Stihl M-Tronic Version 3.0

[RI Chevy]

Lol. Very true Ryan. [emoji106]

 

[huskyboy]

I do notice if you are felling trees you don’t get the saw as hot as you do bucking firewood. If I have a cord of logs laid out I’m on the throttle 90% time with little idle between. I’ve had a 385 that had few broken fins start to slowly lean out/overheat bucking on a hot day (whop whop whop uneven idle), and I had to retune it fatter. I bet the little climbing saws don’t get that hot limbing and idling a lot in between to burn off the rich mix.

 

[huskyboy]

I don’t think I would use a saw with broken fins for milling, which is probably the hottest your gonna get a saw if I had to take a guess. I would definitely be using richer than 50:1 for that.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Here's a video of the v3.0 calibration routine. Our available stop watch app didn't work and we ended up with an extra WOT phase that wasn't necessary and I think it actually messed up the top end tune a little. Don't know if it will adjust itself after a few more cuts like the v2.0 software generally would, or if it should be calibrated again. Thing about trying it again is whether or not it's even possible once the saw has already been 'set up' unless the coil is somehow set back to its default setting..., which presumably would require the MDG1 setup. Maybe just going through the steps again from a cold start would work? Would certainly like to know the answer to that from someone who knows for sure now that I'm familiar with the process. Pretty slick and stupid simple, actually. Perhaps one of our European friends could post up some additional TI's or owner's manuals for the complete v3.0 setup process? Domestic Stihl dealers don't have anything on this stuff afaik. Distributors are still even in the dark (or won't say what they don't want us to know about all this, yet.)

Anyway here ya go...

Sorry about the lousy camera work at the beginning. Was trying to get the stop watch re-started before just giving up on that and guessing on the times. Seems fairly clear that the times aren't super critical as long as you have a consistent idle for 30 seconds or so before going to phase two which pretty much tells you when it's finished by going back down to that intermediate speed after doing the WOT thing for 8~10 seconds.

 

[DND 9000]

Thanks for the video. Cool to see what it does while calibrating.

 

[RI Chevy]

Anyone know where the hard reset button is on a 261? Just curious.

 

[sawmikaze]

Lol. Very true Ryan. [emoji106]

Everyone has a different perspective, no right or wrong.

That's mine/his.

I'm anal about my personal stuff which I take and use sometimes but I totally understand why he does what he does..it makes sense.

 

[huskyboy]

Anyone know where the hard reset button is on a 261? Just curious.

You thinking it needs a reset?

 

[RI Chevy]

No. Just trying to understand this mtronic stuff. Just in case. Lol

 

[huskyboy]

I wonder if these autotune/mtronic need reset once in a while when there modded as if they to try to “save” themselves from the “airleak”. Or to reset the settings so they are set up to compensate better?

 

[RI Chevy]

Not sure.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Anyone know where the hard reset button is on a 261? Just curious.

Start it cold and leave it in the "start" position for 90 seconds and then force the switch to the stop position without blipping the throttle. This supposedly clears the memory in the coil the same as wiping it with the MDG-1. Ran across this a little while ago while searching for the v3.0 reset info. Not sure how forcing the switch shaft to 'off' with the high idle engaged is possible without blipping the trigger, but actually just saw a vid of it being done. Then just go through the later version of the v2.0 calibration routine to get back to operational.

 

[RI Chevy]

OK. I just read that. TY

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

I wonder if these autotune/mtronic need reset once in a while when there modded as if they to try to “save” themselves from the “airleak”. Or to reset the settings so they are set up to compensate better?

I've read they should be reset whenever there's a significant mechanical change, (new top end, muffler mod, etc.), major change in fuel mix/octane, large differences in operational elevation, basically anything you'd re-tune a normal saw for. Would it compensate for these changes without being reset? Up to a point, yes, but not necessarily for the extremes it may encounter with dramatic changes. At least that's more of what I've read today. Makes sense. These things can only accommodate so wide a range of conditions without a hit to performance. It's still a carbureted system any way you look at it.

 

[Greg Newman]

Do you need to do the calibration straight outta the box for any of the m-tronic saws or just when it’s needed?

Does the 201tc have m-tronic?

 

[sawmikaze]

Do you need to do the calibration straight outta the box for any of the m-tronic saws or just when it’s needed?

Does the 201tc have m-tronic?

The m-tronic 201t is the best version yet, better than the carbed model..even with the half assed updates they put on it before it went m-tronic.

 

[huskyboy]

Do you need to do the calibration straight outta the box for any of the m-tronic saws or just when it’s needed?

Does the 201tc have m-tronic?

I would take a guess if you ran a autotune/mtronic stock for a while...then modded it, then it would be a good idea to do it after modding it?

 

[Greg Newman]

The m-tronic 201t is the best version yet, better than the carbed model..even with the half assed updates they put on it before it went m-tronic.

I bought one the other day and it runs fine right outta the box.

 

[sawmikaze]

I would take a guess if you ran a autotune/mtronic stock for a while...then modded it, then it would be a good idea to do it after modding it?

Sorry for the *s-wordty quality... computer 201s get down after you give them a little extra sauce.

 

[RI Chevy]

Nothing wrong with that Ryan.