2.7, 2.46 and 2.47. Cole cut a 2.2, 2.23 and 2.23 which ended up being great times for a 5 cube in 10"x10" Poplar, but.....even though e knew it was faster than the prior ground chain we went ahead and tested another chain next.

I decided to run an actual race chain built specifically for my 084, it's not the one I run now but would give us a great idea of the limits of the saw. I cut a 2.53 and a 2.63 and Cole did a 2.47 and 2.4, so we turned back to the rack of chains for something a tad less aggressive :)

We opted to run the Play Chain that Cole had built and that we had run earlier in the day on both the MS462 and my stock 372xp. I cut a 3.07 and a 3.34 while Cole cut a pair of 2.53s. Really respectable numbers considering the competition.

The last chain we tried is a Mike Lee build that I won in a Christmas auction on AS a few years ago and it has been run ALOT. It was my first race chain so I ran it on everything before I knew better and then after I had him re-sharpen it I ran it on a few race saws before sending it home for a year with @Redfin to use in building my MS661 and he had touched it up a couple times. When it got back to me I am pretty sure I asked Shawn to touch it up for me so it has been well travelled. I cut a 2.73 and a 3.3 and Cole did 2.86 and 2.64.

Believe it or not the last chain is the one we chose for him because it felt the fastest and looked the fastest but....
According to the video the second chain was on average .48 seconds faster when Cole cut with it, that's an eternity in racing and we will get the chains swapped out soon.

 
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Definitive Dave

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Duane(Pa)

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There are of course plenty of ways to pick a chain for racing at a GTG or a sanctioned event with prize money. Many guys just read a lot online and then make the best chain they think they can :)
The internet is dumb, it doesn't know anything about your saw, bar, sprocket, cutting style or the wood you will be racing in. Most of the advice for square filing is either just applicable to work chains or is directly contradicted somewhere else on the internet :)
There are a few Good ways to pick a chain for racing.
1. having a great chain builder who is familiar with your equipment and cutting style build you a chain is a great option that may not be available to everyone.
2. making a pair of duplicate chains and make small adjustments to them one at a time so that you can go back to the better chain when you go to far is a time consuming but viable option if you are comfortable with all the facets of race chain building.
3. chain testing and choosing from amongst a selection of race chains is a great option but you absolutely need to video and time all the chains to know what is really fastest....

Cole came over yesterday to run saws and specifically to get a race chain for two of his saws he plans to run at GTGs soon. We started with his ECSaws built Dolmar 6400 converted to a 7900 with a gutted muffler and the higher limit coil.

We started with a good middle of the road slightly aggressive workchain done on the grinder only by Shawn Nolder. I cut a 2.63 and 2.73, Cole cut a 2.53 and 2.54 with a 2.84 upcut between them.

We then moved on to a John Reilly chain that I have had for awhile, some of the teeth are pretty uneven and I haven't run it much. I cut a 2.7, 2.46 and 2.47. Cole cut a 2.2, 2.23 and 2.23 which ended up being great times for a 5 cube in 10"x10" Poplar, but.....even though e knew it was faster than the prior ground chain we went ahead and tested another chain next.

I decided to run an actual Shawn Nolder race chain that he built specifically for my 084, it's not the one I run now but would give us a great idea of the limits of the saw. I cut a 2.53 and a 2.63 and Cole did a 2.47 and 2.4, so we turned back to the rack of chains for something a tad less aggressive :)

We opted to run the Play Chain that Cole had built and that we had run earlier in the day on both the MS462 and my stock 372xp. I cut a 3.07 and a 3.34 while Cole cut a pair of 2.53s. Really respectable numbers considering the competition.

The last chain we tried is a Mike Lee build that I won in a Christmas auction on AS a few years ago and it has been run ALOT. It was my first race chain so I ran it on everything before I knew better and then after I had him re-sharpen it I ran it on a few race saws before sending it home for a year with @Redfin to use in building my MS661 and he had touched it up a couple times. When it got back to me I am pretty sure I asked Shawn to touch it up for me so it has been well travelled. I cut a 2.73 and a 3.3 and Cole did 2.86 and 2.64.

Believe it or not the last chain is the one we chose for him because it felt the fastest and looked the fastest but....
According to the video the second chain was on average .48 seconds faster when Cole cut with it, that's an eternity in racing and we will get the chains swapped out soon.

VCT (very cool thread) Thanks for posting!
 

Definitive Dave

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I will get it back to you Mike, i would love to have it touched up and ready to go again, that chain has cut more cant wood than any other in my arsenal :) It was a revelation in how chains work for me and fired up my addiction.
 

Hedgerow

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I will get it back to you Mike, i would love to have it touched up and ready to go again, that chain has cut more cant wood than any other in my arsenal :) It was a revelation in how chains work for me and fired up my addiction.
How much tooth is left on it?
Pics of your derping?
 

Time's Standing Stihl

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I'd like to know the difference in sprocket size selection.
7-11 3/8
7127f5f39d9db779906f65bcacbe06e7.jpg
 

Sty57

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That particular saw had a 8 on it. I have a tendency to lean towards an 8 for some reason. Gives me the ability to lean on it a little if needed.
That's what I was thinking Cole.
Is it better to push or let the chain feed or both?
Balancing act between the 2?
 
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